Caster correction Option on 4+1 lift (1 Viewer)

[Imagery]

I am ready to do something about my caster and get it back close to where it needs to be. I have Slee's 4" springs all around and 1" spacers on the front. I have an ARB Bull Bar with Warn 9.5XP and synthetic rope and fair lead. Tradesman full length with mesh floor roof rack, Kaymar rear bumper, no spare tire. Metal Tech sliders, and with a full tank of gas, today my rig weighed in at 6,020 lb. I guess the weight will become a factor by affecting the actual ride height. I also just had my caster measured and it is a -2.510 and I do have the OME caster bushings installed. Am I looking at adding somewhere around 4-5 positive caster to bring it back to within spec of +2 to +4 deg? If so, then what is going to be my best option of these three: Slee Caster bushes; Slee Caster Plates; or Slee front control arms with centered bushes?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[nakman]

Well if you options are Slee, Slee, or Slee, why not just ask Slee?

I'm going to guess control arms may "over shoot" your target desination, and castor plates may "under shoot" a little.

 

[Imagery]

Hey... Thats a good idea man! I have a couple of calls to him but we haven't been able to talk yet. I just figured why not see what some others might be able to share based on their experience. I'm still going to talk to Slee and ultimately make a decision based on his reccomendation. Just wanted to have a better understanding of the pros and cons of each option.

 

[Imagery]

Well if you options are Slee, Slee, or Slee, why not just ask Slee?

I'm going to guess control arms may "over shoot" your target desination, and castor plates may "under shoot" a little.

What about the arms with caster corrective bushings to add a few deg of negative caster? If that would work, then I will be set for later if I decide to run the 6" setup and larger tires. I need to first re-gear from current stock to 456 or 488's.

 

[landtank]

I've ordered 5 sets of my caster plates this week and will be offering them in the "merchandise storefront" area in a few weeks.

So it's no longer Slee, Slee, or Slee

 

[alkaline747trio]

I personally hate Slee's plates, they are a great design, but too many short coming for me. I'd get new control arms. Arms re-locate the axle forward where it should be, give you plenty of caster (bigger tires like a little more caster), and most cases will get you out of having to buy a new driveshaft. If you really want to go with plates, go with the LandTank design, he put a little more engineering into it (not saying Slee didn't, but landtank was 150% anal about his plates) and solved a few more problems than Slee's, and gives you more options than Slee's.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Caster plates are and always will be a compromise cater correction solutions. However there is one big difference between Rick's plate and ours. I am not knocking his, but ours are no-drilling and easily reversible. Ricks is not eazily reversible since some of the holes you drill overlap the old holes. Can be done though.

That said, I am glad that Rick is now producing his. That way people have choices. I like his design and the concept behind them, we just have a tough time selling stuff where people have to drill holes. You might not think it is a big deal, but you will be amazed for how many people that is huge.

One of the big reasons we redid our arms is to allow caster bushings in them so you can run them with a 4" lift. You just dial some caster out.

 

[Imagery]

Well, I just spoke with Ben at Slee Offroad and went ahead and ordered new control arms. Since I am sitting at -2.5 deg caster with the OME correction bushings installed, the new arms should work out fine by themselves without correction bushes. Now I have to wait a couple of weeks for more to be ready to ship.

 

[shanegtr]

Caster plates are and always will be a compromise cater correction solutions. However there is one big difference between Rick's plate and ours. I am not knocking his, but ours are no-drilling and easily reversible. Ricks is not eazily reversible since some of the holes you drill overlap the old holes. Can be done though.

Nothing that the right size washers and a welder cant fix;p

 

[landtank]

Ricks is not eazily reversible since some of the holes you drill overlap the old holes.

Actually Christo they are really easy to reverse. You simply cut the ends off the middle section and then rotate them 180* so the moon shaped stub now fills the drilled hole and you reclaim the original hole you started with.

And at this point the bolts will still hold everything together without welding.