Cargo Area Aftermarket Sound Deadener (Kilmat, Noico, Dynamat, etc) (2 Viewers)

[jLB]

After our most recent tropical storm, we discovered that we've got a leak in the rear cargo area (3rd brake light, rear windows trim, or rear sunroof drains) of our old LX.

I've stripped the rear cargo area to clean up, dry out, and identify the source of the leak.

I see a fair bit of OE sound deadening in the cargo area, and I'm wondering if "deadening" the cargo area is worth the cost/effort, while I've already got the rear stripped.

I've seen a number of threads with people installing Dynamat/Noico/Kilmat in their interior. Of those that have done this, in retrospect, was it a significant enough difference to justify the cost/effort?

I've also seen a couple of threads elsewhere, cursing the (previous owner) a$$hole that installed the "nasty" sound deadener, and describing the pain of removing it with a torch. Of those that have done this kind of install, any regrets?

 

[hickuptruck]

I did a one stage sound deaden with noico. Not worth it. The 100 has plenty of sound deading bitumen already and sound deadening even at 25% coverage is a waste of time and money

I'm planning to rip out the entire entire and do proper 3 stage during the holidays with mlv, ccf, and butyl, the proper way

Only way I'd say it is worth it is if you continue to strip out the entire entire and do 3 stage. However, the mlv which you need 100% coverage with no seams is going to pricey. Can't do 3 stage to just the back portion of it.

 

[ouzo12]

I did a one stage sound deaden with noico. Not worth it. The 100 has plenty of sound deading bitumen already and sound deadening even at 25% coverage is a waste of time and money

I'm planning to rip out the entire entire and do proper 3 stage during the holidays with mlv, ccf, and butyl, the proper way

Only way I'd say it is worth it is if you continue to strip out the entire entire and do 3 stage. However, the mlv which you need 100% coverage with no seams is going to pricey. Can't do 3 stage to just the back portion of it.

Glad this up today. In a separate post, I outlined my fall project of cleaning out the interior and adding some deadening. There are a lot of different view points on how to proceed but it does sound like the MLV route is the way to go, unfortunately just on the expensive side.

Do you think this route would be effective? I would be taking out the cargo area, seating area and door panels. Also not sure if the vapor barrier would mess anything.

Amazon product ASIN B00URUIKAK
Amazon product ASIN B07D5VTMXG

 

[willbt]

I did my cargo area a few years ago and have zero regrets, in fact I was amazed at how much road noise it eliminated. I would at a minimum do the wheel arches to get rid of the wind and road noise from the tires.

I have another box of deadener in my garage and I've been meaning to do the front area, but just haven't had a chance to get around to removing my seats.

I used the Noico 80mm. An 80 series guy in town gave me two boxes for free. It's great stuff. Just take the time to use a roller and do it when it's warmer out so it sticks well.

 

[xXsnowXx]

I did my cargo area a few years ago and have zero regrets, in fact I was amazed at how much road noise it eliminated. I would at a minimum do the wheel arches to get rid of the wind and road noise from the tires.

I have another box of deadener in my garage and I've been meaning to do the front area, but just haven't had a chance to get around to removing my seats.

I used the Noico 80mm. An 80 series guy in town gave me two boxes for free. It's great stuff. Just take the time to use a roller and do it when it's warmer out so it sticks well.

View attachment 2453264
View attachment 2453265

I'm sure I can find it by searching, but doesn't seem like a bad place to ask: roughly how many square feet are needed to do an entire Land Cruiser?

 

[hoser]

I recently laid down Noico butyl in my 70 series (along with some other products). But then I saw this thread regarding pulling up old Noico butyl sound deadening... and I considered pulling it all up before it gets to become a sticky mess. @Coxxy

 

[gregnash]

I ended up buying NVX stuff from Amazon when I did my front speaker replacement as there were a couple of CarAV threads that highly recommended it over on Reddit. Pretty cheap, went on easy and STUCK to the doors. I just did speaker coverage for the door and the 4ft pack is more than enough for that. Eventually I will do more down the road but it was good for what it was. KilMat was not recommended as it apparently had a very high butyl smell to it and didn't seem to last.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I noticed a subtle difference in my 99 when I did the "3 stage" Sundown Sound Deadener approach in all but the doors. It was a TON of work and not enjoyable. It was also expensive.

My 06LX is quieter in stock form than the 99 was after all that work (not doing doors might be the big difference).

I have all the materials to do the same 3 layer approach on my Supra project car and most the LX if I wanted. I will not be doing that. I'll be buying pre-made multilayer stuff (SoundSkin or similar) and selling the other materials.

 

[Zer0zg]

I just put some Killmat in small areas of the rear that sounded tinny when i knocked on them ( outer edge of fenderwells, exterior skin) . Not sure if it made a huge difference, but pretty easy to do while I was in there for wiring.

 

[brauski]

If you've got it ripped apart, I'd say go for it. I did 3 stage using B-Quiet materials on the entire interior below the windows. It seems almost as loud to me, but I do notice that I hear like zero engine or road noise anymore - wind noise is it (roof rack and a poorly installed windshield by the PO isn't helping). I think it knocked off about 3 dBs, can't remember the exact numbers I got, but they were less than I was hoping for.

Until recently I left the rear carpet area of the cargo area with just 1 stage and I could definitely hear that most of the noise was leaking in from that area. Kinda like having surround sound. lol

Do your research though. Big thing is for stage 1, you don't need full coverage. Only about 35% is required - past that does nothing for acoustics. That layer only keeps that panel from vibrating. Using extra just weighs and costs more. I don't remember if you have an LC or LX and I'm too lazy to scroll up, but in my research there are noticable differences in the amounts of stage 1 applied from the factory. Most of these LXs (like mine) probably don't need any additional stage 1 on the floor. Doors/wheel wells make the biggest difference.

That being said, I still elected to do full coverage in my rig because I had the material, and I'm going for some thermal benefits living down here in MS (I even taped the seems). It seems to be working. Before I did the 1 stage under the center console area the bottom of my cup holders used to get pretty hot - like to the point I started monitering my trans temp cause it was worrying me. But since just putting down the stage 1 stuff, it doesn't heat up any more. And that's pretty neat.

And if you take your time and do it right, I doubt anyone's going to want to remove it later down the road. Those kind of people should be buying Jeeps anyways. haha

 

[Njck22]

Don’t put those buytl tiles anywhere you will ever need to remove them. Dry ice might remove them but never seen it done.
Only difference I notice is when I’m slinging mud off my tires it doesn’t make as much of a high frequency “donk” sound. Little deeper now. Sound deadener is just that- deadener, not reducer. If your cruiser is loud you need full treatment, not just one single stage.