Charcoal Canister Rebuild - going for it (1 Viewer)

[Randy88FJ62]

I have a spare charcoal canister (yes, both don't work) and I have decided to give the aquarium activated carbon a chance. It arrives today so yesterday was a cleaning and can opening day.

Between this and the $22 gas filler neck upgrade that I just completed I am hoping my system will be working 100%.

 

[MrMacdugal]

Interested to follow this. Just started chasing a fuel smell myself. Just ordered a new gas cap and other than checking the rear quarter near the filler and lines, the cc is my next step if the cap does not solve the issue. Keep us posted for sure and document with as many pics as possible. They say what words do not.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

There are two gaskets that you can easily replace on the filler neck. One where you put the gas nozzle in (it sandwiches between the filler neck and body) and another where the filler neck exits the bottom of the quarter panel. Both those gaskets are cheap on partsouq and would conceal any outside smells.

I replaced those two gaskets, the filler neck mod with new neck and cap, filler neck hose that connects to gas tank, and now this charcoal canister. I have been limping along with the cheat where you swap the charcoal canister lines but it's about time to do it correctly.

Ill do my best to take more pictures although this has been covered in the 80-series forum.

 

[OSS]

It's not the old activated carbon in the canisters that cause the canisters to cause problems, it's the inlet check valve getting stuck.

Free that check valve up so it works properly or might as well toss the whole mess in the trash.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Check valve cleaned and ready. Ball is moving freely.

 

[Spike Strip]

Randy, if possible, can you post a pic of your ball

I've never seen what one of those bastids looks like, and I've never been able to get one un-stuck after they corrode in the can.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The weird part is the inside of my canister looks brand new. The coating on the spring, which looks like a nice yellow zinc coating is perfect. The two ports protruding from the top of the canister are made from what looks like to be one piece of cast aluminum. This aluminum piece has two holes that you can see from the inside. One of the holes has a bee bee in it with what I assume is a spring behind it. My guess is they install the spring and ball then peen/stake the top to keep the ball in place. I am not sure why mine was not working if the insides look so good.

 

[gregnash]

Sub'd!!! I have a spare that I picked up earlier this year that I was planning on refurbing. While mine hasn't been giving me issues as of yet, I am sure at some point down the road it will..

 

[Randy88FJ62]

 

[Randy88FJ62]

 

[Randy88FJ62]

 

[Randy88FJ62]

 

[Randy88FJ62]

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Missed these.

 

[Spike Strip]

Great write up and pix, Randy! Thanks!

 

[Randy88FJ62]

The two nipple fittings coming out of the top of the canister are riveted in (4 of them) to the bottom tube assy in the canister lid. One could easily make or buy a threaded steel jar and install the proper pieces to make a completely rebuild-able canister.

 

[gregnash]

You didn't happen to measure the ID of the canister after you had taken to top off did you? In my mind what I had been thinking of was seeing if you could find some sort of insert that would be threaded (like a jar) that you could then thread the top back on/into allowing for future maintenance?

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I did not but it wouldn't be impossible to cut the other one open if I got bored. The canister wall thickness doesn't look good for threading. You then get back into clamping something on top (like a member did in the 80 section) or sourcing an entire new threaded tube to then mod all the parts onto. It wouldn't be hard if you could source said threaded tube in the correct or close dimensions.

 

[gregnash]

I did not but it wouldn't be impossible to cut the other one open if I got bored. The canister wall thickness doesn't look good for threading. You then get back into clamping something on top (like a member did in the 80 section) or sourcing an entire new threaded tube to then mod all the parts onto. It wouldn't be hard if you could source said threaded tube in the correct or close dimensions.

Right that is what I was thinking... Do something like a PVC pipe coupler that is threaded on one end. Then "mount" the threaded insert to the top end allowing you to thread the two pieces together. Yeah hardest part would be finding the proper side couplers for both ends. I have a spare at home too that I purchased just for this reason, but been working on other projects.

 

[NookShneer]

@gregnash Someone needs to manufacture a weld on screwable threaded ring. If you could simply unscrew the top then you could service the valve / adjust the charcoal level or what not.