cost efficient power brakes? (1 Viewer)

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I have a 69 fj40 and would like to add power brakes. I'm sure there are many different options out there. Which would you guts suggest with cost and effectiveness in mind?
 
Having currently owned a 69' for 17 years now, I can tell you that there's no super easy way to do this. To my knowledge, there is not a booster out there that will simply "bolt up" to your firewall. In addition that that, your 69' has the oddball 9mm flare nuts on all the brake lines.

I'm using a small diameter brake booster from an 85' Toyota mini truck. You can use any booster 79'-85'. It WON'T bolt up though and you'll likely have to trim/cut part of the sheet metal firewall brace to clear the booster. Maybe someone makes an adapter mount now but I had a make an adapter plate for the firewall. Your current brake master cylinder is held on with three bolts in a triangle pattern and the booster will have four bolts in a square pattern.
 
Here's a pic. 85' booster, FJ80 master and stock clutch master cylinder. It'll fit but there's not an abundance of room
IMG_1013.JPG
 
My question is have you gone thru your brake? If you haven't just adding a booster probably won't solve all your problems. Once I when completely thru the brakes on my 68 they worked fine. Can lock all four wheels and doesn't pull to either side. If you determined to add a booster I won't waste my time unless you go all the way and add disc brakes up front and switch to dual circuit 10MM brake lines.
 
My question is have you gone thru your brake? If you haven't just adding a booster probably won't solve all your problems. Once I when completely thru the brakes on my 68 they worked fine. Can lock all four wheels and doesn't pull to either side. If you determined to add a booster I won't waste my time unless you go all the way and add disc brakes up front and switch to dual circuit 10MM brake lines.

I went through them a few years back. They work fine. I just want something with a little more holding power on steep grades.
 
I have a 69 also and got a booster assembly from BTB. I had to cut the firewall brace out and cut out the pedal assembly and replace them with a newer bolt in pedal assembly. Also replaced the brake lines to the 10mm. Now have power disk brakes on both front and back. Also changed the axles out to some newer off of a 74 60 series.

Right Rear Disc Brake.jpg


Right Front Disc Brake.jpg


Power Brake Booster.jpg
 
One last thing, my conversion did not require swapping pedals or anything like that. I have all the OEM pedals and whatnot in the truck. That being said, the BTB stuff above is incredibly top notch and high quality. All readily available GM parts too. Either way, you're going to be trimming on your firewall though.
 
I also have a 69 FJ40, recently purchased. The PO swapped the front axle out with one from a 81 FJ40 w/disc (rear is still drum). He also has swapped in a 2f w/ a 4 speed. The brakes are horrible - the master cyl will not hold pressure but the rest of the brake system is in good shape. Does anyone know of a master cylinder made for disc and drums that would bolt up. Unfort power brakes seem out of the question, there is no room as the carb is in the way. I have heard rumors of angled booster/master to clear the engine in older Fords or GMs for power brake conversions.....?
 
Early 70s econoline vans had the master mounted sideways under the hood but really would not help trying to add power brakes in your truck
 
I see in Tugcapt1's post that the PO had managed to swap in a 2 circuit manual brake master from something else.
This seems like a good solution.
As I collect part for rebuilding a 1970 FJ40 I've been looking for a suitable 2 circuit brake master that could be adapted to fit.


There was a period of time in the late 1960's before power brakes became the norm that manufacturers were transitioning from single circuit systems to dual. Cars of the day were big & heavy and many had front disk brakes.
Here is an article about single circuit manual to two circuit manual swaps for drum and disk brakes for American cars.
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hmn/2010/05/Master-Cylinders/3184381.html


I was looking for one with a flange that could be milled/drilled or adapted to the 3 hole mounting pattern on the firewall of the 40.
It is specifically not an option to use a master by itself that was designed to be paired with a booster.
A 1" cylinder is needed and one that was originally designed to feed all drums or disks/drums depending on the setup.
No answer yet but I'm looking.
 
I tried the power brake conversion on my '70 FJ40. JTOutfitters has an adapter which clears the firewall brace and bolts up to the existing holes in the firewall. I found a booster from a Toyota mini truck and made the install. The brakes worked very well but the Aisin master cylinder was beside the carb and left little to no room between them. I went back to manual disc brakes.
 
What they said; Go with aftermarket 4 wheel disc brakes, forget the booster, you will have holding power. I went the opposite way, I eliminated my power booster on the '71. Never missed it personally. All disk brakes....Best upgrade ever for safety, stopping power and minimal maintenance.
 
A late 70's master is dual circuit, and designed for front disc, rear drum (I have an FJ40, and an FJ55, and the masters are the same). If you want power assist, the early 70's boosters are excellent, and not so large as to interfere with everything else under the hood.
 
I went with a booster from a GEO Metro. If you have the stock engine your biggest problem will be a booster and master that is short enough not to interfere with the carb. I re did all the lines to go with 10mm readily available line nuts, I had to cut the rib away on my firewall and drill new holes to mount it. I also replaced my axles at the same time with some 1978 disc brake axles. Even without the booster vacuum hooked up yet, the worked much better then the old single circuit drum brakes. Not to mention while the old lines looked good and held pressure, when removing them I found out how brittle and corroded on the inside they were. Thank god I chose to replace those lines now that I know how weak they truly were.

dscf5056-jpg.528318
 

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