Clutch Slave, plate questions (1 Viewer)

[Beeroux]

Hey Y'all.

my 72' FJ55 is leaking from the slave. Should I re-build or replace? Seems like some here have re-built many times, maybe a replacement is best.

I sucked enough air into the line last night ( reservoir emptied ) that the clutch wouldn't work. Being out in the sticks of Anza Borrego, I simply cracked the bleeder and let it drip for about ten minutes, keeping the res topped of of course.

It worked. I have a clutch again.

My clutch plate ( and perhaps more? ) is pretty smoked. It just spins on steep hills. Do I need just the plate or the whole plate/ flywheel deal-bob? I'm not really sure what's all in there, not being much of a mechanic. But I'm trying.

Thanks for your help!
-George
Anza Borrego

 

[Plowboy]

AS far as the clutch slave, I suggest buying a new one and rebuilding the old as a spare. (just in case). When you put the new one one check the old for scores in the barrel.. That is what make them fail 99% of the time. Hone it out and put in a kit.

 

[65swb45]

1. It would be a rare thing indeed if a smoked clutch disc wore ONLY the flywheel OR the pressure plate. Usually they both suffer.

And in your case, since you have all the extra weight of the FJ55 [probably still suffering with a 3 speed no less] I would definitely service all three.

Best

Mark A.

 

[DougAustinTx]

I would make sure that the slave wasn't adjusted too long and engaging the throwout bearing when no pressure was applied to the clutch before assuming the clutch and pressure plate are bad. Just crawl under the beast and unhook the assist spring on the side of the slave. Then move the actuator rod by hand or with a lever and see if there is at least 1/4" slack in the rod before it engages the throwout bearing against the pressure plate. Don't forget to reattach the assist spring when you're done. By the way, some new slaves are coming from the factory with internal springs that are way too strong and too long and are not retracting properly. In truth, you don't even need the internal spring in the slave cylinder. I took the internal spring out of my son's slave and it works just fine now.

 

[okieshan]

Mine had same slippage symptom. Pulled the inspection cover to find a critically thin clutch. Dropped the tranny/transfer and removed last week...clutch had sections missing! Going back together tonight. Hope yours is just an adjustment issue!

 

[Pighead]

Should I re-build or replace?

If you can find a rebuild kit, it's an easy rebuild. Replacement slaves can generally be found for cheap. I prefer to rebuild.
You probably want to also source a master, or master rebuild kit at the same time. Generally when you r&r either the slave or the master, the other will fail soon after. Easier to do both and bleed only once.

 

[hairy_apple]

You can get a rebuild kit for both the slave and the master from Toyota still. I just got one for the slave a month ago for my leaking 40.

Oddly enough, I've never HAD to rebuild the master. The slave I've done 3 times now since I owned my 40. I did rebuild the master when I put the V8 in, only because I was hell bent on making everything new and shiny and not having to worry about any part of it for a while.

 

[Beeroux]

Thanks for the good feedback Gents.

I've just been out in the Anza Borrego sticks for the holiday, and the Lil' Piggy really needs some TLC.

I will find the inspection window ( didn't know I had one! ) and rebuild the slave, if not both slave and master.

I'll let ya know what I find.

Thanks for the help!
George