Charcoal canister hookup (1 Viewer)

[albert110]

I feel like I should have been able to find this out on my own but I'm a little stumped... I had to replace my charcoal canister with an ACDelco 215-153 since the check valve is completely glued in place. I understand that the bottom air line is made redundant with this setup so I can cap that off, but I'm a little confused about the fresh air attachment on top, should I connect that to the VSV, or leave it open and plug the VSV? I have all my smog equipment intact but It's bypassed for the moment while I work through the emissions manual and figure out why I've got this stumbling issue.
Thanks for any insight.
-A

 

[bhk]

I just installed the AC Delco 215-153 last weekend. The challenge with the replacement canisters is that they are designed for fuel injected vehicles and don't have an inlet for the carb vent, just a single inlet for the tank.

Leave the fresh air inlet as it is; it's meant to let in, well, fresh air. The top line on the canister is the purge. That'll hook up just like the original. You shouldn't have to do anything with the VSV on the driver's side. To keep both the carb vent (outer Vent Control Valve) and the tank vent, you'll need to tee these together into the single tank inlet on the canister. The VCV is big, 10+mm, the tank line is ~6mm (1/4") and the tank inlet on the canister is 5/16". I used a 3/8"-3/8"-1/4" reducing tee to connect the tank line and the VCV and a 3/8"-5/16" adapter to connect the tee to the tank inlet on the canister. You may be able to get away with just using 5/16" hose but I thought this was a cleaner install.

It's a tight fit if you leave the VCV in it's original spot on the band clamp. I relocated mine to attach nearly flush with the hard line on the firewall. For the band clamp, I used a 6mm x 60mm bolt. I found it easier to just pull everything out vs. trying to cram the canister into the band clamp while it was still installed in the truck.

 

[albert110]

@bhk, thanks a ton, that was a tremendously helpful response. I was having trouble figuring out how to make a good looking retrofit out of this without Micky Mousing something together, thanks a ton for the pics & dimensions!

 

[moyafj60]

PO removed charcoal filter, trying to figure out how to put one back in, having a hard time comparing photos with my engine bay, hoses seem to be completely gone.
I want to try the vc120 charcoal filter, can someone help with hose's/ routing, tees, check valves that I would need, I would also need a bracket, if anyone knows a good one...
de somged 87 fj 60

 

[g-man]

I think a large band clamp that goes around the charcoal canister at the top attached to a z bracket that connects to the engine bay would be the simplest fix for a bracket. Follow post #2 above in regards to T's and hose sizes, ask specific questions if you don't comprehend something.

 

[offroadin4fun]

It has recently come to light that I may be having canister issues as well, I have had a long range tank in my plan for years and am almost ready to do the conversion but feel I better check my canister out first. I had pressure in the tank for years and thought nothing of it until now it's gone and all sort of things have come into speculation of where that pressure went? I'm looking in the FSM at the factory way to test it but any other trouble shooting methods would be gratefully noted.

 

[seattlefj60]

I'm sorry if I didn't catch or understand this but I have installed the AC 215-153 on my FJ60 but does the splash cap need to removed to allow open air intake or does it need to stay capped? The directions are confusing to me and the OEM canister had the open air intake at the base.

 

[OSS]

The canister needs to be able to vent the pressure and fumes from the tank. If one hose connects to one pipe nipple, the remaining pipe nipple needs to be able to breathe. You can slide a piece of vinyl tubing over the vent line and blow to see if the canister will vent ok with its dust cap on.