City racer Fuji carb

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Fj80oregon

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Thinking about buying this carb instead of dealing with my carb that has been sitting in a box 10+ years. That’s how I bought the truck. I have read it’s a good carb. Just wanted to see if I need anything else with it or will it just bolt right up and adjust? Engine has not run in 10+ years and will get a new fuel tank also.

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Good carb. Bolts right on assuming you bought the right version for your application. It'll run right out of the box, but you'll want to tweak your idle and mixture, adjust timing, etc.
 
Make sure you do new fuel lines and filter. Don't want to get rust and junk in your new carb. Alot of folks, myself included just replace the rubber fuel lines, but the old steel ones are usually the culprit for rust particles in the carb.

I ran the fuji for a year or so until it lost a seal and started dumping fuel onto the manifold.
 
Make sure you do new fuel lines and filter. Don't want to get rust and junk in your new carb. Alot of folks, myself included just replace the rubber fuel lines, but the old steel ones are usually the culprit for rust particles in the carb.

I ran the fuji for a year or so until it lost a seal and started dumping fuel onto the manifold.
Ditto on cleaning out the lines first. I’ve got the same carb but I didn’t know my tank was rusty before I installed it. Easy to install and it runs fine out of the box. Price is right!
 
If you are using the City Racer carb do you know what jet sizes it comes with?
 
@devo I'm in your neighborhood, and I'm of the opinion that high altitude doesn't really change anything. Engine vacuum is lower or higher, based on altitude, but you do have to give it more throttle, either with the idle speed screw (there is a limit to how much) or with the gas pedal. It isn't like the carb meters out fuel-mix different up here, it just takes a greater volume of less dense air to consume the same amount of fuel from the bowl. Nothing changed for me going up to the ski hill.

@Fj80oregon I'd try out your existing carburetor. In my opinion, carb dip, a proper accelerator pump boot. and a rebuild kit is the way to go, depending on what you are starting with. Especially if you are keeping it kinda vintage, the original carburetor has more value, and it (mine is a 75) has a cast-iron base, so the primary throttle shaft will never wear out there. However, I might have picked up some mpg with the OEM/ new-Aisan version of the made-in-Japan model that you mention; it has smaller jetting, and a choice of smaller jets, and a smaller venturi (iirc), but, the mpg gain is probably because the motor was slowly getting congestion cleared-off of the top of the valves. I have a china carb that is real similar to the Aisan, and made-in-Japan ones, but, I'm afraid to try it out, as they used sealant between the air horn and bowl, so without (easily) being able to remove the fuel, I'd have gas turning into varnish if I shelved it after an afternoon of use; out-of-the box, it also needed tightening on one of the screws that holds the bowl to the carb base.

otherwise, if you are collecting parts...
- a Dorman "cable stop" 1/16-inch hole at local auto store for the stock choke cable-end
- a spacer for the stock air cleaner assembly (it sits lower than ERG-equipped carbs)
- a longer stud for air cleaner assembly plus the spacer (M6x1, iirc) - I cut one from a really long screw from the hardware store, and secured it with a new lock-washer and nut
- I employed flat washers and fresh lock-washers for the (M8, iirc) intake studs, not sure what the original hardware was. An extending magnetic pick-up helps when you drop hardware in the tight spots, and a stubby or crow's foot M12 or M13(generic hardware) wrench to get in between the carb and the valve cover
- A section of fuel line with a smooth (unthreaded) section of a screw secured with a hose-clamp becomes the plug on the tank-return line, so the grinder with a cut-off wheel is what I used (someone should try hacking-in the return line on one of these, drill and tap, the boss is there on the casting)
- You might need some caps for the emission lines? I have exhaust headers, so I didn't need to cap the EGR system.

A tachometer-type multimeter is how I got my 2F idle-speed at about 600 rpm, then adjust the idle mix until it runs smooth or slightly rich.
 
Assuming this is for your '78?

I agree with @Grayscale

What sort of shape is the original in? Rebuilds aren't too bad for these, assuming it's not super crusty. Was the rig already desmogged, or will you be going through with that?
Yes 78, need to dig it out of the box it’s in and do an inventory of it. Not sure on desmogging. Need to check into it I guess before asking questions and getting ahead of my self.
 
I got a city racer carb and it was defective right out of the box and was dumping fuel.
That said I contacted them and they took it right back with no questions asked so they still get a huge thumbs up for owning the issue.
 
I couldn’t get a complete OEM kit. There are other kits out there. Cruiser Outfitters sells one. But I found this one to be most complete, no replacement jets, but it worked perfectly on this 1983 carb. I believe it’s the same manufacturer of the kit featured in the famous PinHead videos?

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I couldn’t get a complete OEM kit. There are other kits out there. Cruiser Outfitters sells one. But I found this one to be most complete, no replacement jets, but it worked perfectly on this 1983 carb.

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Seems reasonable priced.
 
Ditto on cleaning out the lines first. I’ve got the same carb but I didn’t know my tank was rusty before I installed it. Easy to install and it runs fine out of the box. Price is right!
Great advice. One of the challenges of selling carburetors is that some buyers don't see it as part of a system. They just drop it in; if the car doesn't run right, they point to the carb as defective. The root cause can in fact be any number of things, such as a dirty tank, vacuum leaks or even an issue with the ignition system.
One thing you can safely rule out is the factory having left some debris or metal shavings in the passageways. The inside of a new Fuji carb is always squeaky clean:

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