Clutch replacment advice

[Devil's Slide Doug]

Yes I have searched but am unclear on what the best replacment clutch is for my truck.
The clutch is finally slipping (briefly on occasion when starting out in the morning or when down shifting on steep highway grades)
background:
The truck has a 22re (with header) with 4.88's and 33" tires. The stock clutch lasted about 180,000 miles of daily driving through hilly San Francisco, occasional Rubicon trip (with stock tcase gears) and some towing.
Clutch replacement is a necessity which will slightly postpone the engine refresh which will include at the very least a slightly souped up head and cam and new timing chain done by either yodaman or myself using ted's parts.
The new clutch needs to handle the the power from the all so not mighty newish motor and deal with the newer larger tires and crawl box etc. which are also in the future.
Not sure if the original clutch's life was typical but am hoping for a similar lifespan out of the replacement despite more demanding use. Is this possible?
I am considering OEM, Marlin (heavy duty or competition) or centerforce.

 

[KLF]

Five people will respond with 5 different answers. It's like oil brands, a personal preference. I only use Amsoil for lubes, OEM for clutches. I helped my son put a Marlin HD in his 4Runner this Fall, it was decent. Others will tell you Centerforce.

One common theme: stay away from cheapo AutoZone clutches.

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

I will definitely avoid vato zone or kragens. Marlin's was where I was leaning if not oem. a rear main seal will be ordered from cruiser dan regardless of which clutch i go with.

 

[nailbender]

180K isn't too shabby why not Toyota

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

180K isn't too shabby why not Toyota

There are a lot of good reasons to stick with oem parts but as we modify and demand more from our vehicles there are logical places to upgrade. I am reluctant to throw away perfectly good oem components but am willing to upgrade when the oem parts are no longer up to the task. My truck is heavier and has larger tires than when it was stock (28") and is wheeled harder than when it was brand new so it might make sense to beef up the clutch just as I have with other parts. Of course some super genius might point out that torque of a 22re simply doesnt warrant a clutch with 1,800 ft lbs of clamping force and that anything beyond oem is simply overkill while still having a shorter life. An example would be if i were to run longfields in a full time 4wheel drive truck daily driver (which would wear out much faster than the oem birfields in that application). Since I have to tear into it I simply want as good if not better than stock in every respect.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

It was a toss-up for me between one of the Marlin clutches, LC-Engineering's Pro-Street clutch and a centerforce. I finally went with the LC product as I was placing a big order with them anyway. I've been quite happy with it. It supposidly has 2x OEM holding power and the pedal feels just like OEM.

I would stay away from the ceramic clutches. They are totally digital (i.e. no feathering whatsoever). Otherwise, as KLF suggested, just stay away from the $54 special at the local parts house.

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

I would stay away from the ceramic clutches. They are totally digital (i.e. no feathering whatsoever). Otherwise, as KLF suggested, just stay away from the $54 special at the local parts house.

Your saying they are on or off. that is a good thing to know (along with greater wear and tear on the fly wheel). feathering is important to me since I dont have a crawl box yet.

 

[toy4xfun]

i have a center force, and i like it very much, do not get anything but the center force I, the rest put to much stress on your slave. also i would replace that when you replace your clutch. and check your master to make sure it is not leaking.