*#+% cone washers!!!
- Thread starter RaleighCJ
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Long stroke air hammer, blunt punch, done.
Hit the stud with a brass hammer a few times and they pop off.
This. Works every time.
you can also put a screwdriver in the slot and smack it while twisting to open the slot
I've used all the suggested methods with success.
I have also whacked the side of the hub with a BFH as well to get them loose.
I have also whacked the side of the hub with a BFH as well to get them loose.
I just put a nut on two on the stud and wail on it for a few seconds. I used antisieze on them going back in.
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Use a 2-3lb sledge and a 3/4-1" drift against the stud. They will pop out. You may have to use a plier to unthread them after they unseat.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Brass hammer tapping on the sides of the flange. Never ever an issue, just did it today as a matter of fact showing another mudder how to do it.
mingles
GOLD Star
Just so you know you are not alone :^)
Cone Washer Frustrations...
After all the other suggestions, the blunt chisel and an air hammer popped them off in less than a minute.
Good luck!
Cone Washer Frustrations...
After all the other suggestions, the blunt chisel and an air hammer popped them off in less than a minute.
Good luck!
You need to be a bit careful doing this, as I did it on mine and managed to hit it hard enough to distort the holes in the flange that made it harder to put back together.
That's why I recommend installing the nut on each on so it is flush with the tip of the stud, then hit it hard straight on the end of the stud with a BRASS hammer. This will keep the cones from flying away and will help protect the threads on the end of the stud.
Yep air hammer for the win done 1000,s never an issue or chance of damage.
Modified an old flathead screwdriver with a grinder to match the angle of the cone washers. The screw driver was slender enough at the tip to wedge open the cone washers with a few taps. An unmodified flathead doesn't wedge itself far enough into the recess of the hub to wedge the cone washers open and pop them out. It's always worked for me and I've tore into some pretty crusty axles with consistent success. Most of the cone washers and studs were undamaged and reusable with this strategy.
- Thread starter
- #17
They came out easy the next morning with a brass drift and hammer after penetrating oil.
The knuckle has been apart. The flange didn't have a gasket, and it appears there has been a bit of water inside, but nothing more that some surface rust that some fine steel wool will take care of.
The knuckle has been apart. The flange didn't have a gasket, and it appears there has been a bit of water inside, but nothing more that some surface rust that some fine steel wool will take care of.
I usually do the nut on, and hit it with a hammer, make sure the nut's are on all, I launched one across the shop ( I thank my father for the great training on finding missing parts, he was a watch maker, and would some time lose a ladies wrist watch parts, and I would find them ), also a pair of, wire cutters and pry them out, but the hammer method is best
On my rear hub. All but one cone came out with the brass drift and a few whacks on the studs.
One was a sore loser even after heat and pb and more banging and more banging.
After 15 mins of futzing with it. I opted to try to just put in he two lifting bolts into the hub and slowly tightened them down.
Worked, no issues. The sticky cone washer just stayed in place and came out with the axle flange and slide right over the threaded part of the stud. No damage to the threads.
Then once out the axle was out, I just popped it out from the back side of the flange.
One was a sore loser even after heat and pb and more banging and more banging.
After 15 mins of futzing with it. I opted to try to just put in he two lifting bolts into the hub and slowly tightened them down.
Worked, no issues. The sticky cone washer just stayed in place and came out with the axle flange and slide right over the threaded part of the stud. No damage to the threads.
Then once out the axle was out, I just popped it out from the back side of the flange.
if it happens again, along with using a fat screwdriver to open the split (which forces them out), you can use said screwdriver to get them to rotate first, then try the other options. once they rotate, dang near anything will get them off.
