Clutch slave hose issue

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Joined
Jul 24, 2009
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I noticed the hose from clutch master hard-line to slave is dry rotting and want to replace it.
Ordered a stainless from SOR for my 71 and found a problem with the fitting going into the slave.It's too small.
Curious as to what year slave I might have or is it a Non-LC slave altogether.
Here's a pic of the current setup
DSCN0217.webp
 
Howdy! Looks EOM to me. Contact Sor AND ask if there was a size change/model year issue, like the one for the brake lines. That hose is basically just another brake line. John
 
Thing is though (just learned in my current clutch-issue-thread) that your bleed valve is supposed to be on top, not bottom, like yourse is now.
 
Ya he,ll have to bleed it whith it off.Good eye.
Howdy! Well if he takes it off, then he might as well put it back on right side up. Duh, unless that is one for the right side of the bellhousing. That might explain the hose fitting problem?? John
 
i think you could flip it over but it looks like the one on my 76 and if you have to order another hose you might try www.jtoutfitters.com or there ebay site. i ordered a new stainless braided hose from them ($49.00 ) and got a brand new slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder for free (made by aisin) with my order :lol::lol::lol:
 
Howdy! Well if he takes it off, then he might as well put it back on right side up. Duh, unless that is one for the right side of the bellhousing. That might explain the hose fitting problem?? John
If he turns it upside down the plunger will be on an unexeptible angle to operate properly.Duh!
 
if so he could mod the bracket :D i like to have things right side up when possible.
 
If he turns it upside down the plunger will be on an unexeptible angle to operate properly.Duh!
Howdy! Well, I realize it is only a Haynes manual, but they borrow most of their diagrams from Toyota. All 5 0r 6 diagrams of the clutch slave show it with the body mounted above the mounting bolts. That puts the bleed nipple above the hose. According to that, FJNutter has his upside down. Now, granted, I am running mine on a 350 Chevy, but I also have mine mounted with the body above bolts, and the push rod is straight in line with the input shaft on the tranny. Now, to reduce the stress and strain on the hose where it has to go uphill(right where his hose is wearing out), I put on a right angle fitting on the end of the slave. Now the hose has lots of slack. John
 
So the slave is friggin upside down?:mad:
Not my doing
I just might order 1 of those "all in one" combos-master to braided hose to slave

Thanks for the heads up
 
So the slave is friggin upside down?:mad:
Not my doing
I just might order 1 of those "all in one" combos-master to braided hose to slave

Thanks for the heads up
Howdy! Yup. Easy enough to do. It still will work that way, obviously. But, it will work easier, and last longer if it is right side up. If you get a complete replacement setup, then you will have a complete backup system in your trail kit. Hydraulic clutches have been known to fail at really bad times/locations. John
 
They do make a right and left side slave and they are cheap like 28.00 .goto NAPA or any prts store and get one for a 3B engine with the H55 trans ,will bolt right on and is the right side.Around 1982.
 
there are a couple different size slaves and a couple different hose fittings depending on year of the truck .ive had mine on my mud truck upside down for 15 years and it hasnt caused a problem.that was the way with v8 conversions and it bleads just fine .
 
The clutch engagement works fine as it is.I just need to replace the hose before it explodes.
I just don't know what hose fitting size is at the slave end.
The current setup is with a SBC and stock 3 speed tranny
 
The clutch engagement works fine as it is.I just need to replace the hose before it explodes.
I just don't know what hose fitting size is at the slave end.
The current setup is with a SBC and stock 3 speed tranny
I take it you havent taken it apart to accually see if they are different or not because some hoses come with a different nut size.
 
You are correct

I haven't actually taken it apart yet.Trying to minimize downtime so I thought someone might recognize what hose I actually have.

I just looked at the slave again and the way it is now the pushrod is at a bit of an angle . If I flip it, the pushrod will be at a much worse angle.


dunno
 
This slave cylinder is mounted onto a Downey or AA Chevota slave cylinder mounting bracket that aligns the slave with the shift fork, regardless of bleeder valve position. My experience has been that all slave cylinders have a 10mm thread (evidently some older 60's cylinders could have had the smaller 9mm thread?). Now the problem is that the 10mm thread on slave cylinders is deeper than the threads on brake lines, consequently those trying to use brake hoses on slave cylinders would find that their male threads bottom-out before a seal has been made (i.e. hose male threads not fully seated in slave cylinder female threads). When we supplied our SS brake hose for slave cylinder use, we provided a copper washer to become the seal since the male threads would not seat deep enough into the slave cylinder.
 
Well, Im just going to remove the hose and see what I got.
Fuel pump just went down with the bismark so the FJ will be idle for a bit
The braided hose I bought did come with a copper washer so it might all work out
 

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