Code 52 woes. What should I do next? (1 Viewer)

[HAAANK]

So after a little digging, it seems these are simple piezoelectric switches. You should be able to bench test them adquately by connecting a meter to them and smacking them to initiate a current spike. If you have a gee-whiz digital multimeter, set it to record the highest value, then you won't have to do three things at once.

I’ll try this again Saturday. My multimeter is a HF digital model. Perhaps it meets gee-whiz certification standards?

 

[Malleus]

I'd say so. Beats my Radio Shack analog meter (but not my Fluke)

 

[Malleus]

FWIW, I just found this. Doesn't directly relate to either of us, as it applies to '96 and newer OBDIIs, but still interesting.

 

[HAAANK]

I'd say so. Beats my Radio Shack analog meter (but not my Fluke)

I don't know I'm easily confused by my digital meter. I grew up using an analog and feel less like a total noob. ha ha

 

[HAAANK]

I don’t think I know the full story here but I’m wondering if you have simply tried new OEM or Denso knock sensors? I see that you did the bench test but that’s a bench test and not real world.

OEM, says Toyota on it, so I assume it is.

 

[Malleus]

Based on what I've read, the knock sensor is a piezo switch. Bench testing it is equivalent to installing it, as long as it's installed properly and there are no connector or harness problems.

 

[HAAANK]

After several trips and on/off cycles I’m confident the code has gone away...so I’m assuming it’s fixed. Guess it takes a couple starts and stops to get the code cleared or ECU learned? Either way I’m happy. Thanks for all the help!

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

FWIW, soldering harness splices is a bad idea. The solder joint is brittle and will fail under constant vibratory stress. A proper crimp connection, with proper sealing against environmental exposure, is a lifetime splice.

I have, as a mechanic and former owner operator of a small shop never seen a proper solder splice fail. I have however seen crimp jobs cause complete meltdowns of wiring harnesses and small car fires...from stereo Installs and lazy hacks using butt connectors and crimps...even the heat shrink crimps to add electrical systems to their cars or to repair broken wires. If you properly splice wires together and then heat them and flow solder into them so that the solder actually flows between wires and then heat shrink tube over the joint, they don't break apart. Cold solder jobs done improperly may, but not when done correctly. I've used soldering over crimps for decades and never had a failed joint.