Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Are you saying that you bought a set of rear disc brake calipers & discs from Racer? If so, what make/model does he sell?
City Racer Rims and disc brakes
- Thread starter brooklyn
- Start date
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Those look great. Are they 16’s?
Do you have a part number for that wheel?
I need to get out of the 40 section and walk around a little. Beautiful job on your 61.
Wait a minute. A Sixty One? We never get any of the cool stuff.
Wheels Vintique15-inch, 7-inch-wide (are these those rims?)
16-inch Racers, 5.5-inch-wide
Stock 60 chrome wheels, 6-inch-wide
I tend to think that wheel width is important for tire geometry (contact patch). And the taller the tire, the wider or more outboard it needs to be (kingpin angle/ scrub radius). That said, tall-skinny, like @dogfishlake is the aesthetic. However, running a wide wheel with a skinny tire, it is usually closer to engineered specs for the tread contact patch (wheel width relative to tire width), and where the stock scrub radius on these 40 axles (castor shims are also important).
Currently, I'm using grey primer for my stock wheels. They are non-riveted, which clear stock disc brakes, if that kinda answers your original question. New and original chrome caps for shine. Rattle can for ease of repair, and they do get scratched the way that I mount/handle them. At 28-inch tires, I'm at the technical end of running 5.5-inch wheels, 215/75/R15; even a 235/75/R15 is speced for wider than stock wheel. Yes, there are ample reports of folks running large radials on vintage bias-ply wheels, but, I question the practice for aesthetic and performance reasons. Rim geometry is related to performance.
16-inch Racers, 5.5-inch-wide
Stock 60 chrome wheels, 6-inch-wide
I tend to think that wheel width is important for tire geometry (contact patch). And the taller the tire, the wider or more outboard it needs to be (kingpin angle/ scrub radius). That said, tall-skinny, like @dogfishlake is the aesthetic. However, running a wide wheel with a skinny tire, it is usually closer to engineered specs for the tread contact patch (wheel width relative to tire width), and where the stock scrub radius on these 40 axles (castor shims are also important).
Currently, I'm using grey primer for my stock wheels. They are non-riveted, which clear stock disc brakes, if that kinda answers your original question. New and original chrome caps for shine. Rattle can for ease of repair, and they do get scratched the way that I mount/handle them. At 28-inch tires, I'm at the technical end of running 5.5-inch wheels, 215/75/R15; even a 235/75/R15 is speced for wider than stock wheel. Yes, there are ample reports of folks running large radials on vintage bias-ply wheels, but, I question the practice for aesthetic and performance reasons. Rim geometry is related to performance.
My combo on my 61 with 7" wide wheels and 255/85's has wheeled (at 18 psi) over way more than I intended. No turning back serious crawling. It also has done sustained expressway speeds and everything in between. The wheel width is definitely not an issue.
The Wheel Vin 4" backspace will get you close to touching the relay rod at full lock on left turns. It is no biggie to be because you are going .2 mph at full lock and it gives plenty of harmless warning
The Wheel Vin 4" backspace will get you close to touching the relay rod at full lock on left turns. It is no biggie to be because you are going .2 mph at full lock and it gives plenty of harmless warning
Yes. 16x7
Ouch. If you have more shops around you, you should shop around. Steel wheels in single stage colors are pretty easy to do
*compared to aluminum KFC buckets in 22" with weird metallic/clear etc.
That’s why I decided to forgo the coating process. I refinished the worst wheel myself for the spare and it turned out pretty nice and saved a bunch of coin. The other rims I like their patina and just left them as they are.
Good plan. Powder coating is cool and all, but if you don't drive your cruiser in crap weather and salt (like no one does), then a good, do it yourself paint jobs is great. Saves a pile of money and hassle.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Those are some crazy prices you guys are throwing out for powder coating wheels! My local guy charges my $50 a wheel to sand or media blast steel or aluminum wheels and powder coat. His work is excellent. I have bumpers and wheels that he did for me well over a decade ago and they are still shrugging off Alaska winter and spring road conditions and occasional minor impacts even... and looking great.
Mark...
Mark...
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That’s a smokin deal, Mark. They’re $100 and up per rim in my area.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
It's probably even better than it might seem at first. This place does excellent heavy duty power coating. Anytime I have purchased a finished bumper or cage, I always have it shipped up bare and have my guy here coat it. ARB bumpers... go straight to him to get stripped and redone right off the bat if I can convince the customer to trust me on the call.
When they coat something IT LASTS!I have an ARB of my own that I am getting ready to do some mods to (mainly holes for lights and some reinforcements) that is really showing it's age in terms of scratches, nicks and a s*** load of surface rust. Gonna get that and a couple more sets of '80 series rims done this winter.
Mark...
