Continuing electrical gremlins . . ugh (1 Viewer)

[LCyal8r]

Drove through 2 feet of water quickly and since then have had various electrical issues. Last thing we worked on was running a diagnostic test. Couldn't get any readings back off the ODB sensor. My buddy the Toyota tech said it might be ECU. Got a new (used) ECU and placed it in. Now, when I go to turn it over, I get nothing. Before on the old ECU I was at least getting it trying to turn over. I just get the click of death and nothing.

Fusible links are good, fuses are good. I'm gonna give the battery a bit more to charge in case it ran down, but . . . I'm getting close to the end with this crap.

 

[Maleficio]

One time in my Trooper I hit some standing water pretty fast and the water drenched the alternator which shut me down. After time to dry out couldn't get it to crank. Had it towed to a shop, they cleaned and tightened the battery terminals and I was back on the road.

 

[LCyal8r]

I think my alternator is . . . going bad if not already bad. Even though autozone tested it as good, twice. But even aside from that I can't even get the damn thing to start. It'll now turn over again off a jump but no engine function.

I'm never going close to water ever again in my truck.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Water doesn't do the damage, plenty of cruisers world wide have been fish tanked crossing deep rivers. Poor driving skills are what kill. You don't drive through water at speed. Always a bad idea. Nice slower steady pace with a bow wake ahead of your front end. If you're doing it at some sort of speed you need one of the front end aprons that cover your grill etc.. to hold out water...end rant.

Your buddy is a Toyota tech and can't figure it out? Well hopefully the collective knowledge of MUD can solve this.

What we will need:
A detailed description of the problem and symptoms.
What you have checked.
What you have replaced other than the ECU if anything.
What your gauge cluster looks like on start up...all the lights that come on when the key is turned.

The more specific you are the easier it will be for members to help out.

 

[jonheld]

ECU has zero to do with starter operation. Completely separate.

 

[Tools R Us]

I think my alternator is . . . going bad if not already bad. Even though autozone tested it as good, twice. But even aside from that I can't even get the damn thing to start. It'll now turn over again off a jump but no engine function.

Need to be more clear on what works or not. Does the starter correctly crank the motor, what is the battery voltage, with the key turned to run, is the CEL on?

I'm never going close to water ever again in my truck.

According to most around here, just get a Chinese dorkel and you will be able to cross anything.

 

[Tools R Us]

One time in my Trooper I hit some standing water pretty fast and the water drenched the alternator which shut me down. ...

It's not an Isuzu.

 

[LCyal8r]

ECU has zero to do with starter operation. Completely separate.

We couldn't get any codes off it when we had power and were trying to turn it over.

 

[LCyal8r]

The truck will turn over. When the key is inserted you don't get any odd lights.

In the last couple months after the electrical anomaly I replaced the fuel pump relay and had the alternator tested (it came back OK). I reassembled after the Alternator test and it wouldn't start.

 

[Tools R Us]

The truck will turn over. When the key is inserted you don't get any odd lights.
...

With the key turned to run, is the CEL lit?

 

[Marine7]

But, when you put your key in, and turn it towards (NOT starting), just towards starting, does the CEL illuminate?

 

[jonheld]

We couldn't get any codes off it when we had power and were trying to turn it over.

OK, but that doesn't change the fact that you can completely remove the ECU and most other components and the starter will still crank. Again, the ECU has no effect on the starter logic.

If you have a no-crank when you turn the key to start, you should hear the starter solenoid pull in with a good solid "clunk". If she won't crank, then the starter contacts and plunger need to be replaced.

If you don't hear the solenoid pull in, then you need to troubleshoot the logic path to the starter.
Battery; fusible link AM1; fuse AM1; ignition switch; neutral start switch; starter logic connector.
The motor side of the starter is a direct connection to the positive battery terminal.

You should also make sure you're checking fusible links with a meter and not your eyeballs.

 

[jonheld]

Of course you could also have a simple dead battery...
Or a bad battery connection...

Always check the simple things first.

 

[Maleficio]

Of course you could also have a simple dead battery...
Or a bad battery connection...

Always check the simple things first.

This is precisely what I was trying to say in my post about driving my "Isuzu" through invisible but deep water on a highway at speed. Battery terminals were not tight enough and the sudden stop from the flooding shifted the battery and opened a terminal.