Convince me to stay with Full time 4x4

[andrewm42]

Hi,

I would really make my decision based on your transfer case. If you keep your HF2A, I would go full time 4wd.

If you want to go part time, I would definitely replace the transfer case with the HF1A - otherwise you will need to always leave your center diff locked and the front prop shaft will continue to be spinning. I would also only put the free wheeling hubs on my setup with the HF1A

Regards

Andrew

 

[Lka1988]

Question for you guys: Is the HF1A used in the FJ62? Or is the 62 case just kinda it's own thing?

I've edited my original post to reflect what I will actually do.

To clarify: If I go part-time, I will be converting my HF2A to a part-time case using the AVM kit from Slee. FW'ing hubs are included in the kit.

 

[Lka1988]

Perhaps the biggest advantage, would to enable the use of the Longfield Chro/Mo axle shafts and birfs. They do not last in full time use(17K miles for one local here), but would be perfecty fine in part time use.

This is one of the bigger reasons I want to go with part-time, to use chromo stuff.

If you want do a cheaper test, install hubs, CDL button, and remove your from shaft, and see how you going.

For the record, guys, I've been running in 2WD for the last month and a half. No front driveline, no axle shafts, no birfs. Literally nothing in the front end.

91-92 come with the CDL switch already installed.

 

[andrewm42]

Just had a look - If I understand the setup correctly, it just looks as if the Slee part time kit gives you free whieeling hubs on the front end.

"Fitting this kit allows you to run your '91-'07 30 or 100 Series Land Cruiser in part time 4wd. On '93-'97 vehicles the viscous coupler is removed. 80 Series Land Cruisers require a center diff lock switch."

If you really want to go 2wd, then get the HF1A + the Free wheeling hub kit. Doing it this way just seems like half a solution.

So seeing it was partially a financial issue, ie would go for the cheaper option.

BTW - The image you showed of where you wanted to end up - looks like it involves a little more work than just the 2wd changes - 37" tires?/different diffs?/intercooler?/custom suspension?... My gut feeling is that this would cost more like 10,000... and not 2000.

Cheers

Andrew

 

[Lka1988]

Just had a look - If I understand the setup correctly, it just looks as if the Slee part time kit gives you free whieeling hubs on the front end.

If you really want to go 2wd, then get the HF1A + the Free wheeling hub kit. Doing it this way just seems like half a solution.

The Slee (AVM) kit involves replacing the center diff with a spool of sorts, basically turning the CDL actuator into a 4WD actuator. One uses the CDL button to actuate 4WD. This kit plus Longfields and chromoly inner shafts comes out to $1400 or so, versus $15-1800 for OEM birfs and shafts.

Guys, you're totally missing the point. I've already done my research. I already know the details of both options. I am not asking how to install part-time nor how a part-time conversion works, I ALREADY UNDERSTAND THAT.

What I want to know is your EXPERIENCE, part-time versus full-time, which option you would go with and why.

BTW - The image you showed of where you wanted to end up - looks like it involves a little more work than just the 2wd changes - 37" tires?/different diffs?/intercooler?/custom suspension?... My gut feeling is that this would cost more like 10,000... and not 2000.

No kidding? They are 40's, BTW. Custom diff covers. It's PKP80's rig. What I would like mine to be, but I can only get there one step at a time. With 40's, I'd want Longfields, and to run Longs, I would need to go part-time.

See where I'm going with this?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

If you are serious send a PM to Alia. He bought the part time case parts from Australia and installed in his case. Then he runs mini-truck hubs on the birfs with a new groove cut in the end of the stub shaft. Much cheaper than a part time kit.

If you want to get fancy, Cruiserdan has sourced and sells real 80 series locking hubs that work with unmodified later 80 series birfields. They are spendy, but exactly the right part for the job.

 

[Lka1988]

If you are serious send a PM to Alia. He bought the part time case parts from Australia and installed in his case. Then he runs mini-truck hubs on the birfs with a new groove cut in the end of the stub shaft. Much cheaper than a part time kit.

If you want to get fancy, Cruiserdan has sourced and sells real 80 series locking hubs that work with unmodified later 80 series birfields. They are spendy, but exactly the right part for the job.

Got an idea on the cost of 80 hubs? And you mention later birfs... I can't remember off the top of my head, but are Longfields modeled after later birfs?

 

[Lka1988]

Ok, so a third option has come up... Toying around with the idea of getting a locked junkyard front axle and just swapping it out.

Now obviously I'd run into some fitment issues with the wheels, so I want to know if the basic housing design has changed at all from 91 to 97 (aside from where the 3rd bolts in, I know that's different in the locked housing). I would be running my 1991 knuckles. You know, so I wouldn't have to worry about grinding calipers and such.

I have a feeling my current housing may be bent...

 

[Ebag333]

Now obviously I'd run into some fitment issues with the wheels, so I want to know if the basic housing design has changed at all from 91 to 97 (aside from where the 3rd bolts in, I know that's different in the locked housing). I would be running my 1991 knuckles. You know, so I wouldn't have to worry about grinding calipers and such.

Why not switch to a 16" wheel?

I realize that it'd be more expensive, but you'd get the added benefit of being able to run the larger calipers and 100 series pads. Would definitely increase stopping power.

Of course if axle swaps are coming into play, I vote for portals.

 

[Lka1988]

Why not switch to a 16" wheel?

I realize that it'd be more expensive, but you'd get the added benefit of being able to run the larger calipers and 100 series pads. Would definitely increase stopping power.

Of course if axle swaps are coming into play, I vote for portals.

My brakes work fine already.

Now factory vs portals, we're talkin $1200 bolt-in vs $8000 and some fab work... That is, if the 1991 knuckle fits on the later locked housing...

That, and I did enough tire/wheel swapping last year. I like my current set of 33's and Taco rims.

 

[sandcruiser]

After reading your responses, I don't know why we are even discussing this

Go PT.

You want Longs at some point, have to go PT for that. Case closed.

Besides, it costs less. Double bonus.

the only downside seems to be "it isn't stock". which clearly doesn't bother you.
oh.... and "you'll lose some ability to drive in slightly snowy conditions". Which may or may not be worth something to you.

the sway bar on a 97 front axle is a little different than on a 91. I don't know if the knuckles work or not.

 

[Lka1988]

After reading your responses, I don't know why we are even discussing this

Hence the name of the thread

Just seeing if there really is any benefit to staying with full-time. I remember reading a post from, I think it was Tapage (could be wrong)... Basically, people with part time 80s were complaining about not getting full time and stuff. So when they got the full time option, the guys with part time traded up. They did not like the way full time drove.

 

[cc93cruiser]

*Cheap plug* Lane if you do decide to go part time and want the chromo stuff, I have brand new never installed Newfield birfs from slee and new long inners. 500.00 plus the ride for everything.

 

[VinSil]

Slee's kit requires you to use the newer Birf's from a 93+...which is what the LF's are modeled after, so it is a win/win.

The ONLY think I'm not a huge fan of with Slee's kit, is the AVM hubs. They are basically superwinch hubs remarketed, I would prefer the stronger, factory aisin's. It does add in a weak point, the hubs. Carry spares or maybe keep your drive flanges (from the newer 80 you source your birfs from?) for a just in case.






I see no benefit with full time as I stated previous. If you need 4x4, you lock in your truck like we all used to back in the day. Not knocking the full time guys, but it really doesn't take much to stop, turn your hubs and pull your tcase lever. With the direction you want to take your truck...it makes sense to go PT.

 

[yoopercharged]

I miss the way my PT FJ60 drives in the snow, I think I needed 4WD once when there was about 2 feet of snow plus on the roads. Other than that, it handles about like a snowcat. The 80 has some pretty bad understeer. Traction and ABS with FT do not help at all when you're sliding off the road in slow motion. How do the PT 80s compare when cornering?

 

[lt1fire]

Part time with LF, really a no brainer. If you are ever driving in a situation that warrants 4wheel drive, shift into it.

Chromalloy will wear faster than OEM....you will need to replace them more frequently if you use this as a daily driver .... at least that is what my research is telling me.

Hence the whole part time kit which will negate this

 

[Lka1988]

Part time with LF, really a no brainer. If you are ever driving in a situation that warrants 4wheel drive, shift into it.

My thoughts exactly.

 

[GXO]

Fulltime with Longs. It is what I do, if the longs wear, I will buy new ones, they havent after over a year.

I also do not DD my truck, so I guess you can make some conclusions from your own experience.

Either option would work well...one is just a lot less work to get there

 

[Bearcat80]

You left out the obvious low cost option:

#3 Replace axle innards with used parts. You ought to be able to do that, with new birfs, for under say $600.00 bucks.

IMHO, the full time set up with good snow tires is possibly the best footed snow car I've driven.

 

[lt1fire]

You left out the obvious low cost option:

#3 Replace axle innards with used parts. You ought to be able to do that, with new birfs, for under say $600.00 bucks.

IMHO, the full time set up with good snow tires is possibly the best footed snow car I've driven.

New OEM birfs even from cdan would run ya quite a bit over $600