Sound deadening questions 2005 (1 Viewer)

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Read quite a few previous posts, but having trouble with a couple specific questions. I pulled the cargo area rug and am ready to slap down the NVX SDBP I purchased.

1. In the cargo area, do I need to cut out pieces of the NVX as to not cover drains or drain channels? In photos it looks like most people just cover everything, but I’ve seen some comments caution against that.

2. Do I need to remove the insulation pad that’s glued to the back of my carpet or can i just keep it on there? The NVX will add a bit of height, I’m wondering if it will make reinstalling the carpet harder.

Thanks!
 
Do you ever intend to access and remove those drain plugs to let them do their intended job? Some get dirty and hose out regularly. That has to be small minority.

If you are not talking about the closed cell foam that is like a cm thick, don’t worry about it. It may make it a little more challenging but that padding does a job of killing sound. So it is your friend.
 
Do you ever intend to access and remove those drain plugs to let them do their intended job? Some get dirty and hose out regularly. That has to be small minority.

If you are not talking about the closed cell foam that is like a cm thick, don’t worry about it. It may make it a little more challenging but that padding does a job of killing sound. So it is your friend.
Thanks for the response. I’ve never used the drain channels nor do I plan to. Sounds like slapping it on there is the way to go.

The sound deadening is 2.33 mm thick, I believe it’s a bit more than typical. I mean, I’ll know the answer soon enough, regardless! If it doesn’t fit….I’ll just scrape it off the carpet.
 
Depending on how thick the added sound deadening is, you may have to adjust the trim pieces. Ask me how I know.

dynamat-land-cruiser-jpg.718809
 
I am in the midst of doing something similar to mine, and am considering doing the back cargo area over break to chase down a couple rattles. In addition to CLD, I have a bunch of the thick thinsulite sound absorbing material. Before I go putting that behind the rear panels, do you have a sense of if that area gets wet from the quarter windows or anything else?

Or more specifically - is there a strong reason to wrap a sound absorbing material in plastic to avoid water?
 
IMHO, while you’re in there, do it right. Make sure drains are clear and can be cleaned. You never know what the future holds for you and or your truck. As mentioned, thin material will not be too hard to install. Add a couple layers or something thick, and it can be more challenging. Don’t remove the factory jute material. If anything , add where you can and it will be an improvement. Personally in my lx, I have not found the need to do this.

Have you also looked into the additional body seals that an lx has, which cuts down on a lot of wind noise?
 
Depending on how thick the added sound deadening is, you may have to adjust the trim pieces. Ask me how I know.

dynamat-land-cruiser-jpg.718809
It’s 2.33mm thick. Tell me more! Did you cut out the drain plugs/channels? Would be great to hear a few tips/learnings, if you have them?
 
IMHO, while you’re in there, do it right. Make sure drains are clear and can be cleaned. You never know what the future holds for you and or your truck. As mentioned, thin material will not be too hard to install. Add a couple layers or something thick, and it can be more challenging. Don’t remove the factory jute material. If anything , add where you can and it will be an improvement. Personally in my lx, I have not found the need to do this.

Have you also looked into the additional body seals that an lx has, which cuts down on a lot of wind noise?
I’m going to leave the jute (thanks, learned a new word today) and see what happens. Ideally, it stays, but tbd. Could you expand on your last paragraph? Not sure what body seals you’re referring to. Mine is a Toyota, but probably the same as your lx
 
I am in the midst of doing something similar to mine, and am considering doing the back cargo area over break to chase down a couple rattles. In addition to CLD, I have a bunch of the thick thinsulite sound absorbing material. Before I go putting that behind the rear panels, do you have a sense of if that area gets wet from the quarter windows or anything else?

Or more specifically - is there a strong reason to wrap a sound absorbing material in plastic to avoid water?
Responding but I’m not the right guy to answer. I am planning to take off the rear cargo side panels / rear hatch this weekend. TBD!
 
IMHO, while you’re in there, do it right. Make sure drains are clear and can be cleaned. You never know what the future holds for you and or your truck. As mentioned, thin material will not be too hard to install. Add a couple layers or something thick, and it can be more challenging. Don’t remove the factory jute material. If anything , add where you can and it will be an improvement. Personally in my lx, I have not found the need to do this.

Have you also looked into the additional body seals that an lx has, which cuts down on a lot of wind noise?

^ Agree. @2005BlackBeauty on my LC I covered the wheel wheels with a double layer simply because of the round shape. If I were to do it again, I'd simply cut or shape the material so it's only one layer. Also, cut holes in the material around the clips and drain plugs and everything should fit fine. Last, you also don't have to fully cover every area to significantly reduce the noise. Wheel wells are certainly a problem area, but you'll notice once you get in there even in the LCs that had places that were covered with sound deadening by the factory. Do the inner skin of the sides, but be strategic in covering the floor. 2 cents for what its worth.
 
^ Agree. @2005BlackBeauty on my LC I covered the wheel wheels with a double layer simply because of the round shape. If I were to do it again, I'd simply cut or shape the material so it's only one layer. Also, cut holes in the material around the clips and drain plugs and everything should fit fine. Last, you also don't have to fully cover every area to significantly reduce the noise. Wheel wells are certainly a problem area, but you'll notice once you get in there even in the LCs that had places that were covered with sound deadening by the factory. Do the inner skin of the sides, but be strategic in covering the floor. 2 cents for what its worth.
Appreciate the tips! Did you cut out the channel drains on just the drain plugs themselves? Noted about the side panels
 
I have been debating way too many sound deadening options recently - what appears to be “best” as of right now is the super expensive stuff from Resonix. That is too rich for the very back of my vehicle… Interested to hear how the NVX adheres, since that and the Harmony Audio seem to be good value for their overall effectiveness. I had put some of the Amazon basics stuff in my front doors earlier in the year, and it’s not looking like it’s really adhered super well after tugging at a corner.

The other option with a good ratio of price per quality, at 3mm thick:
SOUND DEADENING MATERIAL VIBROFILTR 3.0 MM (118 MIL) 28.2 SQ FT NOISE INSULATION & DAMPENING - https://www.vibrofiltr.com/products/sound-deadening-material-vibrofiltr-3-0-mm-118-mil-28-2-sq-ft-noise-insulation-dampening
 
I have been debating way too many sound deadening options recently - what appears to be “best” as of right now is the super expensive stuff from Resonix. That is too rich for the very back of my vehicle… Interested to hear how the NVX adheres, since that and the Harmony Audio seem to be good value for their overall effectiveness. I had put some of the Amazon basics stuff in my front doors earlier in the year, and it’s not looking like it’s really adhered super well after tugging at a corner.

The other option with a good ratio of price per quality, at 3mm thick:
SOUND DEADENING MATERIAL VIBROFILTR 3.0 MM (118 MIL) 28.2 SQ FT NOISE INSULATION & DAMPENING - https://www.vibrofiltr.com/products/sound-deadening-material-vibrofiltr-3-0-mm-118-mil-28-2-sq-ft-noise-insulation-dampening
I’ll let you know! My Reddit sleuthing is what brought me to NVX. For the price-quality ratio, many installers were recommending it.
 
I did a triple layer on all 5 doors (including tailgate) and rear cargo area. I also lined the inside of the plastic panels. I did triple layer as the foil is only good for heat, the butyl is only for for vibration, and foam is what actually helps for noise.

Where possible, cut out for drain holes or anything else you'll want to access for maintenance. I found a kit of leather hole punch tools that make a nice clean circle. For doors, I made a template out of plastic sheet, circled everything I wanted to cut out, and laid the template over my material to transfer the data. The doors are simply reversed from side to side, so one template for the front and one for the rear will do you.

Also where possible, do the outer sheet metal skin, which would face the interior of the car. Especially if you're doing the doors, don't just do the surface that the door panel affixes to. Do the skin inside the cavity where the window rolls down in to. This is a pain in the ass, but mostly a pain in the wrists to reach inside the sheet metal.

I still need to do the floors in mine, but the work so far is noticeable. Tall Kyle @MechE30 and I were broad-sided by a deer in my truck and hardly even heard/ felt it. 🤣
 
What foam are you referring to? From what I understand, closed cell foam doesn’t do anything for noise reduction, just keeps panels from vibrating against each other.
 
There are so many advertising gimmicks in the sound deadening material world - I don’t quite understand what they mean by “acoustic foam”. It certainly looks different than the cheap closed cell foam some companies are selling. Can confirm that door treatment makes everything feel better!
 

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