Convince me to stay with Full time 4x4

Which one do you think? Same price range...

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Lka1988 said:
Ok, so a third option has come up... Toying around with the idea of getting a locked junkyard front axle and just swapping it out.

Now obviously I'd run into some fitment issues with the wheels, so I want to know if the basic housing design has changed at all from 91 to 97 (aside from where the 3rd bolts in, I know that's different in the locked housing). I would be running my 1991 knuckles. You know, so I wouldn't have to worry about grinding calipers and such.

I have a feeling my current housing may be bent... :doh:
17258_433684110227_539070227_10706345_5316979_n.jpg
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The housing is essentially the same, except for the ring where the diff mounts. Also, 15" wheels interfere with the rear axle calipers, AFAIK. You would want to research that, but 15" wheels should fit fine on the front axle of any 80. If not, 17" factory forged Toyota wheels off of Tundras, Sequoias, FJC's and Tacos can be had cheaply on Craigslist, and with spacers give you more options for tires, both price and variety.
 
-Spike- said:
The housing is essentially the same, except for the ring where the diff mounts. Also, 15" wheels interfere with the rear axle calipers, AFAIK. You would want to research that, but 15" wheels should fit fine on the front axle of any 80. If not, 17" factory forged Toyota wheels off of Tundras, Sequoias, FJC's and Tacos can be had cheaply on Craigslist, and with spacers give you more options for tires, both price and variety.
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But will the knuckles from a 1991 fit on a later locked housing?
 
CreeperSleeper said:
Forgive me if this has already been mentioned but the hubs that come with Slee's PT kit voids the warrenty on the Longs. You need to run ASIAN hubs with Bobby's hub gears. Just food for thought.
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Not been mentioned, and good info.
 
Lka1988 said:
But will the knuckles from a 1991 fit on a later locked housing?
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AFAIK there's no difference, other than the ABS which doesn't affect anything. CruiserDan would have a definitive answer. I don't know why you'd want to keep your '91 knuckles, though- any reason?
 
-Spike- said:
AFAIK there's no difference, other than the ABS which doesn't affect anything. CruiserDan would have a definitive answer. I don't know why you'd want to keep your '91 knuckles, though- any reason?
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1. No ABS
2. Keep my 15's.

Using my 1991 knuckles, I wouldn't have to fret over my current 15's not fitting over the later brakes.

That, and I wouldn't have to disconnect the brake lines to swap calipers. Just unbolt the calipers and lines from the old housing and bolt them back onto the new housing when it's installed. IH8bleeding brakes...
 
Understood. I'd recommend test-fitting one of your 15's on the later axle before you dismantle it, it might be good info to have later.

You probably need to bleed your brakes anyway. :D
 
jdlsantos said:
There are countries where the 80s come PT stock, but they don’t have rigorous regulations.
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Australia doesn't have rigorous safety regulations? Hell i cant legally go bigger than a 2" lift and stock tires.

My 80 is part time from factory and it drives fine, in fact after driving a full time 4wd for the past few months driving my new 80 has been somewhat refreshing. best of every world in my opinion, part time 4wd and diesel to boot.

see if you can dig up some stock 80 series PT 4wd gear from australia and go that way.
 
my PT tcase has an electric actuator to engage the front drive shaft,
then the same hi/N/lo stick that is found in a USA 80.

works well. someone sourced a Center Diff Lock button for the dash, I wish it said "4wd" instead, but this is really a minor complaint!

the actuator does a good job-- especially for taking it out of 4wd into 2wd while moving, easier than using the stick to do the same.
 
sandcruiser said:
my PT tcase has an electric actuator to engage the front drive shaft,
then the same hi/N/lo stick that is found in a USA 80.

works well. someone sourced a Center Diff Lock button for the dash, I wish it said "4wd" instead, but this is really a minor complaint!

the actuator does a good job-- especially for taking it out of 4wd into 2wd while moving, easier than using the stick to do the same.
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This is exactly how the slee kit works as well. FYI.


Creepy brings up a great point so just count on getting factory hubs if you go with longs.
 
VinSil said:
Creepy brings up a great point so just count on getting factory hubs if you go with longs.
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Planning on it. :D

Any idea on what hubs fit with Longs? or Newfields? Looking to run minitruck hubs, if I can.
 
IIRC, I thought the 80 hubs were specific..and hard to find or expensive.
 
I didn't see if it was already mentioned, but another advantage of PT would be the option of running a cheaper (aussie) locker in the front instead of an ARB or factory.
 
nicholas said:
I didn't see if it was already mentioned, but another advantage of PT would be the option of running a cheaper (aussie) locker in the front instead of an ARB or factory.
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I've thought about that, but then I'd be extremely limited in 4WD, i.e. completely locked, not maneuverable at all.

If I put a locker in the front, I'd go with an e-locker (factory, Eaton, etc) or ARB. Gotta have selectable up there, IMO. I need some sort of maneuverability in 4WD.
 
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Lka1988 said:
Planning on it. :D

Any idea on what hubs fit with Longs? or Newfields? Looking to run minitruck hubs, if I can.
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I just picked up some 76-78 FJ 40/55 long Body Aisin hubs for my 96'. I assume you would need these with the longfields? If not you can run any other Toyota Aisin hub, the body size are all the same, only difference is spline count on the IFS.
 
silverhorse said:
I just picked up some 76-78 FJ 40/55 long Body Aisin hubs for my 96'. I assume you would need these with the longfields? If not you can run any other Toyota Aisin hub, the body size are all the same, only difference is spline count on the IFS.
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:hhmm:
 
Lka1988 said:
Ideal solution. Guts from an HF1A and factory locking hubs...

So enlighten me, guys. Those of you with the HF1A, how does the 4WD work? Is it all in the transfer case lever? H2/H4/N/L4? Or is it push-button 4WD, like one factory setup I've seen (link below)?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/149629-rotw-elsie-full-stock-middle-east-specs.html
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mine uses a transfer case lever with a straight shift pattern H2 - H4 which can be switched at any speed as long as the hubs are locked, then you have to lift the lever up while pulling it back to get it into N and L4, this you cant do whilst moving at any great speed.
 
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