Chassis paint recommendation (3 Viewers)

[Pete]

Hey Guys,

Got only one reply to this post on the Paint and Body forum so I'm reposting here.

Looking for recommendations on black paint for frame, suspension, steering, bumpers, brush guard, etc. This is for a '76 FJ40 that will be used primarily off-road, mainly dirt and mud, not a show rig but want it to look decent. Looking for a paint (prefer brush applied) that will be durable and stand up to mud and abrasion, pressure washing and what-not. I've had pretty good past experience with POR-15 Chassis Coat Black (now maybe called just Top Coat) but open to something new, like Bill Hirsch Super Black Chassis Paint. Any comments or experience with this paint?

Thanks Guys!
Pete

 

[eaj71]

CHASSIS SAVER.

 

[Drake2]

You will get a range of recommendations here but I recently bought a gallon of this Tamco 1K product. They have some good videos on YT and it was recommended to me by another IH8Mudder who really liked his results using Tamco products

DTM Primers & Epoxies

All Primers in the 53xx Series are Now DIRECT TO RUST, not only just DTM Like our clears, we wanted to develop ultra-high-quality foundation primers. Our 5300 series primers boast a true direct to metal resin (same as in our clears) which means it can be used on the entire vehicle. Many others...

tamcopaint.com

MonoCoat 1K Direct to Rust - Black

MonoCoat 1K is a Direct to Rust Urethane. It's a moisture-curing coating is a type of coating that cures due to the presence of moisture in the atmosphere. This coating forms a protective coating film by reacting chemically with the moisture in the air. It is designed to paint directly over...

tamcopaint.com

 

[tls3601]

Using Rustoleum Gloss Enamel Black. Goes on easy, adheres very well, easy to touch up or clean.

 

[Pete]

CHASSIS SAVER.

Who makes this?
Thanks, Pete

 

[61twpw]

Magnet Paints makes the Chassis Saver line. I used the silver first, then black on my fj55. Got mine on eBay.

 

[macdaddy59]

I also used the Tamco Chassis black and really like it.

 

[too tall]

I have started using "steel it" lately . It is conductive so you can weld through it after the fact. It is tougher than most other paints I have tried. If you blow it with an HVLP you'll need to use something with a big tip. I use a 1.8 as you cannot dilute the product. I think the spray bombs are pretty good but pricey.

 

[Fedtime]

I have used KBS Coatings products on two builds. Easy to apply and good coverage. So far, I am happy with the results.

 

[SteveH]

Rustoleum Satin black in a quart can - brushed on. Satin hides brush marks for the most part. Oil-based.

 

[Jetlander]

I know you’re after black paint but have you considered galvanizing it and being done with chasing rust forever? Definitely one of the best decisions I made on mine.

 

[Daniel cochran]

Hey Guys,

Got only one reply to this post on the Paint and Body forum so I'm reposting here.

Looking for recommendations on black paint for frame, suspension, steering, bumpers, brush guard, etc. This is for a '76 FJ40 that will be used primarily off-road, mainly dirt and mud, not a show rig but want it to look decent. Looking for a paint (prefer brush applied) that will be durable and stand up to mud and abrasion, pressure washing and what-not. I've had pretty good past experience with POR-15 Chassis Coat Black (now maybe called just Top Coat) but open to something new, like Bill Hirsch Super Black Chassis Paint. Any comments or experience with this paint?

Thanks Guys!
Pete

Pete

Great question
I’ve got a 75 fj40 with same concerns . Let me know what you go with .
Also if you do any bead blasting or sand .

 

[FishTacos]

Using Rustoleum Gloss Enamel Black. Goes on easy, adheres very well, easy to touch up or clean.

Rustoleum Satin black in a quart can - brushed on. Satin hides brush marks for the most part. Oil-based.

This is what I did.

However, first I put a couple of hours of wire wheel to it with various tools (angle grinder, pneumatic die grinder with brush attachments, hand brush for difficult spots, etc..) Then applied Oshpo phosphoric acid solution. Brushed off the white gunk, rustoleum primer, semi-gloss black cut with mineral spirits in the gun. Coated as much of the interior of the frame as possible. It has held up really well. Havent had to touch up but when I do it will be easy. And it's super cheap.

Edit: oh, one more thing. Degreaser, a powerful one. Then powerful detergent in hot water. Then pressure wash. Before the Ospho.

 

[tls3601]

This is what I did.

However, first I put a couple of hours of wire wheel to it with various tools (angle grinder, pneumatic die grinder with brush attachments, hand brush for difficult spots, etc..) Then applied Oshpo phosphoric acid solution. Brushed off the white gunk, rustoleum primer, semi-gloss black cut with mineral spirits in the gun. Coated as much of the interior of the frame as possible. It has held up really well. Havent had to touch up but when I do it will be easy. And it's super cheap.

Edit: oh, one more thing. Degreaser, a powerful one. Then powerful detergent in hot water. Then pressure wash. Before the Ospho.

Yep did the same prep, adheres very well

 

[tls3601]

This is what I did.

However, first I put a couple of hours of wire wheel to it with various tools (angle grinder, pneumatic die grinder with brush attachments, hand brush for difficult spots, etc..) Then applied Oshpo phosphoric acid solution. Brushed off the white gunk, rustoleum primer, semi-gloss black cut with mineral spirits in the gun. Coated as much of the interior of the frame as possible. It has held up really well. Havent had to touch up but when I do it will be easy. And it's super cheap.

Edit: oh, one more thing. Degreaser, a powerful one. Then powerful detergent in hot water. Then pressure wash. Before the Ospho.

I personally used the Purple Power degreaser, very effective stuff.

 

[franklin40]

i galvanized mine then used the por-15 series. i live where they use chemicals and salt on our winter roads so i went with belt and suspenders!!

 

[Pete]

Thanks Guys! I got Magnet Paints ("CHASSIS SAVER"), Tamco. Rustoleum, KBS, POR-15, and Steel It. Rustoleum was mentioned most often. I think I'll go with Rustoleum because I'm sure it's the cheapest and is available virtually anywhere and I've used it a lot, spray can not brush on. I'll mostly use brush on this time around.

Galvanizing is out for most of what I want to cover as it's not a "frame off" and because I have a heavy duty bull bar in front which is welded to the frame as is the rear tube bumper. I wouldn't have done it like this myself as the PO did but I've let things be because the welding looks to have been done by a pro and because the front and rear are well-protected.

Thanks again, Pete

 

[JAG666]

Hey Guys,

Got only one reply to this post on the Paint and Body forum so I'm reposting here.

Looking for recommendations on black paint for frame, suspension, steering, bumpers, brush guard, etc. This is for a '76 FJ40 that will be used primarily off-road, mainly dirt and mud, not a show rig but want it to look decent. Looking for a paint (prefer brush applied) that will be durable and stand up to mud and abrasion, pressure washing and what-not. I've had pretty good past experience with POR-15 Chassis Coat Black (now maybe called just Top Coat) but open to something new, like Bill Hirsch Super Black Chassis Paint. Any comments or experience with this paint?

Thanks Guys!
Pete

During the years I did Restorations, I painted ALL the frames, underbody parts (inner fenders, etc.) with PPG's DP90.. This is an epoxy paint, black in color and, by all reports, VERY resistant to rock chips (like in those flipped-up from the road!).. The "90" in the DP90 is the color black, "40" is a red oxide.. I'll use DP40 as a first coat on a bare body, sometimes followed by DP90 when I'm going for the "slicked-out" paint job.. I sand the "40" "pretty smooth" then, after the "90" had cured, I get it "baby butt smooth".. If I sand thru the black to the red, I reapply a coat of "90".. this way I never sand back down to bare metal.. Once I'm pleased with the "DP" coats of paint, I'll spray the gray Sanding Primer.. THIS gets the REAL SLICK sanding job.. Same goes, if I sand thru to the DP90, I'll respray a coat or two of the sanding primer

Hey Guys,

Got only one reply to this post on the Paint and Body forum so I'm reposting here.

Looking for recommendations on black paint for frame, suspension, steering, bumpers, brush guard, etc. This is for a '76 FJ40 that will be used primarily off-road, mainly dirt and mud, not a show rig but want it to look decent. Looking for a paint (prefer brush applied) that will be durable and stand up to mud and abrasion, pressure washing and what-not. I've had pretty good past experience with POR-15 Chassis Coat Black (now maybe called just Top Coat) but open to something new, like Bill Hirsch Super Black Chassis Paint. Any comments or experience with this paint?

Thanks Guys!
Pete

When I was doing (full frame-off) restorations of Tri-Five Chevy's (and others), I found THE BEST (my opinion and a LOT of other resto shops, as well) paint to use on "Freshly Sandblasted" chassis and "hard parts", to be PPG's "DP90"..
Before I started using the DP90, I talked to a number of folks in local "driver" car clubs, ALL swore by using the DP90 as it cured hard AND was highly resistant to rock chips created by "road-runs"! While it is a "primer", it can successfully protect as a "top coat" (over bare metal) on ALL parts of the undercarriage. Not cheap, BUT well worth the cost!!
The "cured color" of the DP90 is a "satin black".. neither shiny nor dull.. In my opinion, it "looks right" for frames, etc. (PPG makes other colors in the "DP" format, as well. no "plug", just sayin')
Charles 1974 FJ40

 

[FishTacos]

Thanks Guys! I got Magnet Paints ("CHASSIS SAVER"), Tamco. Rustoleum, KBS, POR-15, and Steel It. Rustoleum was mentioned most often. I think I'll go with Rustoleum because I'm sure it's the cheapest and is available virtually anywhere and I've used it a lot, spray can not brush on. I'll mostly use brush on this time around.

Galvanizing is out for most of what I want to cover as it's not a "frame off" and because I have a heavy duty bull bar in front which is welded to the frame as is the rear tube bumper. I wouldn't have done it like this myself as the PO did but I've let things be because the welding looks to have been done by a pro and because the front and rear are well-protected.

Thanks again, Pete

I hope you're at least going as far as separating the body from the frame. Or removing the 3/4 tub at the absolute minimum. There really isn't much point in trying to coat the frame in anything other than a stopgap solution if you aren't. You simply cannot do the necessary prep without access to every surface of the frame.

While this is no small task, it is FAR easier than almost any other vehicle. You don't need a lift to do it. 4 able bodied people can lift the body with relative ease. An engine hoist can be used effectively if you must work alone.

Also, rattle can will work but it will be much more expensive than a quart of rustoleum primer and paint. I think I used about a pint of primer and just under a quart of black. A reasonable hplv gun can be had for less than 30$. Sure, you can spend 10 times that, or more, but if you don't plan on doing a ton of painting the cheap ones will suit you for thinned rustoleum. The trick is to completely disassemble the gun and clean in meticulously before using it. I found globs of silicone and lithium grease inside mine for some strange reason. I guess they had a surplus of that stuff in Communist China at the time.

If you're NOT separating the body, and you just want to put something on it that will slow the advancement of the rust, just clean it as best you can with wire brushes and brillo pads, and baste it in boiled linseed oil mixed with equal parts molten bees wax or parafin. If you do this, and you later decide to paint the frame, you will have to send it out to the frame spa to get professionally decreased and blasted.

If you do decide to separate the frame from the rest of the running gear and body you might want to look into having it professionally sandblasted. It's less expensive than you may think. You then would have more paint system options because the frame will be quite receptive to the more finicky ones.

Good luck.

 

[bhoyles55]

I hope you're at least going as far as separating the body from the frame. Or removing the 3/4 tub at the absolute minimum. There really isn't much point in trying to coat the frame in anything other than a stopgap solution if you aren't. You simply cannot do the necessary prep without access to every surface of the frame.

While this is no small task, it is FAR easier than almost any other vehicle. You don't need a lift to do it. 4 able bodied people can lift the body with relative ease. An engine hoist can be used effectively if you must work alone.

Also, rattle can will work but it will be much more expensive than a quart of rustoleum primer and paint. I think I used about a pint of primer and just under a quart of black. A reasonable hplv gun can be had for less than 30$. Sure, you can spend 10 times that, or more, but if you don't plan on doing a ton of painting the cheap ones will suit you for thinned rustoleum. The trick is to completely disassemble the gun and clean in meticulously before using it. I found globs of silicone and lithium grease inside mine for some strange reason. I guess they had a surplus of that stuff in Communist China at the time.

If you're NOT separating the body, and you just want to put something on it that will slow the advancement of the rust, just clean it as best you can with wire brushes and brillo pads, and baste it in boiled linseed oil mixed with equal parts molten bees wax or parafin. If you do this, and you later decide to paint the frame, you will have to send it out to the frame spa to get professionally decreased and blasted.

If you do decide to separate the frame from the rest of the running gear and body you might want to look into having it professionally sandblasted. It's less expensive than you may think. You then would have more paint system options because the frame will be quite receptive to the more finicky ones.

Good luck.

curious what paint options you would recommend if going the sandblasting route? I have an fj55 frame/axles that I'm going to sandblast. Guy at the local auto paint store suggested 2 coats epoxy primer and 2 coats polyurethane chassis paint. With hardener, additives, etc. I'm at $230/gal for the primer and $220/gal. for paint. Plan on spraying all coats with HVLP sprayer.