Clusters, Gauges, Speedo & Odo meters (4 Viewers)

[hey you]

Thanks Rudi! I have a second generation cluster. For an unknown reason, the Amp gauge came loose and shorted the instrument panel. I lost the Temp and Fuel readings. I did the testing per the FSM manual and this post. I'm not getting any of the results as expected. So, I think the Temp and Fuel gauges are dead. I'll start looking for replacements, including new temp sensor. Thanks again!

 

[hey you]

Sorry, 3rd generation cluster.

 

[Cruiser68]

Hi
These nuts drives me nuts!
I can not seem to find the right thread.
I've found and bought some m5x0,75 but I only get 2/3s of the nut on then it gets stuck.
Anyone knows the correct thread pitch ?

 

[cuencanolenny]

I knew there were two as I have the kit contents shown below. But a number of places only listed .8 pitch.

• Item 21749 is a 40-piece metric tap and die set in plastic case that includes the following: tap and 1″ hexagon die sizes 3 mm x 0.50 taper, 3 mm x 0.60 taper, 4 mm x 0.70 taper, 4 mm x 0.75 taper, 5 mm x 0.80 taper, 5 mm x 0.90 taper, 6 mm x 1.00 taper, 7 mm x 1.00 taper, 8 mm x 1.25 taper, 9 mm x 1.00 plug, 9 mm x 1.25 plug, 10 mm x 1.25 plug, 10 mm x 1.50 plug, 11 mm x 1.50 plug, 12 mm x 1.50 plug, 12 mm x 1.75 plug and 1/8-28 BSP pipe; one tap wrench for tap sizes No. 4 through 1/2″; one die stock for 1″ round or hexagon dies; one T-handle tap wrench for tap sizes No. 0 through 1/4″; one T-handle tap wrench for tap sizes 1/4″ through 1/2″; one metric thread gauge for 0.45 mm to 2.50 mm threads; and one No. 5 screwdriver

 

[Cruiser68]

Thanks
Then i'll try to order m5x0.8 , hopefully it will fit

 

[jjh123]

Hello all, I need a little help fixing my temp gauge. My truck is a 1980 FJ43 from Colombia. Temp gauge has not worked since I purchased it. The gauge itself works, and after testing the sending unit after driving I got a reading of 170ohms. On the rear of my cluster there is a 3 prong connection behind the temp gauge. Is this to be used? I cannot find the female end to it. After reading many posts in this thread I am thinking I may need to make a bridge from the fuel gauge. Pictures attached of my sending unit, and gauge cluster. Thanks in advance.

 

[bj40green]

That 3 prong connector is for the Ammeter (top and bottom) and the vertical one is for the High Beam indicator.
Somebody cut the (blue) copper tracks to the ammeter.

For the TEMP gauge: follow the voltage. The voltage comes from the top stud of the FUEL gauge. It's around 7 Volts. Best to test with a testlamp (screwdriver like tester with a ground wire).

The lamp in the tester should flikker. That voltage goes through the TEMP gauge and goes to the top of the TEMP sender. The temp sender completes the circuit because the body is ground.

Rudi

 

[jjh123]

Here are my plugs

 

[jjh123]

Rudi,

Thanks for the response. I have done your test and I am getting a flickering light from the fuel gauge. That being said, how do I get power to the temp gauge?

 

[bj40green]

See picture below: 12V to the FUEL Gauge. Inside the FUEL gauge is a Voltage Regulator that provides a wobbly 6 to 7 Volts for itself and for the TEMP gauge (red down arrow). So the voltage comes from the top stud of the FUEL gauge, goes to the right stud of the TEMP gauge, it leaves the TEMP gauge from the left stud, goes to the barrel connector and from the barrel connector to the TEMP Sender.

 

[jjh123]

Update: I connected the gauge to power as noted above and my temp gauged pinned itself to H. Is this an indicator of a bad temp sensor?

 

[bj40green]

If you hooked it up exactly as shown above and the needle goes in the corner it means that you have a short to ground. Either a wire that touches bare metal or a sender with a short.

Rudi

 

[fjwagon]

Awesome write up Rudi. I have removed the light covers mentioned above but I have found that if use a brighter LED, p/n ZJ12300 with the light cover on left on works just as good. I have also used the orange neon tester paint you use on model car work.

 

[jjh123]

If you hooked it up exactly as shown above and the needle goes in the corner it means that you have a short to ground. Either a wire that touches bare metal or a sender with a short.

Rudi

I tried to create a bridge between the two points and I am now getting a temp gauge reading, but my fuel gauge now pegs to the right. Please advise, and I do apologize for asking what may be simple questions.

 

[bj40green]

I don't know why you made that jumper.
The track from the top stud FUEL gauge to the right stud from the TEMP gauge looks good to me.
Did or didn't you get that same voltage on the right stud from the TEMP gauge?
The picture in my previous posting (#610) represents the circuit and how it works and is connected.
Update: I connected the gauge to power as noted above and my temp gauged pinned itself to H. Is this an indicator of a bad temp sensor?
What exactly did you do? There is no need to make jumpers or bring voltage to a point for testing.
If your gauge is too long pegged in the corner, you run the risk of burning it up.
Those gauges are NLA !!!

 

[jjh123]

I don't know why you made that jumper.
The track from the top stud FUEL gauge to the right stud from the TEMP gauge looks good to me.
Did or didn't you get that same voltage on the right stud from the TEMP gauge?
The picture in my previous posting (#610) represents the circuit and how it works and is connected.
Update: I connected the gauge to power as noted above and my temp gauged pinned itself to H. Is this an indicator of a bad temp sensor?
What exactly did you do? There is no need to make jumpers or bring voltage to a point for testing.
If your gauge is too long pegged in the corner, you run the risk of burning it up.
Those gauges are NLA !!!

I understand the picture you have posted. Following the test to connect a lightbulb from the top center stud of the fuel gauge to the right stud of the temp gauge I am getting nothing. With a multimeter it is showing 0 volts. That being said I am to assume that the connection between the two points is missing something as the fuel gauge is working without any issues?

In the first try I think I mistakenly connected the temp gauge to the left stud of the fuel sensor which resulted in power being to supplied to the temp gauge, and sending it to "H".

 

[TEQ]

Forgive me if this is covered in this thread already but I read all 31 pages and didn't find the answer.

I have a '78 FJ40. My speedo and odometer work fine, but the rest of the cluster has much patina.

I have a line on a NOS '79 Kph cluster with the 50/50 amp gauge.

I'd like to know if the '79 cluster will work in my '78. I know I can swap the speedo and odometer from the old one in, and refurb the screen, but I'm not clear on whether the wiring will work. Thanks.

 

[tstepp920]

The Kph is probably 24v
All the gauges except the speedo are still available.
I just purchased new OEM from toyotapartsdeal.com

 

[TEQ]

No, it's 12V.

 

[handala]

Folks..
thanks for the great information.
just getting to fixing the stuck ODO on my '74 40 this weekend.
Sure enough...things stopped going as planned along the way. when I released the ODO shaft, removed the c-clip, and took off the gears next to the white wheel, I found a copper ring that will not budge off the shaft. There is one on the other side of the wheels (see pic). I can not figure out how to release the wheels to clean them!
I've searched around the forum for the solution with no luck.

any thoughts?