Clicking in the front end

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CWR33

CWR33

10 Year
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
451
Location
Dallas Texas
So as of lately I have noticed my front wheels click when I turn, especially sharp turns. The click is in a constant pattern that last thought the turn. I tried cleaning it with a power washer, so I know it's not because it's dirty. Keep in mind I'm running 35's and I have spacers on the front. My worst fear is that it's the spacer stripping the lugs.
 
CVs? They click while turning when they get worn out. You can lock the center diff, and drive in some figure 8's on pavement, if it's the CVs, you should really hear them then.
 
It would really be noticeable. I have read on here about people bending brake dust covers while removing tires, etc. Then the bent part would rub or maybe click? Lift the front tires off ground and spin tires, see if you hear something.
 
Yeah that might be it but I doubt it. I think it might be the shims. I read on another thread that pfan started and he had the click too, that was his issue.. I wouldn't be supprised if it was the CV's though. I didn't really co in a figure 8 because I couldn't turn it that hard and I didn't want to put to much stress on it. I'll try and go to a bigger space where I can do a full figure 8. But I just did some circles and didnt hear anything but I was also going slow. So I do t really know.
 
Did you check for play in wheel bearings or ball joints
 
I bet it is the the brake pad shims and/or retainer springs. Does the click sound rotational or RPM based? Go into a parking garage and go up a couple of levels very slowly with the radio off and the windows down, If it is a light-ish tick when turning, I would lay odds that it is in the brakes.
 
pfran42 said:
I bet it is the the brake pad shims and/or retainer springs. Does the click sound rotational or RPM based? Go into a parking garage and go up a couple of levels very slowly with the radio off and the windows down, If it is a light-ish tick when turning, I would lay odds that it is in the brakes.
Click to expand...

I think it is the shims. Based on what you said and my expirence theres one common factor. It only happens when I turn.
 
If a clicking noise is only heard when turning in one direction can it be the CV's? In other words, if the wheel is turned to lock either forward or back, shouldn't the CV joint make the same noise since the axle and joint are rotating? The sound is related to rotation, but it does not occur when cold and not when brakes are applied, and only when turning tightly in one direction.

If a clicking noise is a CV joint - is it too late? Will I have to replace the assembly since the wear has already occurred, or, if I apply more grease to the joint will it solve the clicking and any further wear? There is a slight oozing from the DS inside boot on the small side, but nothing substantial and boots are in good shape.

Finally, if it is worn and clicking, and it will need to be replaced, how long can I continue to use it before danger of breakage etc? I mean, if I am going to replace it anyway how long can I continue to use it? (We have a club run this weekend and I really want to go...but not if I am going to cause damage that I cannot recover from unless I spend the time to reboot/regrease).

A
 
When you turn hard left, the left CV is at a higher angularity than the right side. And so, yes, clicking in one direction is the usually the case. It will click more under throttle.

Is it too late? Usually it means that CV is toast and will need to be replaced.

How long do you have? People often drive weeks and months on a clicking CV. What are the chances of it locking up? I dunno but I'd probably change it in the very near future.
 
Thanks hoser! I'm trying to wrap my head around why its a larger angle turning one way and not the other? The axle is in the center of the wheel and both wheels have to stay parallel. What am I missing?

In my case it only clicks on the driver's side when I am turning a tight right. I am wondering how I can eliminate wheel bearings which I just had regressed. I looked at the brakes and shims and there is some wiggle room but I am not convinced they could make the clicking in time with wheel rotation.

A
 
The wheels are parallel when going straight but when turning, the inside wheel follows a smaller turning radius than the outside wheel.

I'm not 100% positive a broken CV is the problem but that's what it sounds like by the way you describe. I'm a bit thrown off by the noise only occurring on the drivers side on a hard right turn though (assuming LHD).

488px-Ackermann_turning.svg.webp
 
That is some great info hoser and nice graphic! I just went digging and found the "Ackermann steering geometry" explanation on Wickipedia. Thanks for leading me there. So this what I have been doing wrong on my Lego Technic cars!

So now I am even more suspicious about my clicking....it really shouldn't be my CVs since its on the driver side, when I am turning a tight right, (LHD in AZ!) which is a smaller angle than if I were turning a tight left. I am guessing wheel bearings....

Try this theory? If I am turning right, the outside wheel is clicking and the car is pulling itself to the inside, so there is extra force pulling the wheel away from the car and the bearings have more play/space and therefore click? Yes, maybe?

See pic below with bearings...it seems like the inside bearings would have more play.

Another clue, is that I removed the DS front wheel this morning to inspect the brakes. I had completely removed all 5 lug nuts, but the wheel would not budge. It was on there really good I had to pound on it and wiggle it left and right before it would dislodge. If the hub was not torqued right, there maybe some shifting going on that might bind the wheel to the hub? This seems unlikely. The rim bolt holes were probably just bound to the hub because of corrosion or dirt etc.

Either way, bearings or CV it doesn't sound like I should be driving the truck until I get this figured out.

hoser thanks for the super good info!

front hub assembly.webp

front hub assembly.webp
 
If no play or sound from CV & brakes look good. Then I'd pull off the grease cap too check the snap ring gap. Make sure you pull the axle out tight. Note: IMHO FSM spec for wheel bearing adjuster nut torque is too light, needs to be around 12 ft-lb for stock set-up even higher torque for modified front end with oversize tires.
 
2001LC said:
IMHO FSM spec for wheel bearing adjuster nut torque is too light
Click to expand...

And why do you think that? Pretty sure Toyota's engineers are spot on ensuring you don't burn up your bearings overtightening the spindle.
 
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