Not an option
Cracked Block 1FZ-FE
- Thread starter Ppleasants
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Takes a bit of skill to properly weld:
Tech Tips: Repairing a Crack in Cast Iron
Welding A Diesel Cast Iron Engine Block with Muggy Weld 77 Arc Electrode
Tech Tips: Repairing a Crack in Cast Iron
Welding A Diesel Cast Iron Engine Block with Muggy Weld 77 Arc Electrode
I bet chamfering the hole and smoothing the surfaces well would go a ways toward prevention.
Welding on it is risky. It is not so much about welding skill and what you weld it with as it is about the rate of cooling of any ferrous material with more than 0.3% carbon. Unless you can control and slow the rate of cooling between about 1,900 and 1,400 F, you will have some brittle iron carbide (cementite) and Martensite in the heat affected zone (HAZ). It needs to cool at about 25 - 50 degrees per hour to avoid iron carbide and Martensite formation. It might crack during cooling or later in response to vibration. Iron carbide is not easily machinable, so you may also have problems grinding it out if it fails. Stainless filler won't form iron carbide in the weld bead (so it will be machinable), but it won't prevent carbide formation in the HAZ. Stitching pins are faster and easier than it sounds. You use a drilling and tapping jig to make the holes spaced evenly. Check out some of the videos at Lock N Stitch. Brazing is low risk because the metal won't need to be heated above 1,400F.
Thanks for the hint @Grandlooser ! I appreciate it
I know that in the world of heavy equipment, construction, mining, oil and gas, even in the military, works such as the one you’re suggesting, is often performed in the field. Personally, I don’t have this kind of welding skill...or stitching
In the case of this particular engine, my guess is that it would have to come out from the truck to correctly perform such skillful job. In such a case-taking the engine out-I would rather pursue other avenues
Like so many of you, I’m quite attached to my cruiser (friends and family often said jokingly that I’ll be buried in the cruiser after my passing). My wife’s GX is silky smooth, capable, efficient, equally reliable, etc...but does not talk to me like the 80. This vehicle, IMO, was the pinnacle of an era. It’s character is unique and for this old fart she’s a forever keeper.
So, for the time being, I’ll follow @flintknapper advice and bestow my OCD with a good local IPA or Indian Pale while I investigate a permanent solution
Cheers!
I know that in the world of heavy equipment, construction, mining, oil and gas, even in the military, works such as the one you’re suggesting, is often performed in the field. Personally, I don’t have this kind of welding skill...or stitching
In the case of this particular engine, my guess is that it would have to come out from the truck to correctly perform such skillful job. In such a case-taking the engine out-I would rather pursue other avenues
Like so many of you, I’m quite attached to my cruiser (friends and family often said jokingly that I’ll be buried in the cruiser after my passing). My wife’s GX is silky smooth, capable, efficient, equally reliable, etc...but does not talk to me like the 80. This vehicle, IMO, was the pinnacle of an era. It’s character is unique and for this old fart she’s a forever keeper.
So, for the time being, I’ll follow @flintknapper advice and bestow my OCD with a good local IPA or Indian Pale while I investigate a permanent solution
Cheers!
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Afternoon Mud 
I'm checking back in, has anyone had any long-term success with removing and replacing the freeze plug and or adding? Adding JB weld/sealant considering we're moving the freeze plug this weekend and replacing it, but it seems like a lot of work if it just going to leak through the hairline crack anyway.
It sure does look like a lot of
just to have a leak again.
The last picture is about 1 year and 10,000 mi of coolant weep. I never saw my coolant go down so I'm tempted to just leave it alone until I order new factory short block and build a motor maybe next year.
I'm checking back in, has anyone had any long-term success with removing and replacing the freeze plug and or adding? Adding JB weld/sealant considering we're moving the freeze plug this weekend and replacing it, but it seems like a lot of work if it just going to leak through the hairline crack anyway.
It sure does look like a lot of
just to have a leak again.The last picture is about 1 year and 10,000 mi of coolant weep. I never saw my coolant go down so I'm tempted to just leave it alone until I order new factory short block and build a motor maybe next year.
Well, RIGHT NOW is the time to order a new short block!Afternoon Mud
I'm checking back in, has anyone had any long-term success with removing and replacing the freeze plug and or adding? Adding JB weld/sealant considering we're moving the freeze plug this weekend and replacing it, but it seems like a lot of work if it just going to leak through the hairline crack anyway.
It sure does look like a lot of
The last picture is about 1 year and 10,000 mi of coolant weep. I never saw my coolant go down so I'm tempted to just leave it alone until I order new factory short block and build a motor maybe next year.
View attachment 2959840
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DEAL ENDED-Great deals on parts through Toyota (March 2022)
forum.ih8mud.com
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
It's head gasket time and everything else I can touch....,.... For previous maintenance.
Cleaned up and replaced my freeze plug with some JB weld I'll report back if it holds.
Cleaned up and replaced my freeze plug with some JB weld I'll report back if it holds.
@BillyGoatMTB How did it hold up? I just pulled the engine out of my 80 to do the timing chain slipper + head gasket and found the same crack... Lock N Stitch quoted me $1200 - $1500 to fix it.
Tried drilling the end of the crack and stopped, got cold feet...don't want to make it any worse.
Tried drilling the end of the crack and stopped, got cold feet...don't want to make it any worse.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
My little leak held after my rebuild for about 2 months and then it slowly started weeping again nothing major I think after about 5,000 miles the coolant tank dropped maybe a quarter of an inch.
I love the fact that I burn no oil now it's incredible!
I'm going to run with what I got for a while she runs like an absolute top and I'm nothing but happy I also advance my timing to 7° and I could not believe the difference this made.
As far as my crack I live in the Bay area California I got the similar quote 1200-1400 from Lock and stitch.
I roll the dice my leak came back but all along I planned to get a brand new Factory Short block head and cams. The PO full blown overheated the motor and was very honest when I bought it which I appreciated.
My buddy who owns a race shop in Suisun took 15,000 of an inch off my head and explain to me to not use the head with any other block they need to stay together.
Anyway full circle I plan on ordering a short block here in the next month or two before they become unavailable. I haven't heard they're going to I just would hate for that to happen and there be a rush on them.
My plans to keep running this motor for a while maybe a year or two and in that time source a new head and camps $3k ish
Then it's something happens or when I'm ready I can put the short block on an engine stand and begin the dismantling / build process,
I stitched it and I think it's going to be fine. (if not, well, damn!) I was able to borrow a stitching kit from a machine shop, and lock-n-stitch themselves "only" wanted $400ish for a full DIY kit. I did not dive into the freeze plug bore as I don't trust myself to repair that correctly. I did the crack that started forming below the freeze plug bore and was making its way down to the block drain.
Video:
I made a youtube video on it
Pic:
Video:
I made a youtube video on it
Pic:
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Now that it’s been a few years since your fix, how has it held up? Really appreciate the video, super helpful as I’ve got the same issue with mine!