Clutch/Tranny issues (2 Viewers)

[1962fj40]

I didn't get much feedback on my other posts regarding my clutch issues, so I thought I'd try another approach.

1962 FJ40 F engine with a SM420 tranny.

When in gear it feels like it's surging forward. Going into 2nd the same, but I hear a clunking sound. Was thinking that the Clutch plate might be the problem as it has some difficulty shifting. Clutch pedal seems a but soft as well.


Robert

 

[brian]

Completely bled slave/master?

 

[Skreddy]

And pedal/ slave rod adjusted properly?

Can you describe surging better?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Maybe your clutch pads are warped/worn/delaminating.... You can get a borescope for a phone for like $30. Then you can look around in there and see what's up. While you are there good time change the gear oil - Look for glitter and scum on the plug. Check your u-joints too. +1 for bleed/adjust the cylinders

 

[pbgbottle]

Was your other thread about your 3 finger clutch. ?

 

[1962fj40]

Completely bled slave/master?

No, but it hasn't been apart or leaving. Fluid levels in the Master Cylinder have been unchanged for several years.

Robert

 

[charliemeyer007]

Brake fluid sucks up water - could easily rust inside and jam up full movement.

 

[1962fj40]

And pedal/ slave rod adjusted properly?

Can you describe surging better?

Yes, they were double checked recently as well as the Clutch Lever to Bell Housing face adjustment.

The surging/lurching is the feeling at a fairly constant rpm and will bog down. Going to 2nd gear from 1st gear and slowing down I will hear a knocking coming from the transmission area. I do have the transmission hump out, so I might be hearing noises that I normally wouldn't notice.

Robert

 

[pb4ugo]

Sounds like your not getting complete clutch disengagement or the input is hanging up on the pilot bearing. I think checking, bleeding or adjusting the clutch is easier. The master could be leaking internally.

 

[1962fj40]

Maybe your clutch pads are warped/worn/delaminating.... You can get a borescope for a phone for like $30. Then you can look around in there and see what's up. While you are there good time change the gear oil - Look for glitter and scum on the plug. Check your u-joints too. +1 for bleed/adjust the cylinders

I do have an inspection camera, but it's highly unlikely the clutch disk is warped or worn. I tore everything apart not too long ago and resurfaced the flywheel, inspected the clutch disk and release bearing.

Other thread is here with pics:

Clutch woes

Tearing the clutch down after release bearing issues. I noticed some cracks on the flywheel and wear marks on the flywheel bolts as well as wear on clutch disc springs. Evidently there is a clearance issue between the two. This is on my 1962 FJ40 F engine with a SM420 conversion. Any ideas what...

forum.ih8mud.com

Robert

 

[1962fj40]

Brake fluid sucks up water - could easily rust inside and jam up full movement.

Good point. I will look into that. Thanks for the idea.

 

[3_puppies]

SM420? does that use a pilot bushing? could there be an issue there?

did this start all of a sudden?

 

[1962fj40]

SM420? does that use a pilot bushing? could there be an issue there?

did this start all of a sudden?

Yes (Part of the SM420 kit from Advanced Adapters), it's a bit longer than the stock one as the SM420 is slightly shorter overall length. Before putting things back together, greased the inner race of the bearing.

You can see a picture of it on this earlier thread:

Clutch woes

Tearing the clutch down after release bearing issues. I noticed some cracks on the flywheel and wear marks on the flywheel bolts as well as wear on clutch disc springs. Evidently there is a clearance issue between the two. This is on my 1962 FJ40 F engine with a SM420 conversion. Any ideas what...

forum.ih8mud.com

Robert

 

[pb4ugo]

In my experience all pilot bearings/bushings I've installed are flush with the end of the crank bore. So looking at your previous thread "Clutch woes" it appears your bushing is flush with the end of the crank also. If this bushing is longer, shouldn't it be sitting proud or stick out from the end of the crank to engage the 420's shorter input shaft. In your pics from the thread it also appears there are some swirl marks and is shiny on the face of the bushing too. If you decide to drop the tranny, you might reinstall it without the clutch, t/o bearing and pp and see how or if the 420's input shaft engages the pilot bushing.

 

[pbgbottle]

Like mentioned that pilot bearing should be sticking out at least 1/2 inch to support the tip. If there is any misalignment with the transmission to the bellhousing it will cause issues and premature failure of the clutch disc. I used a 4sp adapter plate to my Toyota 4sp and V8. And one of the dowel pins was too long just by a hair and it would not disengage the disc properly and round out the pilot bearing in a couple months. Transmission out of alignment would wallow out the bearing and break the disc hub loose in the disc. Needs to be dead Center all most to work perfectly. By looking at your pilot bearing and damage on the face of it. It looks too short to me. Tip of input shaft not supported properly. Even on my V8 plate adapter to Toyota 4 speed I left the pilot bearing sticking out some to support the tip. If I had left it sticking out to much the input shaft would push it in to wear it needed to be as I tightened up the transmission mounting bolts. The pilot bearing is a critical piece. Is your bellhousing surfaces all clean also. Anyways just my rambling after seeing pics of your pilot bearing it looks short.

 

[pbgbottle]

Do you have the pilot bearing spacer behind the pilot bearing there is usually a spacer used along with the pilot bearing, I looked at my old info I had saved and some used a pilot bearing spacer. Also an indexing ring did you use the indexing ring ? . How’s the sleeve for the Toyota TO bearing is that in good condition and on square. The TO slides freely on it. More pondering I’m just tossing out some more ideas.

 

[1962fj40]

In my experience all pilot bearings/bushings I've installed are flush with the end of the crank bore. So looking at your previous thread "Clutch woes" it appears your bushing is flush with the end of the crank also. If this bushing is longer, shouldn't it be sitting proud or stick out from the end of the crank to engage the 420's shorter input shaft. In your pics from the thread it also appears there are some swirl marks and is shiny on the face of the bushing too. If you decide to drop the tranny, you might reinstall it without the clutch, t/o bearing and pp and see how or if the 420's input shaft engages the pilot bushing.

Not really sure about the length of the pilot bearing, but it's been installed for 15 years. I believe the swirl marks are just from the manufacturing. The input shaft shows no abnormal wear. With the SM420 being slightly shorter, I doubt this would cause any wear on the pilot bearing. If anything it would give clearance so that shouldn't happen. I did just recently drop the tranny. That's where must of these pics came from.

Robert

 

[1962fj40]

Do you have the pilot bearing spacer behind the pilot bearing there is usually a spacer used along with the pilot bearing, I looked at my old info I had saved and some used a pilot bearing spacer. Also an indexing ring did you use the indexing ring ? . How’s the sleeve for the Toyota TO bearing is that in good condition and on square. The TO slides freely on it. More pondering I’m just tossing out some more ideas.

I don't recall a spacer or index ring, Keep in mind this is a 1962 FJ40. Many things are a bit different. TO sleeve is fine. No clearance issues with the bearing.

Robert