Clarification on drain plugs... (1 Viewer)

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Greetings. 1995 Locked FZJ80. I'm about to replace my transfer case and front/rear diff fill/drain plugs with 24 mm Toyota OEM hex plugs based on advice I've read on this forum.

I plan to use the longer, magnetized plugs in the diff fill/drain and the shorter non-magnetized plugs in the transfer case fill/drain. Photo of the plugs below (sorry - no part numbers - got the parts bags mixed up):

image.jpeg


Seeking clarification & assurance that these plugs will not interfere with any gearing in these components. I was especially concerned about the transfer case, as the original plugs are so short.

Thanks much.
 
The ones I put in are working fine. Can't confirm these are the same though without part numbers though
 
Do our factory drain plugs have magnets on the at all? Is this upgrade about adding the magnet or having a less snag prone bolt head design?
 
I don't know. I realize the advantage of the flush head from rocks but imho I'd rather have the regular bolt head design, even a little left to grab is something left to grab. You've not experienced seIzed bolt frustration nirvana until you've dealt with the madness a stripped out flush Allen head bolt will cause. Before my 40/80 I had a 300d, ask me how I know.
 
I don't know. I realize the advantage of the flush head from rocks but imho I'd rather have the regular bolt head design, even a little left to grab is something left to grab. You've not experienced seIzed bolt frustration nirvana until you've dealt with the madness a stripped out flush Allen head bolt will cause. Before my 40/80 I had a 300d, ask me how I know.

That is kind of what i was thinking. I can see it might be good for the diff drain plug. That one has the raised rib around it. I could see that if the rib got smashed in you could not fit a socket over the bolt head. But could still get a allen key in. But the others i would rather have a bolt head that i can at least grab with vice grips or clean up with a file. My transfer case is all protected by a skid plat so it does not really matter.
 
Get the 90341-18021's for all 6 positions and be done with it.

If you have an A440 or a A442 get them for all 8 locations.
 
I don't know. I realize the advantage of the flush head from rocks but imho I'd rather have the regular bolt head design, even a little left to grab is something left to grab. You've not experienced seIzed bolt frustration nirvana until you've dealt with the madness a stripped out flush Allen head bolt will cause. Before my 40/80 I had a 300d, ask me how I know.

Agree, and when they get jammed full of rock it sucks to get enough out to get the Allen in there. After fighting them, see zero advantage, I go back to stock.
 
Thanks guys. Great advice all around. Guess it comes down to how the truck will be used and personal preference/experience.

My original intent was to ensure that going with the longer hex magnetized plugs would not interfere with any internal gearing. I personally compared them to the stock plugs and they are near identical.

Didn't mean to beat a dead horse, as I know there are related threads, but I did not see anything definitive on internal clearance / external snag.

I definitely agree about the hex plugs attracting small pebbles and rocks and will keep that in mind. For my general overlanding use, however, I don't see it as a major issue. Aggressive rock crawling, however, is another story - obviously.

Also, in my case, my stock plugs had been pretty damaged by any number of questionable mechanics in South America and Africa. I'm glad to have plugs I now know are easy to remove and install.

My best to all of you.
 
18mm with 1.5 thread pitch
 
I don't know. I realize the advantage of the flush head from rocks but imho I'd rather have the regular bolt head design, even a little left to grab is something left to grab. You've not experienced seIzed bolt frustration nirvana until you've dealt with the madness a stripped out flush Allen head bolt will cause. Before my 40/80 I had a 300d, ask me how I know.

Just the opposite experience here - maybe the way we sorta flail & sail our way through things in the PNW, the flush head is easily knocked loose of any rock in the allen recess with an awl & light hammer, and since the plugs are newer they have good Never Sieze & have been moved recently.
Maybe mud running packs the socket & seeps into the threads - wet rocks, inclines & puddles are my trail composition generally (I avoid mud runs & do the Cascade Foothills where it's as described, hate the mud flats - more work when home)

Not out to argue, just posting a reason & situation the flush allens are a better in my region & type of play. Take as you will. I did add a bit of plate metal around the pipe guard on my FR axle shell, just to avoid smearing that steel into the plug area. Haven't had problems with this axle shell, but did bend the last (OE Beno says was weaker).
 

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