Cracked Oil Pan to go along with my warped Head!

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rockclmbr said:
Jester,

How did you get that so clean?? Did you sandblast the entire pan?? Looks nice, and excellent repair!

Well, when the 80 went down and I knew I had some major repairs to do, I invested in a 40 gallon parts washer. A 3:1 mixture of water and concentrated Simple Green went into the tank. The oil pan spent about 4 days in there with a hot water rinse and scrub each night. I did glass bead the area where the weld was made, but the pan mostly came clean in the degreaser. I've spent a lot of time rinsing the pan with air and water to be sure I got all the abrasive out. A very thin coat of "Alumiblast" (a quick drying paint with aluminum in it) was applied to keep it looking good. Ironically, it was not until the Alumiblast went on that I noticed the crack as the paint was sucked into it - kind of like a poor mans magnaflux for non ferrus parts.
 
Got a shipment from American Toyota today...
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Wow. That's a gorgeous hunk o' high end alloy. It's cruiser porn.

Is there a process to mate the cam journals with your worn-in camshaft or is it assumed that the clearances are correct? In other words, will you plasti-gage the journals or is this just a bolt it together deal by the machine shop?

DougM
 
at 220k with a noisy water pump bearing, this thread makes ma all paranoid all over - arghhh :) maybe I will do the water pump before it dies, ...
 
IdahoDoug said:
Is there a process to mate the cam journals with your worn-in camshaft or is it assumed that the clearances are correct? In other words, will you plasti-gage the journals or is this just a bolt it together deal by the machine shop?

DougM


Doug,

That is a great question. My assumption is that most of the wear is on the aluminum cam journals and not the steel camshafts. The new head came with matched journals installed on it. I suspect that if I were to plasti-gage the old head and cams I would find more clearance than I would with the new head and the same cams. The FSM describes how to check the camshaft journal oil clearance and the camshaft thrust clearance and gives both a normal range and a maximum clearance. If it is found to be above maximum, replacement of the camshaft and/or bearing cap & cylinder head are the recommended action. I suspect that with my new head & bearing caps I will be in the correct range with my old cams, but I am taking everything to the machine shop for them to check out. As far as breaking in the old cams to the new journals I'm not sure what I can do other than putting some good assembly lube on there and change the oil very soon.
 
I'm know I am suffering from a case of "While you are in there..." syndrome, but I had to replace the power steering cooler when I saw the corrosion on it. Toyota didn't put a great finish on it to protect it from east coast road salt. Seemed like the time to fix it.
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Jester said:
I put this together to keep the valve train components organized.


Beauty!

You should make those and I can include one with every gasket set ;)
 
Landtank – you should have called the phone number! My wife might have answered and convinced you to come finish what I started! Three months since my last post & almost five since the 80 turned belly up…I am the world’s slowest mechanic. Almost had to go to marriage consuling – she missed her truck! Great news though – I fired it up yesterday. Had one leak at the rear heater connection behind the EGR. I tried to clamp ¾” hose were ½” belonged. Today I fixed that and let it run for close to an hour. So far, so good. Need to get somebody to come over and help me put the hood on and I’ll give it some short test drives. I am so paranoid right now.
 
I put the whole assembly together on the bench, like the FSM recommends. If I had it to do all over again, I’d follow Doug’s advice and leave the intake and PITA wiring harness in the truck. I wanted to clean & inspect as much as possible so I did it the hard way. I had no idea what I was getting myself into.
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These are not views you see every day. The PHH clamp ended up hitting the block so I had to take it off and experience the pain of tightening it from below.
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It’s nice to be able to borrow tools from work! 60 to 300 ft-lb Proto Torque Wrench.

This is how I torqued the harmonic to the 305 foot pounds. My SST was really simple, 2 x 2 x ¼” angle with a single hole. It wedged against the socket and frame nicely. Word of caution, don’t try this with 1 x 1 x 1/8” angle – it will yield around 170 foot pounds.
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This picture is dedicated to CruiserDan. I would have never completed this project without his help.
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Total damage was around $2,800 in parts and machine work and included the following:

1 04112-66035 Gasket Kit
1 90099-14118 O-Ring
1 25627-66010 Gasket, EGR
6 90919-01176 Plug, Spark
1 15785-66010 Gasket, Oil
1 16100-69325 Water Pump Assembly
1 16261-66040 Hose, Water
1 27370-75060 Holder Assembly
13 90116-10169 Bolt, Stud
13 90179-10128 Nut
1 99332-10919-83 Belt, V
1 90916-02353-83 Belt, V, Fan
1 Clean & Calibrate Injector
1 11101-69107 Head Sub-Assembly
1 96761-24042 O-Ring
1 96761-24022 O-Ring
1 90311-52022 Seal
1 11328-66020 Gasket, Ti
1 15147-66020 Gasket, Oi
1 90430-27001 Gasket
1 15188-66020 Gasket, Oi
1 15134-17010 Gasket
2 00295-00103 FIPG Oil
1 78180-60280 Cable Assy
1 44420-60221 Cooler Ass
1 74453-60060 Bar, Battery
1 91652-G0820 Bolt, w/Washer
1 82819-60040 Grommet
1 90916-03117 Thermostat
1 16346-66020 Gasket, Th
1 16401-54750 Cap Sub-As
1 12204-35040 Valve Sub
1 90480-18001 Grommet
1 23300-69045 Filter Ass
7 15183-66020 S009 Screw (Oil Pump Cover)
3 Toyota Red Coolant
Reassemble New Head
Clean Old Head
Adjust Valve Lash
10 BR-9406 Liner Clamp
30 BR-9410 Liner Clamp
10 BR-9428 Liner Clamp
1 90406-08011 Union
1 90406-08011 Union
2 90406-17007 Bolt, Stud
10 92112-60818 Bolt, w/Washer
1 16264-66021 Hose, Water
9' 5/8" Heater Hose
2' 1/4" Fuel Line
6' 5/16" Fuel Line
2' 3/8" Fuel Line
1 16210-66020 Coupling
4 94180-40600 Nut, Lock
1 16603-66010 Pulley Sub
1 88440-26090 Pulley Assembly
1 96721-19010 O-Ring, Oil Dipstick
 
I think so. Been so long since I heard it run I kind of lost my reference point. It was a beautiful sound though.

I still need to put the timing light on it (its at my dad's). I just set it to the clean spot where the bolt was before.
 

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