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chicago said:
I actually did NOT know that, so thanks for the tip. Ill wipe the whole thing down with acetone before I shoot, so that should take the marker OFF.
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One place where I worked the breaker/power panels for all the machinery had loads of notes written all over them that were no longer pertinent. We decided to paint and clean things up. The markers bled through the first coat of paint, then the second, and the third. We had to use a special shellac based paint designed to cover stains.

I don't know if the same thing is pertinent for auto paint, but I don't think you want to find out the hard way.

Don
 
You might want to check the paint forum, but I'm pretty sure by the time you get everything de-greased there won't be any marker left.
FYI IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol)is a lot cheaper than acetone, also not as tightly regulated.
 
rusty_tlc said:
You might want to check the paint forum, but I'm pretty sure by the time you get everything de-greased there won't be any marker left.
FYI IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol)is a lot cheaper than acetone, also not as tightly regulated.
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I like cheaper!!!
Can you contain that in a plastic spray bottle! Acetone will eat plastic.
 
chicago said:
I like cheaper!!!
Can you contain that in a plastic spray bottle! Acetone will eat plastic.
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Same as regular alcohol. We use it in spray bottles all the time.
 
So I picked up a swing out lock...which was ultimately what lead to the discovery that my ORIGINAL swing out design was F*$KED!
Finally got that installed this eve. I think it was designed to go THROUGH the tubing, but that wasnt an option for me. I was worried about the tubing piece warping, and.....it DID, so I had to drill it out some.
This also functions as a "safety" just in case the primary latch fails. 20 bucks from a co. called "pivot king". met the dude at a 4 wheel expo a few mos. back.
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chicago said:
So I picked up a swing out lock...which was ultimately what lead to the discovery that my ORIGINAL swing out design was F*$KED!
Finally got that installed this eve. I think it was designed to go THROUGH the tubing, but that wasnt an option for me. I was worried about the tubing piece warping, and.....it DID, so I had to drill it out some.
This also functions as a "safety" just in case the primary latch fails. 20 bucks from a co. called "pivot king". met the dude at a 4 wheel expo a few mos. back.
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Damn your welds look nice!:clap:
 
chicago said:
I like cheaper!!!
Can you contain that in a plastic spray bottle! Acetone will eat plastic.
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I have no experience with using isopropyl alcohol to remove felt marker. My experience has been with lacquer thinner. We used lacquer thinner to clean contact cement, ink pen, and felt marker off when doing laminate work and kept it in plastic squeeze bottles. I'm not sure how the o-rings in a spray bottle would hold up to lacquer thinner, but the rest of the bottle is safe. It has a very potent vapor just like acetone though so it may be in the same class as acetone for regulations.

Don
 
handcannon said:
I have no experience with using isopropyl alcohol to remove felt marker. My experience has been with lacquer thinner. We used lacquer thinner to clean contact cement, ink pen, and felt marker off when doing laminate work and kept it in plastic squeeze bottles. I'm not sure how the o-rings in a spray bottle would hold up to lacquer thinner, but the rest of the bottle is safe. It has a very potent vapor just like acetone though so it may be in the same class as acetone for regulations.

Don
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IPA is great for de-greasing, not so much for stuff like contact cement. It works pretty well on Sharpie marks. I use it at work a lot.
 
Laquer thinner is the way to go on metal to prep before paint, keep doors open and wipe off with a clean cloth before it evaporates. It desolves all silicone and other solvents left on the metal including marker ink. Oh and wait untill all remains are evaporated before you start to put primer on.
 
Well, all that is left is to mount my 2M antenna and then I can start on the remaining body work. So I'll pull the tub this weekend. On the front cowiling, there is a vent of sorts. Not sure what it's there for, but there are drain holes in the bottom of it. I'm just gonna cover that whole thing up and weld in a new piece. The drains themselves are pretty shot, and there is no easy way to get to them. I guess they're supposed to drain down and out through the trans tunnel. Seems like a bad design to begin with.
 
waiting for time said:
Damn your welds look nice!:clap:
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Thanks man!:beer:

rusty_tlc said:
Zipgraver (AKA Pivot King)makes some nice stuff, have you ever seen any of his engraving work? The man is an artist.
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No....I didnt know that about him. I thought he just did these little spindle and latch deals. He was a really nice guy. He can make those pins any length you want really. I kinda wish that I would have had him make THIS ONE a bit shorter, but I was originally gonna weld it to the spindle tube. I mocked it up that way, but....it would only allow for a 90* swing out, and I wanted a little more space than that so this was how I had to do it.:meh:

handcannon said:
I have no experience with using isopropyl alcohol to remove felt marker. My experience has been with lacquer thinner. We used lacquer thinner to clean contact cement, ink pen, and felt marker off when doing laminate work and kept it in plastic squeeze bottles. I'm not sure how the o-rings in a spray bottle would hold up to lacquer thinner, but the rest of the bottle is safe. It has a very potent vapor just like acetone though so it may be in the same class as acetone for regulations.


Don
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Im not gonna get too hung up on what I use to prep the surface with. Rusty is gonna hook me up with the IPA and if there is some really stubborn stuff I have some acetone on hand.10ft. paint job. All I care about.Want it to look HALF WAY decent rollin to the trail for the FIRST TIME, then after that....Dont really WANT TO CARE about it after that. Not that I WANT to destroy it or anything, but its a rock rig.
 
rusty_tlc said:
IPA is great for de-greasing, not so much for stuff like contact cement. It works pretty well on Sharpie marks. I use it at work a lot.
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Good info! Thanks!!

Don

ps-- I never thought about it until now. I think IPA is what we use to de-grease the laminate and the resin formed sink before epoxying them together when we do undermount sinks in a laminate countertop.
 
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chicago said:
On the front cowiling, there is a vent of sorts. Not sure what it's there for, but there are drain holes in the bottom of it. I'm just gonna cover that whole thing up and weld in a new piece. The drains themselves are pretty shot, and there is no easy way to get to them. I guess they're supposed to drain down and out through the trans tunnel. Seems like a bad design to begin with.
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Actually, that vent is the "fresh air" for the original HVAC system. Does your new heater system require a fresh air source? If not, then cover away.

Jack
 
locrwln1 said:
Actually, that vent is the "fresh air" for the original HVAC system. Does your new heater system require a fresh air source? If not, then cover away.

Jack
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Jack,
No. It does not. I couldn't figure that out. It basically a sink with a grate over it with two ports in the bottom. I don't see where it supplies fresh air?? Honestly, I thought it was more decorative than anything.

Thanks for the info. ;)
 
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Ah Ha! From the same thread

Poser said:
55881-60010 is the part number for that gasket....



I believe the functionality of that vent was deleted by Toyota in 1972, (and finally getting rid of the hole in the cowl altogether in 1978) and that the later tubs do not have the provisions for mounting or controlling the vent mechanism, so if you wanted to make yours function, you would need to figure out how to mount the vent mechanism.

In Coolermans picture, you can see the mounting tabs for the cowl vent mechanism, and the control rod pivot bracket as well.


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