caster correction in degrees?

[landtank]

I'm working on finalizing my suspension and can't remember if I've read how much correction in degrees is needed for a truck running 850Js. I realise that each truck is different but since Christo offers plates there must be a number that works well for everyone despite the differences.

I've got an ARB and a winch on the floor with a Kaymar in the rear.

 

[cruiserdan]

2 to 4 is spec, 3 being buff.

I have J's and a winch with OME correction and I am about 1.5 or so. OME corrects about 2.5 degrees, give or take. Get it on the rack and do a caster sweep and see where it's at now.

I was about neg 1.5 with packed 850's (about the same as unpacked 850J's) with no correction applied.

 

[Montana Cruiser]

I've got an ARB and a winch on the floor with a Kaymar in the rear.

Your winch is about a 1/3 the weight of the electrics right? Assuming this is going to change what correction you need from others running an ARB and electric as you'll have less weight up there?

 

[landtank]

The issue Dan is that I have the CC bushings in there right now. I'd like to do something where I could go back to the OEM bushings. So putting it on the rack as it sits won't help and I'd like to have something in place prior to the spring swap and bushing swap so the truck won't be down for an extended period of time.

So for now a target of 5 Degs of correction would be a good start.

 

[cruiserdan]

OK,

Based on mine I would say that is about right. That should get you about 3.5 degrees or so with stock bushings.

By the time you get your winch on there your front axle load will be about the same as mine and J's with no packers is where I am now.

 

[landtank]

excellent, I had plenty of time to think out what I'd like to sdo on the drive home from Jersey today. Now to draw up the axle in CAD and see what I can do or not do.

 

[Kazmanff]

LT, I have J's with 1" Mr.G's, and a stock bumper at the moment. I have the stock bushings with Slee CC Plates and my current status is +3.5 degrees of caster. With just the OME CC bushings I was at -0.7 degrees. Not sure if that will help or just confuse you more.

 

[alia176]

I have 850Js with ARB bumper plus winch with a caster of 3 deg positive. This is a good number to aim for. I have adjustable caster and have tried anywhere from 6 deg pos to 3 deg pos. I like 3 deg pos the best. YMMV.

Ali

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

We always aim for 3.5- 5 deg of castor, and a good hydraulic steering damper, makes them drive nice, even with 6" of lift.

 

[landtank]

Thanks guys, I know the target, what I'm looking for is how many degrees it takes to get there.


I was hoping that somebody had taken measurements prior to installing correction with a similar setup so they could give me their amount of needed to correct.

 

[ParadiseCruiser]

Rick -

Another set of data points, with a set-up similar to your truck...

I'm running OME 850/863 with 20mm packers on each front corner (for leveling purposes), ARB with Warn 12K & dual batteries. On the rear, a Kaymar with a single swing gate w/tire (a second gate to be added...), and OEM subtank (I estimate this to add approx 125 lbs, full).

My caster with OEM bushings (& 31" tires) measures -2.20 +/- 0.05 deg, as described, with no additional cargo weight on board except a tool box... more of a negative caster than you might expect for this lift. The only explanation I can think of for the excess is that the caster was off to begin with for some reason (unfortunately, no 'before-and-after' measurements available).

I spoke with Christo about the caster correction plates, and he said that measurements on various trucks netted an apprx average of 4 deg of caster correction (I suspect you are already aware of this). Seems like the best approach while still using OEM bushings.

Just a few thots...

Cheers, R -

 

[landtank]

Thanks for the help everyone. I got the CAD work done last night and the plates are designed. Making them is another story. I'm going to cut some from cardboard this week to check fitment and then move onto a steel one for checking any interferance issues.

I went with 6 degrees of correction because it worked out a little better in the design. If it works, it won't require any grinding or welding to install. Of course it looks to be a milled plate verses a fabbed one so that will drive up the cost considerably.

 

[T Y L E R]

There are a lot of guys on here raising the bar to personal mods .. by means of designing and some even fashioning the mods themselves . Cool stuff ..



TY