CDL relay chatter

[asutherland]

Ok I nee to get them off and apart first.

Just to confirm you recon that that they must be locked before removal?? Surely you are right and if not working there is no option.

I get the pont about locking them before reassembly. Well made by you.

Ta Chalky

When in the locked position there is less "play" in the gears. So when you reassemble it's in the exact right spot. If it's unlocked, then there's a bit of play in the gears and it's more difficult to get it lined up perfectly.

Either way, ensure the cdl motor and the transfer case are in the same state during reassembly.

My suggestion, if you can't lock it currently, is take it apart unlocked ... Fix it... Then when you put it back in, do the whole "tire kick while manually moving xfer case gear with your finger trick" to get the truck in locked position, then plug the cdl motor in electronically, and with it just hanging off the wires trigger cdl on with the dash button (truck on ign, not running) to get the locker motor locked as well. Then put it together. Good luck!

 

[Chalky]

Thanks for the advice. Will take care on reassembly.

 

[TomOsborne]

Love this thread. I'm gonna need it.

 

[Chalky]

well a quick up date.

I have been having a very hard shift (you know a real jump between gears and especially when going from forward to reverse or reverse to forward). The experts told me it was a valve body issue. Either a sticking value or sensor issue. So gear box apart for service at the local do it all Pakistani run gearbox team.
After all tests on the stripped gearbox , nothing wrong! It turns our to be the torque convertor/clutch. It spins freely and then really bites hard all of a sudden. It also seems to lock up when manually turning using the gearbox drive shaft which was out because of the gearbox strip down. So hopefully that issue will be fixed.

The point is that they dropped the central diff so I was able to get access to the CDL motor. I cracked the bolts that hold the motor here just for good measure (and retightened) but I did not want to remove it - as it would mean if I did disassemble there and there was an issue with the motor, that is where the car would be staying. So I removed the switches and tested them for proper function. The two switches (low and neutral that sit next to each other were good). The CDL indicator switch was not working. So I am on the hunt for that. Trying to get one before they reassemble the gearbox and re-install the CD. They did find two in their spares boxes but both of these were also faulty.

Off to breakers yards today.

The visual inspection of the motor looked ok. The breather pipe had been attached and I am hoping that it has just been an electrical issue. I did mange to get under the car and clean up the connector pins which weren't too bad but had seen better days. I will try to test the actual motor today. To see what is happening.

 

[Chalky]

bad news the gearbox issue of hard shift still evident. Now the car is off to the electrician for computer diagnosis and if necessary pin by pin checking of wiring between the Computer (ECU) and the gearbox. Now suspecting that the computer is failing to get and/or pass signals the the valve body servers. hell this might turn out to be electrical (dollars and smoke come to mind)!!!

So CDL issue on hold.

 

[asutherland]

Chalky, what year and model is your cruiser? If it's electronically controlled it should have shift solenoids which can be easily replaced. I have a thread on here about them too lol.

 

[Chalky]

Hi,
mine is a series 100 4.7 V8, I believe 1998 year of manufacture but VIN points to 1999.
It is a flood damaged USA version (5 speed box) which was sent to Dubai partly resuscitated and now having life surgery with me.

It has a recon box so I am hoping that the issue is computer control of the solenoids rather than the solenoids themselves.

I will how ever read the thread as it will prepare me. I hope it is not the solenoids as the gearbox being US made parts here will not be easy I suspect.

cheers for the tip off.

Chakly

 

[asutherland]

No problem! If you end up needing to purchase new oem parts, talk to @Akella

 

[Chalky]

OK Asutherland.

 

[Mrtwooooo]

I'm having CDL issues now and I'm trying to diagnose the problem. I want to test the actuator on the center diff. Which pins do I need to supply 12v to and which pin is the ground so I can see if the motor wants to work that way.

 

[Tools R Us]

I'm having CDL issues now and I'm trying to diagnose the problem. I want to test the actuator on the center diff. Which pins do I need to supply 12v to and which pin is the ground so I can see if the motor wants to work that way.

Understanding how the system works is helpful when working on them, some info here, starting with post #45.

CDL Actuator Fun

Yes, it's grey and has two plugs. I believe it is C 2 on the electical diagram, when I jump it the CDL lights and ABS lights stay on. Some have had luck with pulling that switch and exercising it, pushing the ball on the end in multiple times. It's easy to test it when it's out, the contacts...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Mrtwooooo]

I haven't taken anything part more than messing with the CDL relay behind the kick panel and could not get the CDL to do anything. Drove the cruiser to work which is about 30 miles and when I got to work the CDL worked fine. I cycled it on and off maybe 20 times. When I left work I tested it again and it didn't work. Got home after the 30 mile drive and it worked fine. Seems like it only wants to work when things are good and warm. Any idea what would cause it to not work when the T-case is cold?

 

[rolliges]

^^^ old grease in the actuator motor, needs some warmth??? ^^^

 

[Tools R Us]

The most common failure has been the ground circuit, often the position switch, in the actuator. Sometimes this can be resolved by repeatedly running it, other times it needs to come apart and be cleaned/lubed. Second is connector/harness poor connection problems, far more common on the early trucks than OBD2.