I've got the Fusible links spare, and a Starter spare. The ECU is new to me, So is it then worth it to get that swapped out with the newer ECU? As in there could be no other answer to all these issues other than a bad ECU?
CODE #83 #84 #85 93FZJ80 issue help (11 Viewers)
- Thread starter Klunky Chris
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I've got the Fusible links spare, and a Starter spare. The ECU is new to me, So is it then worth it to get that swapped out with the newer ECU? As in there could be no other answer to all these issues other than a bad ECU?
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
I don’t know of one. It solved mine and many others’ issues.
semlin
curmudgeon
i would check around your ecu for water and corrosion, apply dieletric grease to all the connectors and check your windshield for leaks and make sure your sunroof drain is not leaking.
i got those codes and never replaced my ecu but i did replace a leaky windshield gasket. the codes went away.
Pulled ECU and looked around it, the thing looks brand new all over and the whole area around it is clean. I did have a windshield replaced but it leaked on the top driver side until they fixed it, other than that the truck is pretty well sealed and no clogged sunroof drains. The only thing slightly suspect was inside the plugs there was some brown liquid but to me it felt oily so I would assume it was factory dielectric grease (let me know if this is a wrong assumption). When you had mentioned looking for leaks the only thing that I have messed with near the ECU was running my second batteries power to the rear of the vehicle I used the grommet thats on the passenger side of the engine compartment but it appears the ECU is still up above that and looks like it has the heater core between it and the grommet. It also hasn't rained at all since it has been acting up and ran fine yesterday after a nice thorough car wash.
Popped the ECU back in, reconnected battery, and it ran with a lot more pep when I first started it up and drove. However as I've driven around 75 miles now I can still feel that same hesitation but not as extreme as when it threw the codes. I'll keep driving it and see if it progressively gets worse over this week.
Will keep you all posted.
Popped the ECU back in, reconnected battery, and it ran with a lot more pep when I first started it up and drove. However as I've driven around 75 miles now I can still feel that same hesitation but not as extreme as when it threw the codes. I'll keep driving it and see if it progressively gets worse over this week.
Will keep you all posted.
semlin
curmudgeon
the factory dielectric grease in my toyota connectors has always been whitish and grease not a liquid. no idea whether what you describe is normal aging and breakdown. if the metal terminals in the plugs clean and uncorroded i am sure it is fine.
it obviously could be the ecu. but i think rather than throw parts at it i'd try and rule out harness damage first or at least while i am waiting for the spare ecu to arrive.
if you had a water leak on the driver's side maybe have a good look up behind the dash with a flashlight from the foot well for signs of corrosion anywhere and maybe pull the foot well kick panels on both sides and inspect there as well.
you will also want to check the wiring harness condition in the engine bay. double check all your grounds. check the harness condition on top of the motor near the egr valve where it is known to break down due to heat. if you have a problem that shows up when the engine gets warm that is where i'd start. it sounds like you have undone some plugs there lately so maybe look at those closely too and do the fsm tests. i imagine a bad connection or ground on the tps could cause ecu error issues.
i'd also look into (very carefully) cleaning the vaf. do not do that with reviewing threads
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Know of a couple early '93 rigs that set that code chain. Both have the newer ECU and we had a couple of spares, swapping them makes no difference. Putting the same ECUs into other OBD1 rigs nets no codes, leading us to believe the problem is else ware. Other than that code string, they exhibit no running issues, so at this point they are being ignored.
Hi All - hopefully bringing this thread back from the dead!
I have a 93 with 180,000 miles and a 60220 ECU that just started throwing 83 84 85 intermittently. Based on this thread and others, the simple and maybe only solution is to buy a 60221 but before I do I have two questions I’m hoping y’all can help me out with:
1) it’s a California truck so I recently jumpered the EGR temp sensor to rid myself of a 71 CEL, which worked, but maybe not so coincidentally, I got the 83, 84 and 85 same day. That said, Land cruiser specialist had my truck a week before and said they had read a few transmission codes but I forgot which codes they mentioned so I’m going to call them Monday to see if they were seeing 83 84 and 85. If they were, that debunks my suspicion that my jumper job may have influenced these codes. Do y’all think the jumper could have contributed to these codes?
2) @cruiserdan my truck was a California truck made in June of 93 and the vin ends in 42896. Based on your comment regarding the dates of ECU, shouldn’t my truck have a 60221? I was surprised to see a 60220. See pics.
thanks for the help!
Josh
I have a 93 with 180,000 miles and a 60220 ECU that just started throwing 83 84 85 intermittently. Based on this thread and others, the simple and maybe only solution is to buy a 60221 but before I do I have two questions I’m hoping y’all can help me out with:
1) it’s a California truck so I recently jumpered the EGR temp sensor to rid myself of a 71 CEL, which worked, but maybe not so coincidentally, I got the 83, 84 and 85 same day. That said, Land cruiser specialist had my truck a week before and said they had read a few transmission codes but I forgot which codes they mentioned so I’m going to call them Monday to see if they were seeing 83 84 and 85. If they were, that debunks my suspicion that my jumper job may have influenced these codes. Do y’all think the jumper could have contributed to these codes?
2) @cruiserdan my truck was a California truck made in June of 93 and the vin ends in 42896. Based on your comment regarding the dates of ECU, shouldn’t my truck have a 60221? I was surprised to see a 60220. See pics.
thanks for the help!
Josh
There could easily be some leeway during the trasition, or the switchover date in the catalog could be incorrect.
In any event your fix will be a 60221, if you can locate a used one. I know of one but it will not be cheap.
In any event your fix will be a 60221, if you can locate a used one. I know of one but it will not be cheap.
Ok good to know, and thanks for the reply! I will let you know if I go your route for getting the part. Thanks!
@cruiserdan
Having the same issue as described above. If I buy a used unit does it need to be reprogrammed or is it plug and play? Is this what I’m looking for ?
www.fs1inc.com
Having the same issue as described above. If I buy a used unit does it need to be reprogrammed or is it plug and play? Is this what I’m looking for ?
89661-60221 | 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L ECM Engine Computer PCM ECU Programmed Plug&Play
Engine Computer fitting all 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser 4.5L models with matching computer service number 89661-60221. This unit is also compatible with the following service number 211000-1081.
www.fs1inc.com
No programming required.
Make absolutely certain that you get a real 60221. Otherwise you are wasting your money
Make absolutely certain that you get a real 60221. Otherwise you are wasting your money
Okay I ordered up a used one on cruiser parts. However the one I received has the second half of the part number scratched off??? I called and asked why and the guy told me it didn’t matter what the part number was and that this one would work. Did I get ripped off? The correct part number is even listed on their website where I bought it.
@cruiserdan
Any help is appreciated.
@cruiserdan
Any help is appreciated.
Unfortunately, cruiserparts does not have a great reputation. They are known to pull incorrect and bad parts all the time. They also appear to be quite difficult to deal with a return.
Do a search here for their reputation.
I would suggest returning it ASAP.
I have a got the same codes 83,84,85 but my ecumenical number is different to all the know faulty ones that I have seen. Mine is built in 07/93 and ecu number is 89661-60190, does anyone know if this is also a faulty one and need to be upgraded
Cheers
Cheers
From what I can see 89661-60190 is a valid number without a suppression. If that is accurate there is no "update" number. You may have your local dealer run that number and see if their database shows a replacement number.
Aren't these the tranny codes we 93 owners are supposed to ignore?
If your tranny shifts fine...roll out. I've had those codes since purchase and nothing indicates a problem.
Code anxiety typically brought about by OBD2.
Don't get caught up in it. lol
edit: forgot to mention this is one thing the recommended 1993 ECU update/upgrade is supposed to address.
If your tranny shifts fine...roll out. I've had those codes since purchase and nothing indicates a problem.
Code anxiety typically brought about by OBD2.
Don't get caught up in it. lol
edit: forgot to mention this is one thing the recommended 1993 ECU update/upgrade is supposed to address.
Last edited:
590-56214 is not a factory number, there is no way to validate it.
@cruiserdan thank you for you many many years of sharing knowledge.
I purchased a 93 triple locked LC80 for a great price in this market... So i thought. I received the same codes 83, 84, 85 codes and ordered the ECU(Won't arrive for another 2 weeks). The truck ran great, no issues besides a fuse that kept popping for the gauges(had an appointment with electrician to find and fix)
At this point I had driven approx. 250 miles on it without issue. I drove to work (16 miles) have it parked for 3 hrs and get in to take off. The engine buckles and shuts off. But turned back on and began driving 50 ft and then she completely shuts off.
As I began to diagnose, I find a video to check efi relay and fusible links. I replace both but still no start. I check for spark and nothing. I replace the distributor cap and rotor and still no spark.
We begin to check every component to look for a short and no luck. My buddy was looking at the electrical diagram and decides to stick a paper clip in the efi fuse relay on the 1 and 4 locations and suddenly she starts.... we ended up putting 25 Amp fuse on there and she runs perfect. He is thinking it is the Volume airflow meter thinking the relay isn't being tripped there.... any ideas?
Below is the issue
Link to video of issue
I purchased a 93 triple locked LC80 for a great price in this market... So i thought. I received the same codes 83, 84, 85 codes and ordered the ECU(Won't arrive for another 2 weeks). The truck ran great, no issues besides a fuse that kept popping for the gauges(had an appointment with electrician to find and fix)
At this point I had driven approx. 250 miles on it without issue. I drove to work (16 miles) have it parked for 3 hrs and get in to take off. The engine buckles and shuts off. But turned back on and began driving 50 ft and then she completely shuts off.
As I began to diagnose, I find a video to check efi relay and fusible links. I replace both but still no start. I check for spark and nothing. I replace the distributor cap and rotor and still no spark.
We begin to check every component to look for a short and no luck. My buddy was looking at the electrical diagram and decides to stick a paper clip in the efi fuse relay on the 1 and 4 locations and suddenly she starts.... we ended up putting 25 Amp fuse on there and she runs perfect. He is thinking it is the Volume airflow meter thinking the relay isn't being tripped there.... any ideas?
Below is the issue
Link to video of issue
