Clutch Replacement

[skiakhokie]

I'm going to be redoing my clutch soon. I'm looking around for kits and not sure what's the best option. I'm not doing centerforce because I can't afford it right now. I think my best options are SOR or JT's.

I was just wondering if anyone has any feedback on the kits they've used or heard about.

What are the clips for in the SOR kit? Do I really need them? Do I need the rear main seal? The JT kit doesn't have it...

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[haystax]

Looking for the same info myself.

Rear main seal - change it because it is cheap and you have access to it when you do the clutch. i would also have the flywheel turned while you are at it.

 

[skiakhokie]

having the flywheel turned? is this the same theory/practice as turning brake rotors? Why would you need to turn the flywheel...? This is the first I've heard of this, please elaborate...

 

[haystax]

Yeah, the flywheel face will have wear from the old pressure plate and this will wear the new pressure plate unevenly and probably rob some longevity and performance from the new clutch. It will grab better because there won't be residue from previous pressure plate glazed onto the flywheel.

Check your ring gear too, they are generally pretty cheap (not sure on a Cruiser though) and another thing to do while the flywheel is out.

Anyone else gonna help us out with which source or brand to go with?

 

[eddybear]

I got a clutch kit from Spector and have been very pleased w/ it for my 1972 FJ55. I replaced the main seal at the time and since the flywheel was shot totally I got a resurfaced one from Man-A-Free. Might as well do it right all at the same time. I get 90% of my parts from Spector and they are great to deal w/. Heard some bad things about dealing w/ JT, tho I don't have any first hand experience w/ them.

Eddy

 

[CruisinGA]

I got a clutch from JTO, no problems. I cannot recommend them, however, due to the high chance of you never gettin your part. (They are bad on the buisness end).

Replace the rear main while you are there, and have the flywheel turned. A non-turned flywheel often creates clutch chatter, etc.

If the pilot bearing won't come out, you've got two tricks to use:
Grease trick-pack the cavity behind the bearing with grease, use a drift or ratchet extension and jam in through the ID of the bearing, the hydraulic pressure created should pop the bearing out.

Another method is to take a large carraige bolt, and grind the head into a hook, then using a large washer or socket, "hook" the pilot bearing with it and use it like a gear puller. "Alf" and I used this technique friday night to pull his pilot bearing.

 

[dentedpig]

You can also get a pilot bearing puller for $20 and a slide hammer. I pulled mine out yesterday and boy was it stuck good. Also check the fit of your new pilot bearing to the end of the tranny shaft. It should be a slip fit, if not, bust out the emery cloth.

 

[skiakhokie]

what's the ring gear?

 

[TJDIV]

OK, my turn to be retarded, as I haven't looked into this yet;

I've got a chevy 250 with a stock 3 speed. Should just need the 3 speed clutch correct?

 

[e rock]

[quote author=TJDIV link=board=1;threadid=16448;start=msg158350#msg158350 date=1084804848]
OK, my turn to be retarded, as I haven't looked into this yet;

I've got a chevy 250 with a stock 3 speed. Should just need the 3 speed clutch correct?
[/quote]

You'll need the clutch (friction) disc for the 3 Speed. You'll need a pressure plate to match the flywheel which, presumably, is the stock one from the 250. The flywheel and pressure plate actually bolt together and need to match. The friction disc just spins between the two and gets clamped, so it just needs to match the input shaft of the tranny and be about the right diameter.

Eric