Chilcotin- 1984 FJ60 on the road back to its glory days (1 Viewer)

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Another pic

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Before you through the hub and rotor on look at Marlin Crawler for the dust shield eliminator plates. Might be worth it (i am planning on doing it).
 
Before you through the hub and rotor on look at Marlin Crawler for the dust shield eliminator plates. Might be worth it (i am planning on doing it).

Yes it might me things easier when servicing hubs, provided that the brake union piece that is attached to the back of the dust shield is then eliminated, making things much easier to deal with. I do now actually have to bleed the brakes since I took the caliper off. It was attached to the shield via hard brake line. Kind of stupid.
I also see a lot of people use their kits instead of the felt gaskets that come with the typ. Aussie or Toyota kits.

This is in essence what I had gotten to replace on Chilcotin at the moment. I also have a locking hub refresh kit from SOR.

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You can still keep the dust shield but skip the hard line by going right from the axle union to the caliper with a slightly longer caliper brake line. It makes things so much simpler and easier.

If you've gone this far, and the brake lines look old or are cracked, you might as well change the brake lines.
 
You can still keep the dust shield but skip the hard line by going right from the axle union to the caliper with a slightly longer caliper brake line. It makes things so much simpler and easier.

If you've gone this far, and the brake lines look old or are cracked, you might as well change the brake lines.

That's actually a great idea. The truck does have new lines and calipers though. I also don't really want to have it out of commission too long. Perhaps I'll do it... Thanks for the advice
 
Alright, a small update. I finally got around to doing the other side of the axle (driver's side) and I ran into major trouble. I cannot for the love of God take those cone washers out. What gives? I banged on the bolts till they mushroomed. I cannot even spot the slits to try and pry a bar in the slit to force them to open as per manual. Any insights? Please help.
 
Alright, a small update. I finally got around to doing the other side of the axle (driver's side) and I ran into major trouble. I cannot for the love of God take those cone washers out. What gives? I banged on the bolts till they mushroomed. I cannot even spot the slits to try and pry a bar in the slit to force them to open as per manual. Any insights? Please help.

Can you get a screwdriver in the slot an spin them at all?
Penetrating oil, a ball peen or 22oz hammer and a brass drift.
Hit em with the penetrant, let it soak in, then rap around the hub with the hammer with quick blows. It not the force but the frequency that gets them to pop. Also, put the nuts on the studs and hit em quickly with the hammer; same idea as above applies.
 
Can you get a screwdriver in the slot an spin them at all?
Penetrating oil, a ball peen or 22oz hammer and a brass drift.
Hit em with the penetrant, let it soak in, then rap around the hub with the hammer with quick blows. It not the force but the frequency that gets them to pop. Also, put the nuts on the studs and hit em quickly with the hammer; same idea as above applies.

Well, I have attempted all of the above. so far nothing. I've left them sit overnight. They are so tight that I cannot see the slits. The other one wasn't as problematic. Once they are out, it's a pretty easy job to do. I am also rebuilding my locking hubs. Those weren't too bad. So I guess another day or two of soaking might just do the trick. Luckily, I bought replacement studs just in case. Thanks for the advice.
 
Finally after more than 3 weeks I have managed to service and rebuild the front axle including all the steering components (rod ends and drag links) the truck drives beautifully now, and the steering is nice and tight. there is no slop whatsoever. Moving the wheel changes direction, simple as that. I have taken it out on a small 100 mile trip this morning just before work to my fave trout spot and it is a blast to drive. In the process I have also managed to solve the mysterious coolant disappearance issue. It turns out that one of the return hoses is too old and has a small crack or hole in it allowing coolant to leak out. I never saw it under the truck because it would leak on the front diff housing and never directly on the ground. I am happy that it's just that and nothing else. Some pics from this morning.

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A couple more pictures. I managed to spot two ruffed grouses as well. And the season is open as well. Too bad I didn't have my shot gun.

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I am not sure if it can be spotted but the grouse was crossing the road. In the last two photos the other can be spotted taking flight.
 
Thanks! The thread is marginal at best. I like to post updates and ask for advice as needed. The pictures are also pretty crappy but updates are updates. Some threads on here are top notch when it comes to rebuilding these beautiful trucks.
 
By the way, Can anyone help me identify the part number for the busted hose that leaks coolant. It's the skinny hose that is branched into the metal "t" at the lower radiator hose. Crap I'd have to take a picture. I cannot seem to find it anywhere.
 
I think I found what i need. It's hose number three. I guess since it's a straight piece, any hose might do.

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No bad threads on here - I learn something from every one of them. And the enthusiasm is contagious. Rock on.
 

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