Cracked Frame Plate Template

[jellis]

I have mine set at 6, half way, for DD. It almost entirely eliminates any "incipient shimmies" that always were the beginning of DW in my rig. I swapped to the Nittos prior to the stabilizer and it completely eliminated my DW, including while having my toe-in over 1" out (YES, 1"!) after replacing my bent tie-rod. That mostly ruined the front set prior to initial rotation, then I rotated after correcting and it's still just fine--now I'm years-in without a rebalance on these tires and not a single DW event!

Personally at this point I'd do tires, then stabilizer, then other components. I chased mine the other way around (bushings, EVERYTHING) and nothing helped. Although now it's sure stable and solid!

The rear bracket is definitely awesome and helps with stability. Watching undercarriage videos of DW, basically the entire frame starts oscillating over both the front and rear ends. All additional stability helps. If you tow I'd consider it a requirement.

 

[Jasonazx]

I have mine set at 6, half way, for DD. It almost entirely eliminates any "incipient shimmies" that always were the beginning of DW in my rig. I swapped to the Nittos prior to the stabilizer and it completely eliminated my DW, including while having my toe-in over 1" out (YES, 1"!) after replacing my bent tie-rod. That mostly ruined the front set prior to initial rotation, then I rotated after correcting and it's still just fine--now I'm years-in without a rebalance on these tires and not a single DW event!

Personally at this point I'd do tires, then stabilizer, then other components. I chased mine the other way around (bushings, EVERYTHING) and nothing helped. Although now it's sure stable and solid!

The rear bracket is definitely awesome and helps with stability. Watching undercarriage videos of DW, basically the entire frame starts oscillating over both the front and rear ends. All additional stability helps. If you tow I'd consider it a requirement.

I get a light oscillation/shimmy when turning slightly around a curve, and it will shimmy/shake when I hit a bump. It returns to normal afterwards. Somewhere between 30-45mph as I’m accelerating I’ll get a light shake as well. Otherwise it seems to be good all other times, haha! I don’t have the full on wobble like I’ve seen in videos but I’m wondering if it would if I removed the ome steering stabilizer.

 

[jellis]

Yes it will help. We just discussed this in a stabilizer-specific thread, you'll find it very worth reading I think:

Steering Stabilizer. Which one is King ?

Switched from an old OME (no idea when PO put it on but it felt equal both ways so I guess it was still OK?) to the new Dobinson's Adjustable Steering Damper/Stabilizer (thanks to @Delta VS ). To those who say a damper makes no difference, you should try an adjustable damper! Sure you might...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ScribeForce3FE]

I purchased a 1992 FJ80 completely bone stock with 115k (a while back) at which point drove and felt fine. After some time I started my journey of doing a maintenance baseline along with suspension upgrades and that's when the infamous DW appeared. I installed a Slinky 3in intermediate stage 1 kit, Toyota 2010 4R Trail Edition wheelset, and Mastercraft 35x12.5r17s. At the time of purchasing the truck I had replaced the front stabilizer because it was leaking with a Rancho because that's the best one the local auto parts store had available. Then I continued to inspect more stuff and replaced a lot more stuff. Did all new Toyota bushings, rear Delta (3in lift correction) panhard bracket, front Slee panhard adjustable link, Slee castor correction plates (I believe castor to be at 5* I'll have to double check), and Toyota front/rear driveshaft u-joints (these all had significant play). Inspected the DS splines as well. Also, messed with changing the front drive shaft from in-phase to out-of-phase and there was no change. IIRC, the 91-92s came in-phase and was later changed. The tie rods were all replaced (unknown brand but likely from AutoZone) and they're all very tight. Tightened both front wheel bearings as well. All this and still didn't resolve the DW that was occurring between 35-45. I started looking for cracks on the frame but did not see anything visible (as it's tough to spot cracks through the frame paint) around the steering box, frame side panhard mount, or the crossmember that connects both frame rails. I ended up going to another tire shop and had them rebalance and rotate, and fresh alignment. They said that one of the front tires did not balance perfectly and attributed it to a "potential flat spot on the tire" and that one is now on the rear. I have to say that after identifying the so called "bad tire" and placed on the rear the truck drives so much better. It's night and day better but I still feel some vibrations on the steering wheel driving 50-55mph now and if I keep going it doesn't get any worse but remains consistently there. Played around with tire pressures but no change. The truck also seems to wonder a little traveling at 50+mph and body roll is noticeable on curves. I've been running without a front sway bar since day one simply because after the lift I left it off to paint. How big of a role does the front sway bar play on the 80? After reading this thread I was not aware of hub vs lug centric balancing and now think I'll need to get another round of balancing done to see if that "flat spot" (I could not see anything myself) is corrected and steering vibrations are further improved. I did do a rear axle swap and have not touched the brakes (vibrations/shaking when braking) or knuckles. Not sure if my issues are steering box related (perhaps a rebuild?), a crappy steering stabilizer, knuckle rebuild (already plan on doing so), too much castor 5*, or a possible bad tire though may get ruled by a lug centric rebalance (5th gen 4R wheels). Thinking I'll take a pry bar and check the axle side panhard bolt for play as some have stated that could cause vibrations. All in all the biggest and only change came from the tire rotation.

 

[Darije]

Here is my template. Measurements are in millimeters. I made mine of 5mm steel. You can do fine tunning. It is better to cut here and there than to add