Changing Spark Plugs (1 Viewer)

[80t0ylc]

Just got done with replacing plugs, plug wires, rotor, dizzy cap and fuel filter - all OEM through cdan(thanks Dan!). If I was to offer advice to ease in replacing #6 plug it would be to remove the 2 bolts holding heater valve to top of firewall. You can then easily shift valve and hoses aside to give you plenty of room to remove plug without wobble extension. Also, use OEM parts. Initial cost may be slightly more but in the long run they'll outlast the others. I've got 238K and plugs were last changed at 156K. The rest were original. Not bad!

 

[mattman555]

Hey All... thanks for the write up's especially around plug #6. I'm changing mine out over the weekend and the tips in this post are most helpful.

I think the wobble and swivels extensions are a great idea, I'll be picking some up before I start.

 

[mattman555]

I replaced mine last night with out any issues..

I used a ball joint separator to help pop the plug off.
I slipped it under the cover, applied some easy pressure, and it popped right off.
http://www.fordfocusstore.co.uk/store/images/ta338.jpg

Then I used the wobble bit and swivel joints to get the spark plug in and out.

 

[jaymar]

1995 LC

Changing wires / plugs / cap / rotor and have a few Qs...

Is .031 the proper gap?

How about plug torque?

I'm told 5/8 for the spark plug socket, with rubber grommet to avoid dropping plugs.

Recommend anti-seize / dielectric grease?

Anything else I need to know for this job?

Thanks for any help!

Good video:

 

[Blade 80LC]

As he says in the video, a simple job that's made less intimidating with having seen it done once. I was planning to answer your other questions about gap, torque, etc. but found threads with conflicting info and am too lazy to check my FSM. Some threads indicate .031 is right, others says .031 is for a 62 series and an FZJ gap should be .043" (1.1mm)

1995 LC

Changing wires / plugs / cap / rotor and have a few Qs...
Is .031 the proper gap?
How about plug torque?
I'm told 5/8 for the spark plug socket, with rubber grommet to avoid dropping plugs.
Recommend anti-seize / dielectric grease?
Anything else I need to know for this job?
Thanks for any help!
Good video:

 

[FJonny81]

Does anyone know if all OEM plugs come pre gapped? I have the Denso K16R-U’s

 

[jaymar]

Does anyone know if all OEM plugs come pre gapped? I have the Denso K16R-U’s

Mine did not, and wouldn’t trust that anyway; easy enough to DIY.

 

[BILT4ME]

Does anyone know if all OEM plugs come pre gapped? I have the Denso K16R-U’s

They arrive very close. I had one out of six that needed adjustment.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

Factory OEM spacing is 8mm?

 

[BILT4ME]

Factory OEM spacing is 8mm?

No.

 

[jonheld]

Factory OEM spacing is 8mm?

For the FZJ80 1FZ-FE engine (1993-1997) correct electrode gap: 0.8 mm (0.031 in.)
For the FJ80 3F-E engine (1991-1992) correct electrode gap: 1.1 mm (0.043 in.)
For the FJ62 3F-E engine (1987-1990) correct electrode gap: 0.8 mm (0.031 in.)

This is all available to you in the factory service manual.

 

[FJonny81]

They arrive very close. I had one out of six that needed adjustment.

 

[jaymar]

Just got done with replacing plugs, plug wires, rotor, dizzy cap and fuel filter - all OEM through cdan(thanks Dan!). If I was to offer advice to ease in replacing #6 plug it would be to remove the 2 bolts holding heater valve to top of firewall. You can then easily shift valve and hoses aside to give you plenty of room to remove plug without wobble extension. Also, use OEM parts. Initial cost may be slightly more but in the long run they'll outlast the others. I've got 238K and plugs were last changed at 156K. The rest were original. Not bad!

I would add that it might also be a good time to replace that HCV, if not already done. Anytime you go jostling an old one around--have a new one on hand...