thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Probably fine. Maybe don’t run the AC and swap the rad soon. Bring enough water for the truck in case you need it.
Cooling Situation...Is This Normal? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Tachycardic
- Start date
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At a minimum, your radiator is defective and will leak again.
engine is fine. No question.
The 80 series radiator has plastic tanks (upper/lower) and aluminum core. The Toyota radiator's start to come apart with high mileage.
They make an all brass/copper version. You can get a Denso version at Rockauto here (LINK) Here is a rockauto 5% discount code 143556395132527731 Just copy into the "how did you hear about us" box.
Also, a new radiator; even a repaired radiator will push your coolant running pressure back to stock PSI. This means your hoses (pesky hose under the intake too), radiator cap, water pump might react poorly to the new found pressure in the system and fail when you least expect it. Good time to fix those crunchy hoses.
The 80 series radiator has plastic tanks (upper/lower) and aluminum core. The Toyota radiator's start to come apart with high mileage.
They make an all brass/copper version. You can get a Denso version at Rockauto here (LINK) Here is a rockauto 5% discount code 143556395132527731 Just copy into the "how did you hear about us" box.
Also, a new radiator; even a repaired radiator will push your coolant running pressure back to stock PSI. This means your hoses (pesky hose under the intake too), radiator cap, water pump might react poorly to the new found pressure in the system and fail when you least expect it. Good time to fix those crunchy hoses.
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What mph were you doing?
I've found my motor works up some heat going up grades <40mph.
You've got a full load there, so it can really lug the motor.
Turning off O/D and/or putting it in 2nd helps quite a bit. Bring those rpms up a bit.
I would change out the coolant and road test before your trip, see how it goes.
Seems like the new, cheap oem replacement radiators are a good idea for improved cooling.
I've found my motor works up some heat going up grades <40mph.
You've got a full load there, so it can really lug the motor.
Turning off O/D and/or putting it in 2nd helps quite a bit. Bring those rpms up a bit.
I would change out the coolant and road test before your trip, see how it goes.
Seems like the new, cheap oem replacement radiators are a good idea for improved cooling.
This assumes the 'best case scenario'. What IF you have an unexpected medical emergency or the like?
I wouldn't even consider taking my family out in a vehicle that I didn't have every confidence in.
Pretty sure those petroglyphs will still be there once you have your Cruiser repaired and it is in KNOWN working order.
Anything less is irresponsible Sir.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Was running 10-15mph the whole way up. I've been commuting in the LC daily since. Topped it off once with 16oz of coolant about a week ago and haven't touched it since. Engine is running well and just passed smog. Temps have been around 190-196F with in and around town driving in 110F temps. I'm going to replace the radiator, but covid19 ops are keeping me busy. Looking at the denso unit, but have to do more research. Truck will have to wait a little longer...
Did you do that in D, 4hi, OD on?
If you're fully loaded w people and cargo at that speed, try 2nd, OD off or just put it in 4Lo, D
I think you'll find it much more favorable to your motor temps.
I just had the same thing show up on my 1995. I am going to fix one thing at a time to see what fixes it. I am starting with a new radiator cap and will report back. My truck only has 105k miles on it though, so I am curious as to what might be causing it. Hoping it is just the cap or a coolant flush that will fix it for now.
I'm thinking fan clutch is going out so fan's not pulling in air.
Engine heats up
Cap tries to vent but can't, overpressures the radiator, blowing the seal, drops to ambient pressure, everything boils, makes a mess of things.
This WILL repeat itself.
Also check fan belt tension. There is a famous overheating thread here that the OP ended up changing almost EVERYTHING related to the cooling system until he decided to test his belt tension one day....... Tightened his belts and the thread ended.
Engine heats up
Cap tries to vent but can't, overpressures the radiator, blowing the seal, drops to ambient pressure, everything boils, makes a mess of things.
This WILL repeat itself.
Also check fan belt tension. There is a famous overheating thread here that the OP ended up changing almost EVERYTHING related to the cooling system until he decided to test his belt tension one day....... Tightened his belts and the thread ended.
6% and 92° = 2nd gear if you want to be cool
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #31
I did it in D and OD off. I won't do that again--thanks for the tip! I didn't even think about shifting down because the engine was performing well. In fact, the only reason why I knew it was overheating was because the AC cut out.
Does that really keep it cooler? Rather than just keeping it in “D”?
Should, higher rpm (up to a point is good ) keeps the engine in its power-band, fan is turning faster, water pump moving more coolant (of course engine is turning faster too...but not lugging so much).
good to know. Thank you.
Yes, you were lugging the motor. Turned your engine into a good home furnace 
You should do much better when you properly gear down. Try 4Lo/D - you can still get going pretty quick in 4Lo and it will be much easier on your engine and tranny.
You should do much better when you properly gear down. Try 4Lo/D - you can still get going pretty quick in 4Lo and it will be much easier on your engine and tranny.
Tachycardic
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
So I rolled the dice and bought a used brass radiator for cheap online (Cruiser Parts). It arrived today, but I think it’s damaged along the bottom. I’m no expert, but I’m pretty sure the tubing should not be bent like that. Is it repairable?
Had it not been bent fully 90° I might try to straighten it out....BUT I don't think you'd ever get to be round again. The tubing has been flattened as a result of the bend which will impede the flow of the ATF. I wouldn't use it.
I went with a solid all metal rad from amazon. A little pricey but I dont go cheap on cooling parts.
Spectra Premium CU1469 Complete Radiator
Spectra Premium CU1469 Complete Radiator
