Common PM Items Questions.....

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WarWagon

WarWagon

10 Year
Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Threads
282
Messages
1,476
Location
North GA
1999 100 Series, 285K, rear locker, no AHC.....I'm an experienced former 80 owner, first 100.

Good: One owner 15 years
Clean interior
Good paint
Strong engine
All power items work
No CEL etc
Tranny shifts smooth under load

Bad: PO sloppy on maint
TB & water pump being replaced Tuesday
5-6 small rust patches on rocker panels
Trans makes clunk noise when I shift into gear
Popping noise up front when I go over speed bump etc (steering rack?)
Moves forward a bit even after I'm in P

So I have a few newbie questions for this model; should I flush the tranny fluid or just do a drain and refill?
What's the noise when shifting into gear?
Thoughts on the creaky popping up front over speed bumps?
And what other baseline items do you suggest while she's under the knife on Tuesday?

Overall she drives great and I'm really liking the V8! I'm gonna spend the entire day today cleaning the interior and prepping some of the smaller rust spots. Thanks.
 
WarWagon said:
1999 100 Series, 285K, rear locker, no AHC.....I'm an experienced former 80 owner, first 100.

Good: One owner 15 years
Clean interior
Good paint
Strong engine
All power items work
No CEL etc
Tranny shifts smooth under load

Bad: PO sloppy on maint
TB & water pump being replaced Tuesday
5-6 small rust patches on rocker panels
Trans makes clunk noise when I shift into gear
Popping noise up front when I go over speed bump etc (steering rack?)
Moves forward a bit even after I'm in P

So I have a few newbie questions for this model; should I flush the tranny fluid or just do a drain and refill?
What's the noise when shifting into gear?
Thoughts on the creaky popping up front over speed bumps?
And what other baseline items do you suggest while she's under the knife on Tuesday?

Overall she drives great and I'm really liking the V8! I'm gonna spend the entire day today cleaning the interior and prepping some of the smaller rust spots. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Now the fun begins...

Clunk is most likely front drive train. Frist look at wheel hub flange teeth, work your way inward i.e. front drive shaft. Flange & axle teeth become worn as do axle to differential. Most any 100 with a good amount of miles will have some clunk, but new have no play in this area..

All 100's move forward/backward a few inch when park brake set. Apply park brake while in N, the let foot off foot brake, once slake (roll) taken-up put in P. This helps keep wear of P locking pin to a minimum.

I do a full 12qt flush with M1 full synthetic MV ATF every ~20K miles. I also do Power Steering flush with same fluid ever 10K miles.

Check bushing of steering rack. Remove skid plate, have someone turn steering wheel side to side while watching steering rack. New bushing ~$50.

"creaky popping" could be a number of things. Do full front end inspection. Check ball joint and all bushing. As I recall you said "metal in bearings". When you repack your wheel bearings it may be best to pull steering knuckle and inspected axle bearing & bushing. Axle Bushing and bearing usually don't go bad, but are often overlooked and not greased every ~30k miles when wheel bearing are serviced.
 
Creaky popping exactly describes a condition I chased on mine for the last 6 months. It went away when I replaced the anti-sway bar bushings. The rear cushions were so compressed you could move the links by hand. Very easy fix.
 
If there are 5-6 rust places on the rocker panels, make sure it's surface rust from chipped paint and not a rust-through from behind. If they are rust-throughs, you'll want to spend a LOT more time underneath doing what you can about rust to save the truck.
 
There is a link in the FAQ to the Toyota site with the scheduled maintenance guides. Below is a list that I consolidated from the maintenance schedules for my 98 LC. Since items repeat at certain intervals (up to 120k, I think) it was easier just to have a single list.

Dean

Replace engine oil and oil filter
Rotate tires
Inspect brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs
Inspect nuts and bolts on chassis and body
Inspect steering linkages
Lubricate propeller shaft and re-torque bolts (4WD)
Inspect Ball joints and dust covers
Replace engine air filter
Replace engine coolant
Repack front wheel bearings
Inspect Drive shaft boots (re-torque flange bolts)
Inspect Exhaust pipes and mountings
Inspect Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses Inspect Fuel tank cap gasket
Inspect Steering gear box for leakage
Replace transmission, transfer and differential oil
Replace spark plugs
Inspect Charcoal canister
Inspect Drive belts
Inspect Valves (audible inspection), adjust if necessary
Replace air conditioning filter
Replace timing belt
 
Here's one spot of rust I discovered once running boards were removed:

image.webp
 
I found 1 really bad spot on the frame; went to banging around and here you go......so, I assume welding this as a fix is in order?? Also, I have VHT Rust Fix that sprays on clear and destroys rust as well as preventing future spreading for surface rust areas.

image.webp
 
My front end clunk turned out to be the front diff carrier bushing. It's in a metal arm that connects the driver side axle tube to the diff mount. You can buy the entire arm with the bushing pre installed for ~100. Part number: 52380-60040 Support Assembly
 
ihadmail said:
My front end clunk turned out to be the front diff carrier bushing. It's in a metal arm that connects the driver side axle tube to the diff mount. You can buy the entire arm with the bushing pre installed for ~100. Part number: 52380-60040 Support Assembly
Click to expand...

How did you found out that it was that bushing? That's mighty specific!
 
I had read of other members having issues with that bushing. My drive shafts were adequately greased, another common culprit for driveline clunk when transitioning from on to off throttle and back again. I had a look at it and could see the rubber was almost completely separated and the center steel bushing was no longer centered.

Here is my old one. First pic shows torn rubber, second shows bushing is offset in the rubber now.
image.webp
image.webp
 
I identified at least 6 other bushings like that under my car today.... They all need to go. I did not spot that one yet. Good catch!
 
I'll add that to my list! I'm good when on and off the throttle, it's only when going from P to D.

Trying not to freak out about the rust, it really isn't a lot, it's just numerous spots. The hole in the frame above is the worst of it. I need to read up on some fixes and the best products to use to stop it in its track and prevent further rust.

Gonna dive into the couple of articles provided above shortly.
 
Rust needs to be cut out of body to stop it. I've seen many claims of rust removers, but they require soaking parts in a tub of solution. Slee Off Road recently told me of a 100 series (out of warranty) that Toyota took care of the rust. Hole in the frame may get you a new frame.

I recently bought a poorly maintain 01, for the most part it's rust free. I've bee document here in mud a lot of what I've found. You may find some helpful stuff within the links in the OP: LX470 to build or not to build... As I've gone though it system by system I've learned a lot. These rigs can be brought back from the dead to showroom fresh condition, and last as long as one is willing to keep maintained properly.
 
Ole Colony said:
Look for the 200k make over thread. It has a lot of part numbers.
Click to expand...
Thanks, will do! Already checked out that ~100 front diff carrier part is over $250 here.... Which means that 200k makeover thread will not be good for my blood pressure....
 
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