Builds Chicago builds a 40 (3 Viewers)

[chicago]

How many PBR's did it take to "Catch" pink eye?

Congratulations on getting that major decision out of the way.

HAHAHA!
Ive been on call most every day for the past MONTH, so havent had the privilege of partaking in my BELOVED PBR too often!

 

[chicago]

Huge progress. I agree with your approach too, no need to re-invent the wheel.

Thanks Andy!
I was really growing more and more concerned with the prospect of essentially building my OWN harness. For the sake of simplicity, sanity and time I figured that it would be money well spent going with them. I want her to run WELL without a whole lot of hassle from the get go. This way I KNOW that the connections will be RIGHT, LABELED and NEW!

 

[chicago]

Painless Performance Scout And Land Cruiser Chassis Harness - SummitRacing.com

Anyone use this?
A bit pricey, but if it would simplify the wiring process it might be worth it.
We cover a couple different chassis wiring companies on Pg 2 of this thread, but Im a little worried about the adapting the plugs.
Also, If I were to get one of these aftermarket harnesses and the DID NOT have a provision for a elec. fuel pump, could I ADD one?

Looking for opinions!

Thanks,

Keith

 

[PhilC64]

The 12 circuit is ample enough for the 40. You should have a circuit or two available to run an electric fuel pump. (I use the hood lamp circuit to run mine.) Since you are going to run a Vortec, you may want to get the fuel injection harness as well. Painless Performance: - Fuel Injection Harnesses For 4x4 OffRoad

There are other wiring harnesses out there so shop around a little before you buy. I went with Painless because it was already partially installed in my 40. I pulled out the original harness and saved as many plug ends as possible. If you cut the old harness for the plugs, leave yourself about 4-6 inches of wire with each one. It make marrying in the new harness to the old switches quite easy. You'll also need a good schematic for the keyed ignition circuit.

Almost forgot.....take your time wiring it! I spent a lot of time running my harness and have not had one electrical issue since I installed it. I did a little overkill on my connections. All my connections are crimped, soldered then wrapped in heat shrink.

 

[chicago]

The 12 circuit is ample enough for the 40. You should have a circuit or two available to run an electric fuel pump. (I use the hood lamp circuit to run mine.) Since you are going to run a Vortec, you may want to get the fuel injection harness as well. Painless Performance: - Fuel Injection Harnesses For 4x4 OffRoad

There are other wiring harnesses out there so shop around a little before you buy. I went with Painless because it was already partially installed in my 40. I pulled out the original harness and saved as many plug ends as possible. If you cut the old harness for the plugs, leave yourself about 4-6 inches of wire with each one. It make marrying in the new harness to the old switches quite easy. You'll also need a good schematic for the keyed ignition circuit.

Almost forgot.....take your time wiring it! I spent a lot of time running my harness and have not had one electrical issue since I installed it. I did a little overkill on my connections. All my connections are crimped, soldered then wrapped in heat shrink.

So Phil, are you saying that I shold go with the cheaper 12 circuit harness in lieu of the more expensive one?

 

[chicago]

203 to 19 spline adapter is EN ROUTE!!!!!!!!

Jerry Nichols is a SOOOOPER nice guy on the phone!

 

[PhilC64]

I haven't really found any decent comparison article regard wiring kits. The eggheads on here will debate the minutae of copper wire types but for what you're using it for, it really makes no difference.
Other folks on here have used other brands without issue. Almost all of the kits will give you a labled harness and installation instructions. They're all pretty much " no-brainers" and supply pretty much the same materials. If you're going with a GM OEM type harness supplied with your Vortec, then you can use pretty much any one out there. On the other hand if you have to get a new harness for the chassis AND the engine spend the cash and get both painless kits.

Oh, remember to ground the snot out of your rig! I have the battery grounded to the body, which is grounded to the frame, which is grounded to the engine, which is grounded to the body.

 

[chicago]

I haven't really found any decent comparison article regard wiring kits. The eggheads on here will debate the minutae of copper wire types but for what you're using it for, it really makes no difference.
Other folks on here have used other brands without issue. Almost all of the kits will give you a labled harness and installation instructions. They're all pretty much " no-brainers" and supply pretty much the same materials. If you're going with a GM OEM type harness supplied with your Vortec, then you can use pretty much any one out there. On the other hand if you have to get a new harness for the chassis AND the engine spend the cash and get both painless kits.

Oh, remember to ground the snot out of your rig! I have the battery grounded to the body, which is grounded to the frame, which is grounded to the engine, which is grounded to the body.

Thanks for that info Phil!
I have a Howell harness for the engine coming. I have the old 40 harness that i stripped out and labeled as I was doing it, and (obviously) Im now looking at an after market chassis harness. This painless harness caught my eye cuz it was cruiser specific vs. the generic harnesses that ive been looking at and states that it has most of the plugs.
So with the generic harnesses, will I need to splice the old connections from the original harness on to the new one? Is that how these work. Honestly, I have NO idea. I can only guess at this point.

Thanks again,

Keith

 

[rusty_tlc]

....
Oh, remember to ground the snot out of your rig! I have the battery grounded to the body, which is grounded to the frame, which is grounded to the engine, which is grounded to the body.

Grounding is one of the most common problems with anything electrical.

One way to avoid problems with electronics is to avoid ground loops.
What this means is to have a common ground point. In most cases this will be the frame since it everything attached to it in some way or other. Using the body as a common ground can cause problems because sometimes the different body panels are not directly connected or have painted surfaces that do not make a good electrical connection.


I'm just sayin' .....

 

[PhilC64]

Thanks for that info Phil!
I have a Howell harness for the engine coming. I have the old 40 harness that i stripped out and labeled as I was doing it, and (obviously) Im now looking at an after market chassis harness. This painless harness caught my eye cuz it was cruiser specific vs. the generic harnesses that ive been looking at and states that it has most of the plugs.
So with the generic harnesses, will I need to splice the old connections from the original harness on to the new one? Is that how these work. Honestly, I have NO idea. I can only guess at this point.

Thanks again,

Keith

What you'll find is that Mr.T used only a few basic connector styles. My painless did not come with the Toyota specific connectors. They did however supply a small box of the standard crimp on connectors you find at almost any auto parts store. As a result, I pulled my beat up harness out of the 40 and started cutting off all the connectors but leaving a "pigtail" of 4 - 6 inches of wire on them. Most of the dash switches use similar styled plugs so it's not an issue. The ignition connectors are only one style and you're better off leaving as much wire on them as possible. You'll need to have the Toyota schematic on hand when you marry the new harness into that circuit. I do recall the painless harness instructions had that portion of the wiring instructions wrong. Thats why I'm pushing for a schematic. If you don't have one available, I'm pretty certain there is one available on Coolerman's website.
And yes, I'll keep my eyes open here to help you if needed. Looking at this thread, it seems you have a lot of help from some damn good friends and club buddies also.

Grounding is one of the most common problems with anything electrical.

One way to avoid problems with electronics is to avoid ground loops.
What this means is to have a common ground point. In most cases this will be the frame since it everything attached to it in some way or other. Using the body as a common ground can cause problems because sometimes the different body panels are not directly connected or have painted surfaces that do not make a good electrical connection.


I'm just sayin' .....

LOL I get it smart arse! I was trying to emphasize grounding the shart out of everyting. Even with the rattle can paint job I have on my 40, I was able to attach my grounds to body panels and not have a problem. Since this is a 40 there aren't a lot of "electronics" in it. Yeah I know he'll be adding in an ECU but that is pretty much it's own separate harness so the issue of ground loops shouldn't be an issue.

I thought about this and figured I had to mention it since you'll be getting intimate with the electrical. Toyota wired up everything to be negative/ground switched circuits. That is when you activate a switch on a stock 40, the switch closes the connection to complete the circuit on the ground leg of it. US made vehicles from the 1960's on, were positive switched where the power to the device being used was interrupted or completed to activate the device. The devices on US made cars are always grounded.
A switch is a switch. It makes no difference what circuit it interrupts or completes in this case. I went with positive switched because that's what I know. I personally am not a fan of negative switched since the power is constantly supplied to a device.

Are you adding aftermarket gauges to this rig?

 

[chicago]

What you'll find is that Mr.T used only a few basic connector styles. My painless did not come with the Toyota specific connectors. They did however supply a small box of the standard crimp on connectors you find at almost any auto parts store. As a result, I pulled my beat up harness out of the 40 and started cutting off all the connectors but leaving a "pigtail" of 4 - 6 inches of wire on them. Most of the dash switches use similar styled plugs so it's not an issue. The ignition connectors are only one style and you're better off leaving as much wire on them as possible. You'll need to have the Toyota schematic on hand when you marry the new harness into that circuit. I do recall the painless harness instructions had that portion of the wiring instructions wrong. Thats why I'm pushing for a schematic. If you don't have one available, I'm pretty certain there is one available on Coolerman's website.
And yes, I'll keep my eyes open here to help you if needed. Looking at this thread, it seems you have a lot of help from some damn good friends and club buddies also.



LOL I get it smart arse! I was trying to emphasize grounding the shart out of everyting. Even with the rattle can paint job I have on my 40, I was able to attach my grounds to body panels and not have a problem. Since this is a 40 there aren't a lot of "electronics" in it. Yeah I know he'll be adding in an ECU but that is pretty much it's own separate harness so the issue of ground loops shouldn't be an issue.

I thought about this and figured I had to mention it since you'll be getting intimate with the electrical. Toyota wired up everything to be negative/ground switched circuits. That is when you activate a switch on a stock 40, the switch closes the connection to complete the circuit on the ground leg of it. US made vehicles from the 1960's on, were positive switched where the power to the device being used was interrupted or completed to activate the device. The devices on US made cars are always grounded.
A switch is a switch. It makes no difference what circuit it interrupts or completes in this case. I went with positive switched because that's what I know. I personally am not a fan of negative switched since the power is constantly supplied to a device.

Are you adding aftermarket gauges to this rig?

Hey Phil...
What ever you just said in the last paragraph....WAAAAAAAY over my head! Im kinda like a hairless gorilla.
So there is the motor to frame ground strap...remind me of what the other grounds are and where they need to be?
I do plan on running new gauges. Havent decided on any, and quite frankly do not know too much about em so if you have any recommendations, feel free.
So what you said above about the US and toyota neg vs pos circuits...is that something that Ill have to be concerned with?
Im gonna have to get Rusty over here for this crap and learn me on this!
That is VERY TRUE, that I do have a great deal of support both locally and elsewhere! 4 wheelers in general always seem willing to help, especially cruiser folks!

 

[chicago]

Stripped the under coating today!
5 frickin hours! What a MESSY JOB!
AAAAAAND, I did it while HUNG OVER too!

Most I got with a wire wheel, and some I had to torch and scrape and then hit with a wire wheel!

Glad that is DONE!

Pics

Before
After
What I looked like after it was all done!

 

[Mikesta]

Grats man... where's the pictures???

 

[chicago]

Grats man... where's the pictures???

CRAP!!!!

Hold on! I donno why those didnt get through!

 

[FLYINGLOW]

I thought about this and figured I had to mention it since you'll be getting intimate with the electrical. Toyota wired up everything to be negative/ground switched circuits. That is when you activate a switch on a stock 40, the switch closes the connection to complete the circuit on the ground leg of it. US made vehicles from the 1960's on, were positive switched where the power to the device being used was interrupted or completed to activate the device. The devices on US made cars are always grounded.
A switch is a switch. It makes no difference what circuit it interrupts or completes in this case. I went with positive switched because that's what I know. I personally am not a fan of negative switched since the power is constantly supplied to a device.

I can see toyota's logic and can appreciate it because of the simple fact that you aren't passing a "hot" wire through the fire wall... I guess the power wire does at some point though. If the wire shorts out it will turn stuff on. It does mess with your head during troubleshooting.

And ya, ground loops are bad.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That last picture is incredible

 

[chicago]

That last picture is incredible

Dude...you should have SEEN the pile of debris from under that thing that I had swept up.
My lungs LOVE ME right now!
NEVER do I wanna do that again!

 

[Mikesta]

That last picture is incredible

Agreed.... you switched nationalities.

wow, that only took you 5 hours to scrape / wire weel? That body is really starting to look great!

 

[chicago]

Agreed.... you switched nationalities.

wow, that only took you 5 hours to scrape / wire weel? That body is really starting to look great!

Thanks for the props Mike!
ONLY 5 hours!? Seemed like DAYS doing that! I still have the upper portion that ramps up in the fire wall to do, but IMO that undercoating was the worst of it.

 

[chicago]

Not sure what to do about new under coating...
Ive run search...Ive read that the rubberized is not only a mess, but it can actually promote rust?
The two options are rubberized and bed liner.
Im leaning toward the bed liner. Had it on the exterior of my 62, and it held up AWESOME. Even after leaning the rig into a boulder, just a little bit of it flaked off, the rest just braised.

Any recs?