Castor correction bushings issues (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

J79

Joined
May 13, 2023
Threads
2
Messages
3
Location
Dubai
I recently installed caster correction bushings on my vehicle, which has a 2-inch lift, and I’m noticing that the RHS drag link is now touching the radius arm. Both sides’ bushings were installed in the same orientation, so I’m struggling to figure out why this is happening.
Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Could this be a sign of an underlying problem, or is it related to the suspension geometry with the lift? Any advice or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Pictures are attached for reference.

IMG_0102.jpeg


IMG_0103.jpeg


IMG_0201.png
 
I have a 4" lift on my J76, but I have castor correcting swing arms, not bushings. I have about an inch of clearance between the drag link and the swing arm.

Do you know what size lift the castor correcting bushings were made for? It is possible that they are designed for more lift than 2"? How does it drive? That would be my litmus test.

Either way, that should still be enough clearance as the swing arms move with the axle. :cheers:
 
I recently installed caster correction bushings on my vehicle, which has a 2-inch lift, and I’m noticing that the RHS drag link is now touching the radius arm. Both sides’ bushings were installed in the same orientation, so I’m struggling to figure out why this is happening.
Has anyone else dealt with this issue before? Could this be a sign of an underlying problem, or is it related to the suspension geometry with the lift? Any advice or troubleshooting tips would be greatly appreciated. Pictures are attached for reference.

View attachment 3827039

View attachment 3827041

View attachment 3827045
This is very common in the 80 series world and most move away from caster bushings.
Some have ( including me ) ground off the casting marks on the arms in the affected area. Just be careful not to take too much.
It’s 100% due to the bushings moving the axle making the tie rod closer to the arms.
 
Last edited:
You could also try just removing the rear bushings and run the OEM bushings. It would probably be enough for you 2” lift.
 
I didn't even think about keeping the original bushing in the rear, that's a great idea. Thanks I'll try it!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom