Check VGRS System Light (1 Viewer)

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Docboy

Docboy

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I swear my LX is cursed. Seems like after I hit 105k miles a lot of things have needed repairs. A few months ago $4k for a list of maintenance repair/items. Then a few weeks ago I had to deal with a busted radiator that left me without a car for 2 days. I thought all was well after a new radiator was placed. This morning a warning light and message came on: "Check VGRS System."

A quick Google search suggests causes could range any from a loose gas gap to low battery to defective ECU in the steering rack. My indy shop says a diagnostic eval is needed to find the cause, could be anything. He says the truck is still safe to drive since the steering system is still couldn't get me in today, so I'm going next Fri morning to have him look at it.

Didn't realize how much maintenance and repairs are needed for the LX at 112k miles.
 
Idk anything about that one, but I'm almost positive there is a VGRS section in Techstream that would give you a more specific reason for the issue. Might be worth the 70 bucks or so seeing as how you are having issues. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly. Until then maybe this can help.

forum.ih8mud.com

VGRS light

After working on a couple issues I thought I would pull together the info found in other threads and spots on the web. VGRS - Variable Gear Ratio Steering System On VGRS equipped models this adjusts the wheel turning angle at low speeds Light flashing - This is common after the...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
Update: I took the LX back to an Indy shop who replaced the entire steering rack a few months ago. Tech claims there may something wrong with an actuator (not related to the steering rack per tech). They also tested the battery; found it giving low amps. Current battery is an old BOSCH unit that was leaking; I have no idea how old the battery is. Battery was in the vehicle when I bought it 3 years ago. Tech thinks maybe sometime ago the battery current was low and set off the check VGRS light. So he reset the VGRS system. Total diagnositic fee: $150. Tech recommends replacing the battery and see if it will help; says if the VGRS light comes back on, the actuator will need to be replaced. Sounds pricey!!!

The shop wanted $125 for a new battery + $~75 for the install. I declined and then bought an Interstate battery from Costco with a 3 year warranty. $95 -$15 core return fee. Install was simple. Only thing I had to deal with was a metal bar that held the battery in place which was caked in battery acid (that I cleaned off).

It's been 3 days and no VGRS light, so keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Check VGRS light popped up again this morning. Ugh. Anyone have this light show up?
 
It would be cheap enough to buy a new gas cap and see if that fixes it.
 
LBridges said:
Plug it in and let us know if it shows any codes.
Click to expand...

Autel reader shows no codes.

I went back to the Indy today for an oil change. He turned off the light, doesn't know what caused the Check VGRS system message to pop up. Claims that if message comes on again, he would need to replace the steering actuator. $3k! Ouch!

I might invest in a Techstream. I can use Techstream to see what's wrong and turn off the message if necessary? Can someone post a link and recommend one for purchase? Saw one on Amazon for $60 but not sure if it's legit.

Not sure if it matters but I recently had all 4 tires changed about 4 weeks ago. Would the new tires affect the steering system?
 
Sac Cerevisiae said:
A simple ODB-ii reader can give and clear codes. Some can even access vehicle customization options.

For reference, I have the ODBlink MX+ and I can read/clear codes as well as change settings
Click to expand...

I thought the Autel was a ODB2 reader as well? But for some reason my Autel is not picking up any codes.
 
Can't really make much of a diagnostic without the specific trouble code. With that, there's specific troubleshooting steps in the FSM to help diagnose.

I'd encourage you to continue to get the right code reader / techstream.

Any chance you can contact the shop that previously did your diagnostic to get trouble code from them?
 
Sac Cerevisiae said:
What specific product/model?

Could be a software issue as well. Have you tried other Bluetooth/WiFi enabled software on your phone?
Click to expand...

I have the Autel AL319 Autel AL319

Haven't done any updates to the reader fwiw.

Which phone software are you referring to? Is it a free or paid app? I have an android.

TeCKis300 said:
Can't really make much of a diagnostic without the specific trouble code. With that, there's specific troubleshooting steps in the FSM to help diagnose.

I'd encourage you to continue to get the right code reader / techstream.

Any chance you can contact the shop that previously did your diagnostic to get trouble code from them?
Click to expand...

I can try, doubt he'll give it to me. He couldn't give me a straight answer on what cause the warning message to come back on. Claimed it was something "electrical."

Do you have a techstream? If so, can you share link where I may be able to buy one? Believe I saw one on Amazon for ~$60, not sure if it's legit.
 
That's too bad if they won't give it to you. You did pay for the diagnostic after all, and it would be your right to have that info. Especially as they haven't been able to fix the problem for you.

Techstream - I got mine awhile ago. This thread in the 100-series forum might be able to help, with the newer posts having current purchase links. Basically, get yourself the right cable. You can download the techstream software encapsulated in a virtual machine in the first post of that thread.

forum.ih8mud.com

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

Getting Techstream up and running can be a bit of a pain. Hopefully this helps someone get started quickly. Step 1: Purchase an OBD-II / Mini-VCI interface. - I have sold out of my cables and supply chains are back in order, so no reason to purchase more. Anything like this will work: Mini-VCI...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
TeCKis300 said:
That's too bad if they won't give it to you. You did pay for the diagnostic after all, and it would be your right to have that info. Especially as they haven't been able to fix the problem for you.

Techstream - I got mine awhile ago. This thread in the 100-series forum might be able to help, with the newer posts having current purchase links. Basically, get yourself the right cable. You can download the techstream software encapsulated in a virtual machine in the first post of that thread.

forum.ih8mud.com

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

Getting Techstream up and running can be a bit of a pain. Hopefully this helps someone get started quickly. Step 1: Purchase an OBD-II / Mini-VCI interface. - I have sold out of my cables and supply chains are back in order, so no reason to purchase more. Anything like this will work: Mini-VCI...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip Teck. 2 pages from the end of above thread there's this cable: Amazon product ASIN B087CZDF4H
You think above cable is ok? Software on page 1 is a good find; I went ahead and downloaded on my laptop.
 
Well this just happened today, very scary and potentially dangerous!

On the way back home on the freeway from a day trip, I noticed my entire dashboard started to flicker. Then a message "check 4wd AHC" popped up. Also felt like the engine cut in and out. Dash board continued to flicker for 15-20 seconds, I continue to feel like engine cut in and out. I immediately pulled to the right side of the freeway, dashboard went blank, steering wheel locked, and the car suddenly died.

I restarted the car, noticed on the nav screen a complete reboot.

Car drove fine for 25-30min, then the car started to feel the engine cut in and out. Dashboard went blank for a few seconds but came back on. Was able to make it back home.

Dealership service dept was of course closed today and tomorrow due to holiday. Going to make an appt and bring the car in Tues to the dealership.

Any ideas if the check vgrs system message and what happened today are related?
 
Very possible.

It sounds like a fault in the electrical system that's causing any number of unspecific error codes. Particularly higher draw devices.

Could be something within the alternator regulator failing. Regulation function working intermittently and possibly overheating and overdrawing the batt after some time, causing the voltage in the electrical system to collapse.

Do you have a voltmeter to see what the state of charge on the battery is? Dealership should be able to troubleshoot and get to the root of the problem.
 
TeCKis300 said:
Very possible.

It sounds like a fault in the electrical system that's causing any number of unspecific error codes. Particularly higher draw devices.

Could be something within the alternator regulator failing. Regulation function working intermittently and possibly overheating and overdrawing the batt after some time, causing the voltage in the electrical system to collapse.

Do you have a voltmeter to see what the state of charge on the battery is? Dealership should be able to troubleshoot and get to the root of the problem.
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying. I used a voltmeter. Got a reading of 12.67V

Battery should be ok? Is there a way to check the alternator?
 
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