Builds Chicago builds a 40

[chicago]

Here you can see that the PS of the frame rail is REALLY TIGHT, and there is really no room for much of anything. The input flange is right in the way. I have to go under that to make any kind of connection.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

That is some pretty and clean work.

Regarding the crossmember, it's time to start bending some tubes. I had the same issue as the 60 went back together, but 1 3/4 DOM tube makes everything possible.

That frame rail is tighter than I would have thought. Is the motor in there square? Could you cheat it to the left a couple of inches?

Remember that the 40 frame is extremely flexy, so don't be in a hurry to make the mount too rigid.

Driveshaft!

 

[locrwln1]

That is tight. Keep in mind, you can build the crossmember anyway you want. There really isn't any rule. Just remember, it has to support and protect the tranny/t-case.

Also, I measured that front '84 mini front driveshaft and it measures 24.5" at rest (its natural position). It's yours when you want it.

Jack

 

[chicago]

That is some pretty and clean work.

Regarding the crossmember, it's time to start bending some tubes. I had the same issue as the 60 went back together, but 1 3/4 DOM tube makes everything possible.

That frame rail is tighter than I would have thought. Is the motor in there square? Could you cheat it to the left a couple of inches?

Remember that the 40 frame is extremely flexy, so don't be in a hurry to make the mount too rigid.

Driveshaft!

Andy,
Its in there almost square...The dimension was 1/8 in off when we set the mounts, so not enough to make a difference, and we had to offset the drive train to the PS in order to clear the steering.
I was trying to think of a way to be able to bend something up...I guess that if I was not at all concerned with frame rail clearance that it might be a bit easier to come up with. However, with that hang up clouding my decision making process, the BEST that I could do if I were to have something bent up would be a 1" tube.
The other thing that Im considering is support for the rear cases.
You can see in the pics that the mount is BEFORE the dual case set up. With the 2 cases combined, there is a LOT of weight hangning off that ONE mount. I NEED to find a way to support the cases as well. I can really see NO place to run a x member off the 19 spline. Possible at the rear bearing retainer, but Im not too crazy about that idea as the that is what set the bearing play.

 

[chicago]

That is tight. Keep in mind, you can build the crossmember anyway you want. There really isn't any rule. Just remember, it has to support and protect the tranny/t-case.

Also, I measured that front '84 mini front driveshaft and it measures 24.5" at rest (its natural position). It's yours when you want it.

Jack

Right on Jack!
Thanks for thinking of me for that. I think Ill need to have it lengthened, but that's not too big of a deal. Ill take it do Dean in Carson!

I sat down with a pencil and paper....
Im thinking 2 in angle iron off of the frame rails with gusseting off the sides. Have the x member be 1/2 in plate running the entire distance. then run some 1x2 in 1/4 in wall on the bottom of the 1/2 in plate. This should be rigid enough, yet low profile to keep out of the way of the rocks.

So, as it is right now...the ONLY 2 supports for the drive train are the motor mounts and the x member. NOTHING else. Should I seek additional means of securing the set up?

You also mentioned in one of our conversations that I should stitch weld the frame on the inside frame box? Will that help with frame flex?

 

[chicago]

Driveshaft!

Oh yeah!

14 in from the center of the flange bolt to the center of the pinion bolt.

My calcs with the flipped 60 springs, ruff stuff perches set back and the hangers moved back I should be able to make a 20 in shaft, not accounting for SOA elevation....

 

[boots4]

Thus my reason for making clearance in my crossmember for my front shaft. Since the tcase hangs lower than the crossmember anyways, clearance for the front driveshaft doesn't loose any more belly clearance. The crossmember will be a good point to use for the front of my skidplate.

 

[chicago]

Thus my reason for making clearance in my crossmember for my front shaft. Since the tcase hangs lower than the crossmember anyways, clearance for the front driveshaft doesn't loose any more belly clearance. The crossmember will be a good point to use for the front of my skidplate.

Now that's a pretty good design there. I thought you had scrapped that for some reason?
I was trying to avoid anything off the frame rail, but I see what you mean...the t case hangs low anyway...
I like the way that you mounted that as well. I may go this route using 1/2 in plate. I dont like the idea of the whole thing being supported by ONE bolt on each side as I was planning.
The bitch about using the 1/2 in plate is the drilling!!!!!!! Christ on a bike is that stuff a PITA to bore through!

Thanks for the pic and the info!

 

[boots4]

That's my 2nd. The first crossmember is the one that was failing and I didn't like the way I routed it so I made this one. This one is much easier to take out.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Mike-I should post in your thread, but what do you have for a skid plate under the t-case? Did I miss that?

I'll try and post up some pics of my skid and support, but bent tube seemed like the only way to do everything cleanly.

 

[calfj60]

I ran one cross member in my 60 with the same set up and it worked fine...I don't have any pics here at work but it was just a simple piece of tube bent under the 203 mount with two flat plates that bolted to the bottom of the frame rails..

 

[bustanutley]

Personally, I would modify the adapter. shave the bosses and gussets off that thing and make and connection that bolts thru the girth of it. Bolt and biggish angle to it and, finish. I would bet it is cast steel so you could also weld to it. Anything you build using those bosses is going to hang down way too low.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Personally, I would modify the adapter. shave the bosses and gussets off that thing and make and connection that bolts thru the girth of it. Bolt and biggish angle to it and, finish. I would bet it is cast steel so you could also weld to it. Anything you build using those bosses is going to hang down way too low.

I think the t-case will hang lower, so it should be a non-issue.

 

[boots4]

Mike-I should post in your thread, but what do you have for a skid plate under the t-case? Did I miss that?

I'll try and post up some pics of my skid and support, but bent tube seemed like the only way to do everything cleanly.

You didn't miss it because I haven't reworked it yet so I have no skid right now. It'll be done before Moab.

I see how it is, you don't like being a square. ;p If you've got access to a bender than go for (I agree that looks better) but I didn't so I had to be a square.

 

[chicago]

Personally, I would modify the adapter. shave the bosses and gussets off that thing and make and connection that bolts thru the girth of it. Bolt and biggish angle to it and, finish. I would bet it is cast steel so you could also weld to it. Anything you build using those bosses is going to hang down way too low.

Yeah...actually the "feet" on the 700R adapter are even with the bottom of the frame rail. Besides that, the flange is a smidge lower than the adapter, so Id be screwing myself even more shaving the adapter.
Rusty is right as well in that the 19 spline case hangs down about 2 in below the frame rail.
Trust me...for TWO FAWKING DAYS I sat under that rig as she sits trying to visualize EVERY POSSIBLE way to effectively mount that x member...over the top, making an x shape of sorts, looking at the various bolt/ plate type methods...It just so happens that where it ended up...is just a BAAAAD place for it to be. Its all on the PS frame rail. There is just no place to tuck it up inside the frame and safely affix.
I looked at ways that I could have some tube bent, but again, it would only be 1 in tube and some weird kind of bolt through the frame kind of mount thing...


SOOOOOOO.....I hear what youre saying....

 

[chicago]

1/2 in plate is the route that Im taking...Ill run a 1x2 in x 1/4 in wall gusset along the bottom for rigidity, which will also allow me to recess the bolts and keep them protected.
I was fabbing some brackets this eve to weld to the frame rails...
However, something just occurred to me as I was typing the response to bustanutly above that might work GREAT....


Just out of curiosity...anyone know what I.D. of tube will clear a 3/4 in bolt? I just had the thought of using the tube with a 3/4 in bolt as a trhough bolt and use that as my mounting point on the frame rails. Similar as to what most folks do with the shackle bushings?

 

[bustanutley]

3/4" bolt = 3/4" hole machinist handbook says min .729, max .768

 

[chicago]

Got it figured and well under way.
So I stopped by the local steel shop (AGAIN) and said that I needed a piece of tubing with and ID of at least 1/2 in. He showed me some 1 1/4, 3/8 wall DOM....FAWK is that SH*T EXPENSIVE!!!!!!!!
Well, the pics will describe it better than I can.
The frame angles out where this all sits, so the bracket is not square, but the DOM is. Im pretty excited about it. Glad that I at least got it figured out with something that I LIKE and TRUST. The other stuff that I had attempted just DIDNT sit right with me.

 

[chicago]

So, Ill then weld the DOM/ through bolt to the 1/2 in plate and voila...
Just hope my welds will hold up!

 

[liljlandon]

The welds look good, i doubt you'll have an issue with them...