Cooling Fluid Always Go Out From Engine (1 Viewer)

[David*BJ70]

Big question...

First, I have :

New radiator
New water pump with the gasket
New elbow gasket on the engine block
New thermostat
New thermostat gasket
Nothing seem to leak.

So, when I drive my cruiser on city raod, everything go fine. But when I drive it on the highway... IT LOST ALL THE COOLING FLUID BY THE OVERFLOW TUBE.

So all the cooling fluid go out and after the engine get hot.

Now, how can I figure this. For sure, no air in the system (I run the engine until the thermostat open, then make bubbles.). until no more cooling fluid go in.

I suppose 3 thing :

- maybe the fan cluct is no more good ( I don't feel resistance when it hot and I try to turn it) But, is the clutch fan make a big jod on the highway at fast speed ?

- maybe my radiator cap is not enough good or don't have the good resistance (by now, I have a 13psi) so because this, all the cooling fluid go out to much easy.

- Some one talk to me about the head gasket (... no ...!) How can I get a cooling problem with a engine gasket problem ?


I will start to fix the problem by buying a new clutch fan. Is I start by the good way ?

 

[cruiser_guy]

When you were driving was there white "smoke" out the back? That is a good indicator of "burning" coolant. That can also mean a cracked head or just a bad gasket. Pressure in the cylinders leaking out to the cooling jacket could also blow out the coolant though I haven't experienced that on a 'Cruiser yet.
As for the fan, thats more important in city driving than on the highway. The highway driving keeps air flowing over the rad all the time. I assume it's still cold in Quebec for a while yet!

 

[fjbj40]

sounds like head gasket....pressurized cooling system and forcing coolant past rad cap then overboard . ....or just a weak rad cap , not holding pressure and allowing coolant to flow overboard .
rad caps are cheap ! try it .
Daryl

 

[crushers]

do the rad cap first.
if that does not solve the problem then do a coolant pressure test, this will tell you if you have a cracked head, start cheap then go up from there.
cheers

 

[David*BJ70]

When you were driving was there white "smoke" out the back? That is a good indicator of "burning" coolant.

No white smoke at all.

As for the fan, thats more important in city driving than on the highway. The highway driving keeps air flowing over the rad all the time.

This what I'm thinking about... I will try the rad cap first... BTW some one know what is the PSI for a OEM rad cap ? I think I will buy it at Toyota to make sure... or mabey in NAPA if someone know the stock PSI

I assume it's still cold in Quebec for a while yet!

Oh no... today... a big 12C I get out my bermuda

Hope is not the cylinder gasket...

Thank you all

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

Oui oui, start with the rad cap. Then pressure test.
Bonne chance!

 

[Chang-kuao-lo]

OEM should be 13psi.

 

[David*BJ70]

sounds like head gasket....pressurized cooling system and forcing coolant past rad cap then overboard

OK... for the rad cap.

But let see if it worst (for sure, I'm not even what belive in that option ! )... so it pressurized the system, is that can occur only on highway ? or in all situation, like let the engine iddle or drive like a grandma ?

 

[cruiser_guy]

The cooling system gets pressurized because the coolant expands as it gets warm. It's irrelevant whether it's on the highway or in the city. It WON'T warm up just idling though. That's why there's an overflow tank and that's why when you take the rad cap off a hot engine you get water everywhere!

 

[David*BJ70]

I know I know about the physical fact. Warm = expand. I understand the principe and all it work... but only from the thermostat trought the water pump and passing by the radiator. In the engine ... I don't Know (yet)

I was simply figure if the cynlinder head gasket can let pass air (not really air... but something like that) in the cooling system. and this... at slow or high speed (motor sollicitation)

 

[silvercrusher]

I know this might sound silly but you put the thermostat in right way up oui. Also you might try pulling the t stat and refilling,try running without one. As I have had bad "new t-stats" in the past. Didn't you recently have another problem with cooling?

 

[silvercrusher]

PS have you checked your oil yet??????????????????????????????

 

[crushers]

well, in all the 3B engines i have worked on, i have yet to see a blown head gasket between the coolant passeges and the oil passeges. i have repanced quite a few because of oil leaks to the outside...
i will bet you will find it is not a head gasket.
your 13LB cap could be worn out allowing the coolant to escape too easily.
if the coolant is just disappearing then i will gamble that it is cracks between the valves. read $$$$
i highly doubt that the oil is contaminated.

 

[David*BJ70]

Didn't you recently have another problem with cooling?

oh yeah... but I think is the same since the beginning ... so I spend all that money since... and maybe is only the cap (but anyway, ... is now all new stuf and I will not have to change it again in a closer futur !).

- Yes, I check the oil.... the level is good and don't seem to get contamined

- No oil seem to get in the cooling fluid

- No oil seem to get out the engine by any place (by the inside or the outside of the engine)

So... if no white smoke, if good oil level, if no contamination of the cooling fluide... can I belive is not the head cylinder gasket ?

Today is sunday... no auto part shop open, so let speculated : Is it a good thing to change the rad cap for a stronger one. I mean a one with 14, 16 psi insted of a 13 psi (OEM). I just whant to know.

Waiting for your opinions.

 

[dieseldog]

silvercrusher asks a good question. If you were getting coolant into the engine past the head gasket, then more than likely your oil would have "waxy" crud in it. You would certainly be able to tell that things are amiss. Check it pronto or you'll soon have much worse problems to deal with.

 

[wesintl]

i will bet you will find it is not a head gasket.
if the coolant is just disappearing then i will gamble that it is cracks between the valves. read $$$$

I'm putting my money on a cracked head. Sorry.

On the bright side. order and allhead or toyota with a valve grind gasket kit and put it on. It's not a big job at all on a 3B. Fairly painless compared to gassers.

look under the oil cap or vavle cover for waxy gunk. When I did my 2f It was cracked and getting waxy build up but the head gasket was fine.

go to napa and get a combustion leak tester. it's only like $50 and will tell you what you most likey don't want to know.

Anyway, good luck.

 

[cruiser_guy]

When I had a cracked head on my old '84 there was no oil contamination or waxy buildup but it would drink a couple of gallons of water in a matter of 20 miles or so!

 

[David*BJ70]

Cracked head, Cracked head, Cracked head.... I don't want to belive that !

make my scare and tell me how much can I expect for this....(in CDN)

 

[lowenbrau]

BJ70s are the worlds worst rig to get the air out of. I don't believe you have done it yet.

Spend a Saturday making short trips to warm it up and then let it cool. Make sure the coolant reservoir is full and there is no leaks between it and the t-stat housing.

A new head will run you a little over $1000 from the dealer, pre cups 4x$400. Machining and labor to rebuild head... $500. Labor to remove and replace head =$500

or

Get an Aussie head c/w pre cups for about $800 to your door and add the rest as required.

A head replacement *is* a do it yourself job for most Cruiserheads.

 

[David*BJ70]

BJ70s are the worlds worst rig to get the air out of. I don't believe you have done it yet.

Spend a Saturday making short trips to warm it up and then let it cool. Make sure the coolant reservoir is full and there is no leaks between it and the t-stat housing.

We talk about head and when I read that (your post) I want to belive is still have air in the system. (even with all the care I give to remove the air).

So this is my action plan.

- Still try to removed all the air in the system. (is there a special tool in a rad shop how can force the air coming out ?)
- Buy a new rad cap.
- Anyway, if I have a craked head, is a pressur test will light up that kind of problem ? Or I only have to open the head to realise it ?



AND that must be the first question : is a little air (even a little little ) in the system can make all the cooling fluid going out ?