Cooling a VVTi motor

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LandCruiserPhil

Peter Pan Syndrome
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Joined
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Location
Graham County, Arizona
Recently I switched to a newer LX470 with the VVTi motor. I love the added power but it looks like cooling could be an issue with the 115° days here in AZ. The VVTi very quickly jumps over 200° and hits 210° with temps just hitting 100°. Water temps runs at 198° average in normal driving, much higher than my non VVTi LC. Even in the hottest part of a summer day towing I rarely saw anything over 200° with a non VVTi motor. What water temps are other VVTi owners seeing?

I was disappointed when Toyota redesigned the air flow to the front of these vehicles and dropped the electric condenser fan on the later models. Knowing the need for maximum cooling in AZ I purchased a factory electric condenser fan that bolts in perfectly like the earlier years. Im hoping this fan will keep things running a little cooler.
 
Try adding a bottle of RedLine Water Wetter to the cooling system. I have witnessed measurable results from doing so (and it's the cheapest first step you can take)

If you decide to do it, please respond with your results.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=74
 
I'd suggest verifying the accuracy of your temperature sensors. In the FSM the graphs for the sensors are pretty broad. Could it just be that your sensors reads a little warmer? I've wondered if a laser thermometer could be used or if you'd need another sensor to do this?

Or.... Could it just be you are enjoying the faster response of the Hundy to the skinny peddle and driving with more zest? How's your mpg?
 
Correct above. Can your check temps with a scan gauge or other obd scanner?

Vvti may run hotter with the timing retard function and exhaust gases but nothing the cooing system can't handle.
 
Interesting difference you're pointing out. Not many people on here can compare/contrast the early to later year 100-series so it's always cool to hear of these details.

I personally wouldn't worry about the higher temps unless you think there's a mechanical problem. In fact, it could very well be an efficiency strategy. Running a motor too cool results in loss of combustion energy spent as heat.

What's important is that the temperatures are controlled and stable, and do not overly increase under load.

Cruisers are a world wide platform subjected to far more abuse in the middle east then then anywhere in the America's so it should handle AZ just fine.

That said, I'm interested in this condenser fan you mentioned. Any pics or details? The A/C system works much better underway then puttering around and this might be the ticket.
 
The comparison is based on the same load on the same stretch of road but with the ambient temperature ~15° cooler.

The temp reading is the same on Scan gauge, Techstream, and Torque pro.

The older 99 4sp LC would rarely see 200° from a base temp of 188° with the same load on the same stretch of road with a 15° higher ambient temp.

The VVTi starting temp is ~198° and jumps to 207° within a mile on ~5% grade something I have never seen in the 99. I would run the 99 at ~3700 rpm coming out. The coolest I could get the VVTi was at 4400rpm and it was ~204°. My concern is when ambient temps get to 115° this will become a problem. My guess it with the fan working the change will be very little at 50mph.


Owners of 06 and 07 post up your normal operating water temp to help me determine a normal base line operating temp.

Other years need not post.
 
Do you think a fan clutch oil mod or getting Landtank's blue would help?
 
Do you think a fan clutch oil mod or getting Landtank's blue would help?

From recent testing fan clutch looks to be fine. If you are modding a fan clutch for AZ temps I would use Tools r us. Landtanks temps are set too low for AZ IMO.
 
Owners of 06 and 07 post up your normal operating water temp to help me determine a normal base line operating temp.

Other years need not post.

Our scangauge is semi permanently mounted in our 2000, I'll try to get a reading off of our 2006 via techstream over the weekend
 
Condenser fan last year was 2002 with the redesign of the ducting and from my recent test they did a great job.

Pictured: Condenser fan in a 06 LX470

IMG_1972.webp


Test conditions -

Ambient outside temp in the shade - 90°(welcome to AZ)
Inside climate control set at 75°
Coolant temp 195°
Climate control off 195°
Condenser fan on 195°
Fan in front of grill 195°
Hood open 195°
Climate control off, CD fan on, hood open and fan in front of grill 195°
Raise rpm to 1800 temp drops to 191° in less than a minute and pops back up to 193° and stabilizes with rpm at 1800.

Set up picture :rolleyes:

IMG_1973.webp


Conclusion :bang::bang::bang::bang::flush::beer::beer::beer::beer:
 
Our scangauge is semi permanently mounted in our 2000, I'll try to get a reading off of our 2006 via techstream over the weekend

Thanks for your help

Note: additional scan gauge cables are available on ebay for <$5 shipped
 
Note that scan gauge/ultra gauge/tech stream/torque are all reading the same sensor...so they will return the same value. All those tools are printing out what the ECU reads from the same sensor. In order to test your sensor, you might remove it and stick it in a thermal bath and plot the resistance across temps. Compare to graph in FSM to see if its in the middle of the range or on the high side.
Picture below is from '04 FSM SFI section - look for ECT (Engine Coolant Temp). Its the same in my 01 FSM (on actual paper).

upload_2015-5-1_13-43-6.webp

I added the blue lines. At 300 ohms the temperature could be anywhere between ~150F and 200F! Another reason why Mr T's temp gauge is so vague I suppose.


One more idea? Thermostat is good right? 04 model is stamped with 82C, same in VVTI variant? This would also answer the question about whether VVTI is designed to run warmer.

upload_2015-5-1_13-41-12.webp
 
Even if the sensor was out of spec how do you explain the overly quick ramp up in temps?

With no other cooling addition having any effect on temps says to me the existing cooling set up is doing a good job, yes?
 
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Note that scan gauge/ultra gauge/tech stream/torque are all reading the same sensor...so they will return the same value. All those tools are printing out what the ECU reads from the same sensor. In order to test your sensor, you might remove it and stick it in a thermal bath and plot the resistance across temps. Compare to graph in FSM to see if its in the middle of the range or on the high side.
Picture below is from '04 FSM SFI section - look for ECT (Engine Coolant Temp). Its the same in my 01 FSM (on actual paper).

View attachment 1070289
I added the blue lines. At 300 ohms the temperature could be anywhere between ~150F and 200F! Another reason why Mr T's temp gauge is so vague I suppose.


One more idea? Thermostat is good right? 04 model is stamped with 82C, same in VVTI variant? This would also answer the question about whether VVTI is designed to run warmer.

The diagram and tstat marking of 82°C appears to be the same in the 2006 FSM
 
maybe it needs scoops and vents.....ala the some of the Sc'ed 80's...... I'm debating vents for my truck ....it's a heat sink in there with the sc'er...
 
Interestingly, the VVTI 2UZ-FE was not a worldwide motor. I do not believe Australian nor the M.E. 100's received them. Might have in the 200 series though.

I learned something new today. Wonder why. The 200 series uses yet another variant, 4.6 vvti motor.

The older 99 4sp LC would rarely see 200° from a base temp of 188° with the same load on the same stretch of road with a 15° higher ambient temp.

The VVTi starting temp is ~198° and jumps to 207° within a mile on ~5% grade something I have never seen in the 99.

Just to put this in perspective. 198 to 188° between the two base temps of the cars is only a 5% diff.

Your 99 fluctuates a total of ~6% between base and load
Your 06 fluctuates a total of ~5% between base and load

Everything is hunky dory based on that and well within tolerances between the cars.

The fans do not typically contribute much if anything at speed, and most actually turn off at that point. They predominantly contribute at idle/parking lot speeds. So while adding the condenser fan is cool (no pun intended), I would not expect it to make any difference at speed as you're finding.
 
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The fans do not typically contribute much if anything at speed, and most actually turn off at that point. They predominantly contribute at idle/parking lot speeds. So while adding the condenser fan is cool (no pun intended), I would not expect it to make any difference at speed as you're finding.


My electric fan test was done at an idle/parked for that reason. We frequently spend hours waiting to cross the border in heat, something our 99 with an electric fan handle without any issue.
 
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