Column shifter tune up

[120mm]

Now that I'm keeping kinda sorta driving my 1969 FJ40 around, I have become fascinated with making the three on the tree as good of a shifter as possible.

I found a bushing for the actual shift lever at Cruiser Cult and ordered it, FJ40 3-speed column shifter bushing - https://cruiser-cult.myshopify.com/products/fj40-3-speed-column-shifter-bushing but I'm interested in tricks and tips others use to keep theirs running in tip top shape.

Picture for attention.

 

[red66toy]

Good to see another column shifter lover. In addition to the bushing, the linkages have several little ball joints. Some of them are still available from Toyota!
33750-26010
33740-26010
One rod has ends that are not replaceable but can be remade using newer parts: Shift Linkage Rebuild? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shift-linkage-rebuild.895146/#post-10095756
Other important bushings on the shifter linkage above the steering box:
90386-13007
33572-36010

 

[120mm]

Good to see another column shifter lover. In addition to the bushing, the linkages have several little ball joints. Some of them are still available from Toyota!
33750-26010
33740-26010
One rod has ends that are not replaceable but can be remade using newer parts: Shift Linkage Rebuild? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/shift-linkage-rebuild.895146/#post-10095756
Other important bushings on the shifter linkage above the steering box:
90386-13007
33572-36010

The column shifter is an amazing tool. Especially to a grandfather of two grand daughters. It allows both amazing critters to sit next to Papa without riding in back or getting bonked in the nose by an elbow.

I replaced all the linkages and ball joints. No problem there.

The bushings, OTOH, are exactly what I need. Thank you!

 

[Skreddy]

The bushings, the joints and then just good adjustment of all the linkages.

The column shift, front bench, little kids bouncing along down forest service roads, makes an awesome driving experience.

 

[120mm]

The bushings, the joints and then just good adjustment of all the linkages.

The column shift, front bench, little kids bouncing along down forest service roads, makes an awesome driving experience.

A friend talked to me about his plans for an FJ40. Souped up LS motor, 37s on a SOA and used the phrase "knock the grandpa off it."

I guess that indirectly influenced my decision to go "full grandpa" on mine.

 

[120mm]

Found one more weak spot that needs work on the shifter not mentioned yet.

That rocker thing that is bolted along with the clutch slave cylinder is as loosey goosey as can be. It's a greasable fitting, but pumping it full doesn't change it that much.

If I knew the part name, I'd have better luck figuring out how to fix/rebuild/replace it.

 

[120mm]

Bellcrank Assembly!!!!

I see they have used ones for sale at SOR, but am a bit suspect of buying a used, high wear part. Would prefer to rebuild.

 

[red66toy]

It looks to be bushing 90380-13007 .. Which is NLA apparently. Can you take it apart and see what the bushing looks like? Maybe we can find one on McMaster.

 

[120mm]

My thoughts exactly.

Will do that post nap.

 

[120mm]

Got the bellcrank off and drove out the bearing.

It is common bronze with a grease hole, 0.972 inches long and 0.625 ish inches diameter. I mic'd the bellcrank hole as well to 0.625 as the bearing is not very round.

The axle it rides on is 0.51 inches

 

[120mm]

I got my first part for "Operation Grandpa Shifter" today.

It took me a moment or two to figure out how to dismount the shifter and the FSM was less than helpful. It literally says that "disassembly is obvious".

Well, the shifter lever is held on by two spring loaded detents that you somehow push in with some kind of pointed item while simultaneously firmly pulling on the stalk. By my math, that either takes a specialty tool or one additional hand. And parts fly everywhere of course.

Luckily I found the detents and spring and most of the other parts were bushing bits so they will get swept up later.

If I were smarter, I would've used a small dab of petroleum jelly on the base of the shifter lever as the new bushing is a nice snug fit.

Reassembled the shifter lever to the column and it works much better now

Only thing to do now is use the hot sauce.

 

[red66toy]

Got the bellcrank off and drove out the bearing.

It is common bronze with a grease hole, 0.972 inches long and 0.625 ish inches diameter. I mic'd the bellcrank hole as well to 0.625 as the bearing is not very round.

The axle it rides on is 0.51 inches

View attachment 3259954

What is the inside diameter of that bushing? Is it noticeably worn out over the 0.51" diameter of the shaft?
@SMG Want to do a run of bronze bushings for the column shifter crowd?

 

[120mm]

The bushing is really oblong I.D. From 0.51 to 0.53

And I would take that 0.51" shaft diameter with a grain of salt. I took it upside down on my head and used a standard micrometer. Will remeasure again today.

I found this on McMaster Carr:

Multipurpose 932 Bearing Bronze Sleeve Bearing for 1/2" Shaft Diameter and 5/8" Housing ID, 1" Long 6381K111

The metric ones weren't close, but I decided to bet $10 to see if I could get this to work, though it would be cool to have one made for that purpose.

 

[120mm]

Funny thing. I reinstalled the bellcrank assembly in order to facilitate work on something else, and it fits and functions better now.

Not perfect or even right, but better. Less wobble and I had to actually coax it into the shaft with the nut and washer as a press. It came off loose

Also, the image in the FSM is not correct. It shows the bellcrank mounted outboard of the clutch slave cylinder and that is physically impossible.

I used to write instructions and things like that rankle me to no end.

 

[red66toy]

Funny thing. I reinstalled the bellcrank assembly in order to facilitate work on something else, and it fits and functions better now.

Not perfect or even right, but better. Less wobble and I had to actually coax it into the shaft with the nut and washer as a press. It came off loose

Also, the image in the FSM is not correct. It shows the bellcrank mounted outboard of the clutch slave cylinder and that is physically impossible.

I used to write instructions and things like that rankle me to no end.

Interesting. Do you think just packing it with fresh grease helped?

 

[middlecalf]

Don’t know if you have issues with the 33574 retainer at the end of the shift column, mine did and they’re NLA. It retains the grease in that joint. Here’s the aftermarket part from McMaster I used and seems to be functioning, so far. Just some more tech info.

Spring-Loaded Rotary Shaft Seal, for 11/16" Shaft Diameter and 0.999" Bore Diameter McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/5154T14

 

[120mm]

Interesting. Do you think just packing it with fresh grease helped?

That's prior to grease getting involved.

I did notice that once I drove the bushing out, it measured out to an oval. Wonder if pressing it back in somehow tightened it up?

Still not what I want in terms of tightness for shifting though, but will leave it in there until a better option presents itself.

Don’t know if you have issues with the 33574 retainer at the end of the shift column, mine did and they’re NLA. It retains the grease in that joint. Here’s the aftermarket part from McMaster I used and seems to be functioning, so far. Just some more tech info.
View attachment 3260694

Spring-Loaded Rotary Shaft Seal, for 11/16" Shaft Diameter and 0.999" Bore Diameter McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/5154T14
View attachment 3260693View attachment 3260692

I also ordered that. Absolutely zero reason not to replace that while I have it torn apart.

 

[120mm]

It took grease (It wasn't really before) and it's functional. Not satisfied with it, but will do for now.

One of the problems is that someone cut a grease zert shorter so it would fit, which means the spring and ball are separate loading, which is why the bushing was marred upon removal. Evidently, the Toyota zert was shorter.

Once assembled, I reinstalled the deconstructed zert, which is way too much fun, based on my stiff hands, the small size of spring, ball and zert, and the constricted location.

33573 Cover on mine is there, though it looks like it's on its way out. I'm assuming it's NLA and am wondering what solutions everyone else has found for that?

Just waiting on parts now....

 

[120mm]

Received the parts and am attempting to install. Problem is, removing the steering wheel is turning into and iron clad b*tch.

And instructions to do so here start with "get a wheel puller." Unfortunately there doesn't appear to be anywhere to hook the dang thing up to.

I've seen folks screw two screws into handy holes, but my wheel don't have no holes.

The hub really doesn't like using regular puller arms in it either.

 

[120mm]

Figured it out. There was an additional plate covering up the screw holes