Combine Timing belt + radiator replacement? (2 Viewers)

[Super77]

I need to do both jobs (DIY) and logically they should be combined since they’re in the same area. My problem is I’m pressed for time and 1) I’ve done several radiator replacements, 2) never done a timing belt service on a 2UZ. So, I’d prefer to do the rad first, then later take my time with the TB.

Question: will I end up doing a lot of stuff twice? Is the TB service much easier with the radiator removed?

The TB is a replacement Toyota part with 45K miles and 14 years on it. But my radiator is original and pretty brown/baked on top, so that feels more urgent than the TB.

 

[TexLexican]

I removed mine just as added protection, but some people will tape cardboard to the radiator to protect the fins and then proceed. Removing the fan clutch will probably be a pain. Also removing the hood latch will make life on your ribs much easier while reaching over and into the engine bay.

 

[nissanh]

Yes, without the radiator, you can easily get an impact driver to loosen and tighten the crank bolt. When I did mine, I took off the radiator, it makes the T-belt job way easier!

 

[OEMGUY0720]

When you do the TB it’s usually with the water pump, and the water pump is a critical component of your cooling system, which is directly connected to your radiator. So yes your engine will thank you for giving it a more efficient cooling system especially this time of the year.

 

[Super77]

When you do the TB it’s usually with the water pump, and the water pump is a critical component of your cooling system, which is directly connected to your radiator. So yes your engine will thank you for giving it a more efficient cooling system especially this time of the year.

WP is a Toyota replacement unit, dealer-replaced 45k miles ago. Given it doesn’t deteriorate like a belt, I’m planning to leave it alone this time.

 

[rexington14]

If the radiator is showing warning signs I'd switch it out sooner than later.

You can get a decent look at the timing belt by removing the air box and pulling the passenger side timing cover. I bet it looks fine and assuming WP is not leaking that job can wait a few months until you find some time.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

WP is a Toyota replacement unit, dealer-replaced 45k miles ago. Given it doesn’t deteriorate like a belt, I’m planning to leave it alone this time.

Oh so you TB and WP was done at the same time a while back, and to you account 14 years ago, hopefully you consider a full coolant drain as well if 14 years ago was the time new coolant was poured. Over time of heat and cold cycles, as mentioned in other threads here the coolant’s ph level gets acidic. Aluminum parts react to acidic coolant.

 

[Super77]

Oh so you TB and WP was done at the same time a while back, and to you account 14 years ago, hopefully you consider a full coolant drain as well if 14 years ago was the time new coolant was poured. Over time of heat and cold cycles, as mentioned in other threads here the coolant’s ph level gets acidic. Aluminum parts react to acidic coolant.

Yes, I have paperwork for a WP/TB service at 90K in 2010 - so 15 years actually. The truck was very lightly driven since, about 3K/year.

It was dealer-maintained by the PO with Toyota coolant used (I checked, it’s red), but I’ll do a flush along with the radiator just for good measure. Thermostat, hoses, and tees also while I have it empty.

 

[bhsdriller]

easy to do belt service with radiator in place

 

[89BIGBLUE]

Also check the fan bracket/bearing when doing TB or WP. It’s one of the “while it’s off/in there” parts to inspect and consider changing.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Just do the radiator and coolant now, everything else is much lower priority.

 

[andrewderrick]

Replace radiator and heater tees. Do the belt when you can

 

[2001LC]

I'd do, all at same time. Rad, only adds, about 1 hour to T-belt service. Some pull radiator during T-belt anyway, so those have zero add.

The main overlaps. Are upper & lower rad hoses, fan shroud and coolant.

That said; I'd not have much concern with a 14 year old Toyota T-belt, that has lived in area like Seattle WA. On a 99 4.7L 2UZ.

The brown on radiator top, is sign of age, and one that has been run low on coolant. It only takes a small air pocket, to speed up aging of plastic top and plastic tees. That, and not flushing Toy LL (Red) coolant, earlier of every 2 years or 30K in 98-03 100 series.

Age even in low mile, has its effect on WP, fan bracket and other components. Dealership rarely replace T-belt tensioner, pulleys much less the fan bracket.

Factory installed fan bracket with ~18 years and only 24K miles: FSM states: Any oil seen at back seal, replace fan bracket.

 

[Super77]

I'd do, all at same time. Rad, only adds, about 1 hour to T-belt service. Some pull radiator during T-belt anyway, so those have zero add.

The main overlaps. Are upper & lower rad hoses, fan shroud and coolant.

That said; I'd not have much concern with a 14 year old Toyota T-belt, that has lived in area like Seattle WA. On a 99 4.7L 2UZ.

The brown on radiator top, is sign of age, and one that has been run low on coolant. It only takes a small air pocket, to speed up aging of plastic top and plastic tees. That, and not flushing Toy LL (Red) coolant, earlier of every 2 years or 30K in 98-03 100 series.

Age even in low mile, has its effect on WP, fan bracket and other components. Dealership rarely replace T-belt tensioner, pulleys much less the fan bracket.

Factory installed fan bracket with ~18 years and only 24K miles: FSM states: Any oil seen at back seal, replace fan bracket.
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Great and thorough reply as usual @2001LC . I’ve been reading your TB posts prepping for this job.

 

[Super77]

Question about doing a flush:

The instructions on the back of the Toyota LL coolant jug say to drain the old coolant, refill with fresh water, run the engine, and drain. It also says that 50% of the system’s capacity will remain in the head and block after the drain.

So, assuming a correct 50/50 dilution at the start AND that half the system’s capacity remains after a drain:

- initial drain and refill with water yields a 75% water, 25% coolant mix in the system

- second drain and refill with undiluted LL coolant yields a final 37.5% water, 65% coolant.

But, if I do the final fill with 25% water, 75% coolant, I should end up at 50/50 (system half full of “weak” mix + a half fill of “strong” mix = balanced mix)

Am I over-thinking? Or is it worth faffing around with the block drain plugs to fully drain the system for a “clean” refill?

 

[2001LC]

With the 98-03 using Toy LL (Red) and mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

We drain both block drains and radiator. Capture every drop in jug, measuring how much comes out. I get about 3 gallons. More or less depending on if I blow out engine and heater cores (~3 2/3 gal.).

We flush, with ~9 gallons of D-water. Add 3 gallon to system (fill) bring to op temp and drain, repeat ( total of 3 times) until clear.

We then have 1 gallon of near pure D-water in the system.

Add 1 gallon of 100% Toy LL (red). We now have about 2 gallons of 50/50 in system.

Mix another gallon of red with gallon of D-water. Then add the 50/50 mix to system and reservoir (Max line).

Run until op temp reached, getting RPM to 3K for at least 2 minutes. let engine cool overnight, with radiator cap on (do not remove).

Best to park vehicle on level or better yet, front end high. Add more to radiator in morning before sun heats the air. Repeat daily until no more needed, to bring level up in to the very top of radiator (cap).

 

[Super77]

With the 98-03 using Toy LL (Red) and mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

We drain both block drains and radiator. Capture every drop in jug, measuring how much comes out. I get about 3 gallons. More or less depending on if I blow out engine and heater cores (~3 2/3 gal.).

We flush, with ~9 gallons of D-water. Add 3 gallon to system (fill) bring to op temp and drain, repeat ( total of 3 times) until clear.

We then have 1 gallon of near pure D-water in the system.

Add 1 gallon of 100% Toy LL (red). We now have about 2 gallons of 50/50 in system.

Mix another gallon of red with gallon of D-water. Then add the 50/50 mix to system and reservoir (Max line).

Run until op temp reached, getting RPM to 3K for at least 2 minutes. let engine cool overnight, with radiator cap on (do not remove).

Best to park vehicle on level or better yet, front end high. Add more to radiator in morning before sun heats the air. Repeat daily until no more needed, to bring level up in to the very top of radiator (cap).

Thank you! I have a gallon of the undiluted red/pink Peak “original manufacturer” coolant for Asian vehicles. Any huge advantage to buying the Toyota LL?

 

[2001LC]

I use only Toyota coolant (98-03 LL, 04-up SLL). One thing I never do, is mix brands.

I once about 10 or 12 years ago, look at Asian. Saw one difference in mixture.