Charcoal Canister Rebuild - going for it (1 Viewer)

[Randy88FJ62]

A weld on flange that assembles from the bottom and sits at the top lip. Many ways to tackle this beast. Maybe @NLXTACY could take it on. Apparently he has fab and design skilz.

A stand alone unit could work for 60, 62, 80, and FZJ80's.... There is a market for this and people are paying at least $60 for POS plastic ones.

 

[NLXTACY]

This has been on my “to do” list for awhile. The 80 Series one is almost the same.

 

[FJACS]

Cut the thing in the middle and use a v-band setup.

 

[sd60]

that there is some helpful canister photography. thanks Randy.

 

[gregnash]

Cut the thing in the middle and use a v-band setup.

Yeah this was the other idea that I was tossing around however I believe that the overall diameter of the canister would be too large for this not to be a "custom" v-band. Whereas, with some digging you could probably find a thread coupler/ring setup from pipe that would fit or be close.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Problem with cutting in the middle is loading in the carbon correctly while feeling the spring tension when installing the cap. Doable for sure but not as purdy.

 

[gregnash]

Problem with cutting in the middle is loading in the carbon correctly while feeling the spring tension when installing the cap. Doable for sure but not as purdy.

yeah plan would be to keep the "contraption" as high as possible so you can load the proper amount of charcoal in.

 

[4Cruisers]

This has been on my “to do” list for awhile. The 80 Series one is almost the same.

A canister that is suitable for either the FJ60 or the FJ62 would be great. The FJ60 just has the extra nipple, that could be capped for use on an FJ62.

 

[wimberosa]

Bail spring latch is the best bet....cheapest....and allows opening it back up. Its the type of latch with a hook (that would go over the lip on the top flange) and then has a "flip down to lock" pressure applying clasp. Either rivet or spot weld the clasp part to the side of the canister. Coat the rim between the top and the can with some rtv. I'll probably try this on my build thread as I need to rework my CC as well.

 

[4Cruisers]

Bail spring latch is the best bet....cheapest....and allows opening it back up. Its the type of latch with a hook (that would go over the lip on the top flange) and then has a "flip down to lock" pressure applying clasp.

Or the clamps on a Land Cruiser (FJ60 and ???) air cleaner housing. Or Toyota distributor cap hold-down clamps - I've got at least several dozen new cap clamps in my stash.

 

[wimberosa]

I took this thing apart today...and I'm not even sure it needs clamps if you leave most of the lip on there. There's really no active vacuum on the thing (the hose at the bottom is a completely open port)....so I don't think it will really take much to seal it back up. rtv by itself will probably do it.

As an aside ... I took mine apart because 1) I had charcoal coming out practically every port 2) i was replacing a hose at the top leading to the external valve (this is fj40 specific I think) and the valve was full of charcoal. When I opened it up the two filter papers were broken apart and mixed in with the charcoal. No wonder the thing had charcoal spilling out every port. I have some filter paper that I use for other stuff (EGR modulator, HAC filter) that I'll put back in with new charcoal etc. Will post pics when I do it.

Bottom line...this charcoal canister actually looks super easy to refresh. I see no reason why I'd ever replace this with that plastic GM canister that most end up as a replacement.