- Thread starter
- #41
Cooling a VVTi motor
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I live in Oklahoma, and the city I'm in had officially the hottest heat index in the country yesterday, which means high humidity which means really bad things for AC condensers/radiators. It is like this every summer, there are AC guys on the street I live on literally every day of the week. last year we had 60 days over 100F it sucks. I was having similar cooling problems, it would only slightly effect the coolant temp but sitting at a stop light the AC would take a dump.. I am pretty good with working on AC stuff So I got the gauges out and started diagnosing. At first my fan clutch seemed fine, but that was in my garage with the hood open. After a minute of idling with a warm engine the fan would go in to B-36 mode( ) my pressures and vent temps were all nominal. But when I took it outside the fan refused to go in to the fully engaged B-36 mode, so then I took the gauges off and tried it with the hood down thinking the air that was supposed to heat up the clutch was escaping, still, no engaging. So I replaced the fan clutch with a new aisin from amazon and all is well, AC is running perfectly and so are engine temps(always around 190). I would also highly recommend getting some condenser cleaner and really washing down your condenser, that specially designed stuff really does do a good job. I also got one of those skinny long brushes used for cleaning out drying machines and refrigerator condensers and scrubbed it in the gap between the condenser and radiator. it was amazing how much dust and all sorts of stuff was in there. the PO obviously parked under a pine tree so plenty of those were in there too. If you are still unsure about the fan clutch go out on this lovely hot AZ day (just saw the forecast for Desert Mountain) drive around and come home, open up the hood, and lightly stick your hand down(You can also use a news paper to stop it or something) and try to stop the fan, if its not making the B-36 noise I posted above(It really does sound like that) then your fan clutch is probably old and the silicone has sheared and isn't doing as good of a job as its supposed to. If you can stop the fan At ALL on a 108 degree day, your fan clutch is not doing its job right. Too many people think that a failed fan clutch is where the thing just starts idly spinning one day, but that's not correct, the shearing of silicone is a gradual process that will slowly degrade the fan's ability to engage properly, and in the climates we are in the effects will show sooner than they will for others.
http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-FCT-021...=2004:toyota:land+cruiser&keywords=fan+clutch
http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-FCT-021...=2004:toyota:land+cruiser&keywords=fan+clutch
- Thread starter
- #43
Another 104° with 31% humidity Arizona day
Best to do some more real time testing. The hill coming out of the lake is 7-8% grade
Best to do some more real time testing. The hill coming out of the lake is 7-8% grade
- Thread starter
- #44
Replaced the T-stat this morning and tested old T-stat
FSM T-stat low down -
Factory T-stat rated @ 179.6°
Start opening @ 176 - 183°
Fully open to 10mm @ 203°
LCP T-stat test results
Old T-stat appeared to be in good condition
Started opening @ 190°
Light visible at opening 193°
Opened to 5mm @203°
Maybe opened fully to 10mm but difficult with strong boiling water well over the 212° mark
100° @ 9:30AM
LX470 running for 20min F&R AC full blast
Water Temp 190° - Much lower than before
Expected temp today is 116° 20% humidity should be a good day for local area testing.
After test conclusion - old OEM T-stat was a POS
Nice to have a cool VVTI motor
FSM T-stat low down -
Factory T-stat rated @ 179.6°
Start opening @ 176 - 183°
Fully open to 10mm @ 203°
LCP T-stat test results
Old T-stat appeared to be in good condition
Started opening @ 190°
Light visible at opening 193°
Opened to 5mm @203°
Maybe opened fully to 10mm but difficult with strong boiling water well over the 212° mark
100° @ 9:30AM
LX470 running for 20min F&R AC full blast
Water Temp 190° - Much lower than before
Expected temp today is 116° 20% humidity should be a good day for local area testing.
After test conclusion - old OEM T-stat was a POS
Nice to have a cool VVTI motor
- Thread starter
- #45
Not great results, saw 209° water temp coming out of the lake but with AUX fan AC was ice cold.
Looking forward to much lower water temp since T-stat was replaced
Also noted after several trips to the lake, the VVTI sucks considerably more fuel than our old 99 LC. Without hard facts I would guess ~7mpg. Both could pull the boat out at speed but the non VVTI did work harder.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Have you inspected/adjusted the water coolant ratio?
If you really really want Phil, I have fully instrumented test vehicles with thermocouples as well as other transducers. Im sure my job would let me borrow a few of our TC modules and DAQ units (seeing as i was the one who specd them out and bought them!) if you wanted to do a full on case study.
Additionally, if you really wanted to add a nice package to your tool set, check out http://www.axiomatic.com/. Its fairly cheap for what you are getting, as compared to a full blown daq system.
Additionally, if you really wanted to add a nice package to your tool set, check out http://www.axiomatic.com/. Its fairly cheap for what you are getting, as compared to a full blown daq system.
Wow. LCP and Fengler if you get together and do a full-on instrumented test I'd love to come help.
A
A
- Thread starter
- #49
Mr T extended life premix has in the past performed well in our environment.
- Thread starter
- #50
If my Scangauge looks good on my way up North tomorrow its all good and Im done.
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Did you convert your 99 to SLLC/Pink from the red?
Here's a bit of reading, dyodd.
http://www.toyotapart.com/ENGINE_COOLANT_COLOR_CHANGE_T-PG010-02.pdf
then this from the toyota:
http://www.toyota.com/owners/parts-service/parts-details?partNo=SVPT1095
THEN:
Pink is a completely different coolant to the red, its not just premixed red.
Pink Ingredients: Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-4-6), Sebacic Acid (111-20-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3)
Red Ingredients: Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-4-6), Organic Acid Salt (532-32-1), Hydrated Inorganic Sale (1310-58-3)
RED is thicker even after doing the 50/50 mix, and works with the seals differently then the PINK.
I have seen water pump seal go when pink was added to a system that had red in it already.
Toyota pink LLC (long life coolant) is premixed. Toyota red LLC is full strength and needs to be mixed with water. Red is an OAT based coolant (Organic Acid Technology, like DEX-Cool), which like most Japanese coolants contains phosphates but no silicates. It differs from DEX-Cool primarily in that it lacks 2-EHA, which Toyota seems to believe creates some problems with gaskets. (sourced)
http://www.toyotapart.com/ENGINE_COOLANT_COLOR_CHANGE_T-PG010-02.pdf
then this from the toyota:
http://www.toyota.com/owners/parts-service/parts-details?partNo=SVPT1095
THEN:
Pink is a completely different coolant to the red, its not just premixed red.
Pink Ingredients: Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-4-6), Sebacic Acid (111-20-6), Potassium Hydroxide (1310-58-3)
Red Ingredients: Water (7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol (107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol (111-4-6), Organic Acid Salt (532-32-1), Hydrated Inorganic Sale (1310-58-3)
RED is thicker even after doing the 50/50 mix, and works with the seals differently then the PINK.
I have seen water pump seal go when pink was added to a system that had red in it already.
Toyota pink LLC (long life coolant) is premixed. Toyota red LLC is full strength and needs to be mixed with water. Red is an OAT based coolant (Organic Acid Technology, like DEX-Cool), which like most Japanese coolants contains phosphates but no silicates. It differs from DEX-Cool primarily in that it lacks 2-EHA, which Toyota seems to believe creates some problems with gaskets. (sourced)
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #53
no
red in the 99
pink in the 06
Over the years I have had great luck using the blood Mr T recommends.
Maybe im just immature, but that sounds dirty hahaha
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
I also use Toyota coolant... good stuff. I'm just wondering if possibly the red was mixed with a higher ratio of water? Either way, you can increase the ratio of water in your current pink coolant, and improve performance.
Any progress on a fan kit? While I don't get the high temps you get, we do have high humidity and average temps in mid to high 90's.
- Thread starter
- #57
I posted a thread of interest for the fan kit on the 100 board. Did you not see it?
Completely missed it. Rectified that just now 
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
Water coolant ratio and specific heat capacity. Make it better at what it does.
.
.
- Thread starter
- #60
I do agree with your chart above and do appreciate your input Brian.
I have owned several LC and LX and never had any problem cooling except a SC 80 where I did use a mix with much higher water to coolant ratio. Otherwise I have had no problem cooling stock LC & LX in our AZ heat using factory coolant. I guess what Im looking at it should cool properly without changing the coolant ratio. With a week of 110°+ temps ahead of us should be good for testing.
