Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (1 Viewer)

[WDT Siri]

Rudi
My gratitude to you for all the research work done on Clusters and Gauges.
The Fuel gauge of my BJ 40 (1982 24V) stopped working & I found that the Dropper Resistor does not gives out 12V to the fuel gauge. 24V comes out of it.

I made an Electronic unit using LM 317 Regulator & which gives out around 7.08 V. There are 3 terminals on the rear of the Fuel Gauge & to which shall I give this 7V ?
I presume that it is the middle one, by- passing the mechanical regulator. Kindly advice. Thank you

 

[45Dougal]

Rudi
My gratitude to you for all the research work done on Clusters and Gauges.
The Fuel gauge of my BJ 40 (1982 24V) stopped working & I found that the Dropper Resistor does not gives out 12V to the fuel gauge. 24V comes out of it.

I made an Electronic unit using LM 317 Regulator & which gives out around 7.08 V. There are 3 terminals on the rear of the Fuel Gauge & to which shall I give this 7V ?
I presume that it is the middle one, by- passing the mechanical regulator. Kindly advice. Thank you

Yes the middle one - it also feeds straight across to the temp gauge

 

[WDT Siri]

Thank you 45Dougal

 

[PuKE]

First off, Thank You Rudy for the this awesome thread!
I'm trying to get my Temp and Oil gauges to work in my 74 (3rd gen cluster). All gauges pass the 3.4W light test and all sending units put out enough ohms.
Is this scratch at terminal A(+) causing a short???
If so what can I cover it to stop the short?

Thank You to All You Cruiser Heads in advance!!!

 

[charliemeyer007]

I don't think that is your issue. Several layers of nail polish should provide insulation and cover it.

 

[45Dougal]

First off, Thank You Rudy for the this awesome thread!
I'm trying to get my Temp and Oil gauges to work in my 74 (3rd gen cluster). All gauges pass the 3.4W light test and all sending units put out enough ohms.
Is this scratch at terminal A(+) causing a short???
If so what can I cover it to stop the short?

Thank You to All You Cruiser Heads in advance!!!

View attachment 3840153

If your gauges and senders appear to be working correctly, then my next guess would be a bad connection in the harness somewhere in between.
Check the gauge has power to it, and then try running a wire from the temp sender directly to the gauge.

 

[PuKE]

If your gauges and senders appear to be working correctly, then my next guess would be a bad connection in the harness somewhere in between.
Check the gauge has power to it, and then try running a wire from the temp sender directly to the gauge.

That's what I figured too. Already on it

 

[PuKE]

That's what I figured too. Already on it

 

[BuckMark]

Thank you so much! I just ordered a new circuit board. Hopefully that will solve my problem. My temperature gauge started working for some reason. I have no idea why and it has all week. Just my fuel gauge is not working now. Maybe this will solve that problem

Hi Nolacajun75, I have a similar problem on my clusters circuit board, one of my bulbs trace has been broken, no illumination on the left side of cluster. Where were you able to order a replacement circuit board? I haven’t been able to locate one for my 78’. Thanks

 

[CruiserInProgress]

Hi Nolacajun75, I have a similar problem on my clusters circuit board, one of my bulbs trace has been broken, no illumination on the left side of cluster. Where were you able to order a replacement circuit board? I haven’t been able to locate one for my 78’. Thanks

BuckMark,
Fyi - If the problem you're having is just due to a broken trace on the speedo circuit board, you may be able to solder a jumper wire across the gap/break or maybe just a little solder blob. Clean and sand the tarnish off in the spot first so the solder sticks to both sides of the break. A little flux helps too.

 

[45Dougal]

Yea these boards are really simple - a soldering iron is cheaper than a new board and keeps it original
Scrape off the blue varnish; you can replace it later with nail varnish or similar.
A short length of copper wire to bridge the gap might help - watch out where you route it if its near the connector.

 

[BuckMark]

Thanks for the advice guys, I think I can handle the repair if it’s that simple. I guess I’ve got a summer soldering project

 

[John McVicker]

Depending on the situation you can solder it or bridge it. Here’s a picture of mine where I’ve done both.

 

[BuckMark]

This is the pic I took before putting it in. (I found it in the glove box when I bought the 40). Looking at the pic now, I see where the PO has elec tape covering traces, I’ll bet your proposed fix is just what it needs-Thanks