Code 52 woes. What should I do next? (1 Viewer)

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Nov 25, 2013
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Location
Lakewood, Ohio
This code 52 is killing me. 90% of my frustration is my fault as I had transposed the the two codes...joys of learning disabilities. Ugh.

Now that I’m done whining, I’m objectively at a loss here. Here’s what I’ve done:

- spliced in a new male pigtail as the OEM connector was missing and RTV was used as a bonding agent
- tested knock sensor ohms, passed
- scraped the RTV out of the knock sensor
- stuffed sensor cavity with dielectric grease
- plugged everything back together
- 2 separate drives around town and no code
- drove on the freeway this morning, code 52 is back

RTV in sensor
2398B2AE-D473-4040-91F5-DFCF7EFBF22A.jpeg

RTV on female / missing OEM clip
1FA8DB8E-16F0-4140-9ADB-61BFC344A041.jpeg


Splicing, pre solder
View attachment 1646331

BC66C94C-5F24-495B-BA4D-472D58E0A7F3.jpeg
 
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You probably already know this, but for the sake of completeness:
upload_2018-3-5_10-0-27.png

So you have three options, two of which are the switch, or harness connection to it. If you've replaced the switch and checked it to verify that it's good, do the same for the harness connector. Especially check the terminal connections inside the connector.

I'd suggest cleaning both sides and sealing it with dielectric when you're done.

CRC QD 11 oz. Contact Cleaner-02130-6 - The Home Depot
(make SURE you only use the "plastic safe" cleaner; the other kind WILL dissolve your connector)
https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...se/permatex-dielectric-tune-up-grease/34495_0
 
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The troubleshooting chart for the ECM is thin:
upload_2018-3-5_10-2-49.png
 
Connectors are A, B, C, D from right to left
KNK1 is number 6, connector C
(see EWD below)
upload_2018-3-5_10-3-9.png
 
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I've never had this problem, but my guess is that the circuit is simple enough that you should be able to trace it with a multimeter. Otherwise, Mr. T would have included a fault tree, as for the items on EG-234.
 
The front knock sensor is K1, the rear is K2.
upload_2018-3-5_10-7-24.png
 
You sure on the code? Engine running fine? I had a 25 and 52 simultaneously. Caused by an injector that came unplugged during egr delete. Was confusing for me when watching the blinking cel. Just checking so you aren't chasing ghosts.
 
You sure on the code? Engine running fine? I had a 25 and 52 simultaneously. Caused by an injector that came unplugged during egr delete. Was confusing for me when watching the blinking cel. Just checking so you aren't chasing ghosts.

Yeah I checked a few times, I’ll have my wife look at it too just for good measure.
 
FWIW, soldering harness splices is a bad idea. The solder joint is brittle and will fail under constant vibratory stress. A proper crimp connection, with proper sealing against environmental exposure, is a lifetime splice.
 
FWIW, soldering harness splices is a bad idea. The solder joint is brittle and will fail under constant vibratory stress. A proper crimp connection, with proper sealing against environmental exposure, is a lifetime splice.

Huh. Good to know. I thought for some reason soldering was the best connection. this is the second time this weekend I’ve read about soldering not being ideal, well not the weekend any longer but...you get the idea.
 
@Malleus this is very helpful. Thank you

I’m electronically incompetent and I’m going to ask a couple questions that may reveal just how severe this incompetence is, ha ha.

1. To test the harness’ continuity with a multimeter, would I stick one probe in the harness connector at KNK1 and the other at ecm connector?

2. The “switch” in your first comment is KNK1, correct? And if so the switch is triggered by the engine knocking?
 
@Malleus this is very helpful. Thank you

I’m electronically incompetent and I’m going to ask a couple questions that may reveal just how severe this incompetence is, ha ha.

1. To test the harness’ continuity with a multimeter, would I stick one probe in the harness connector at KNK1 and the other at ecm connector?

2. The “switch” in your first comment is KNK1, correct? And if so the switch is triggered by the engine knocking?
1. Yes, but that harness is really long. Like 10 feet long. I'm not kidding. I have one sitting in front of me. I'd run a jumper from either end and check the end of that jumper and the connection.
2. Yes. Good question, I've never had a reason to look up the knock sensor. Now I do. I'll let you know, if no one beats me to it.
 
I have a gently used oem knock sensor and main engine wire harness nearby you may have. I don't think it would really help you out but it might.
Also, could this be another hot EGR pipe melts wire problem?

As for the drives around town then it throwing code on the highway...my wagon ecu takes about 19 miles and 6 start ups to relearn and throw a code. You may have never really "fixed" the problem to begin with.

p.s. I'm swapping in a motor and have some odds and ends I don't need. So, if there are any other used parts you may be thinking about let me know. If I have them you can have them.
 
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That’s a great offer! I agree that I haven’t fixed the issue.

I’ll search more on the hot EGR pipe issues, it could be the case. It could also be the sensor I have isn’t clean enough.
 
1. Yes, but that harness is really long. Like 10 feet long. I'm not kidding. I have one sitting in front of me. I'd run a jumper from either end and check the end of that jumper and the connection.
2. Yes. Good question, I've never had a reason to look up the knock sensor. Now I do. I'll let you know, if no one beats me to it.

This makes sense. Would I be testing in ohms?
 
FWIW, Mr. T has a "help me out":

Another advantage of using TIS.
 

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I don’t think I know the full story here but I’m wondering if you have simply tried new OEM or Denso knock sensors? I see that you did the bench test but that’s a bench test and not real world.
 
So after a little digging, it seems these are simple piezoelectric switches. You should be able to bench test them adquately by connecting a meter to them and smacking them to initiate a current spike. If you have a gee-whiz digital multimeter, set it to record the highest value, then you won't have to do three things at once.
 

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