Carburetor removal nightmare..help (1 Viewer)

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jestlurnin

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Ok so I probably didn't give it my best shot last night as it had been a long day but what in the heck kind of tool would be best to get the 4 bolts off that hold the carburetor on? I tried a stubby 12mm wrench and a regular 12mm wrench and barely got anywhere on any of the bolts.

Any and all suggestions are welcome as I will be trying this again tonight.:cheers:
 
I have a box wrench cut in half. have to use both sides of it- and flip the wrench over- to get to all the angles. maybe have to use a larger wrench to drive the smaller wrenches to get the nuts loose/tight...HTH. Oh, take the air rail off too, that'll give you some more room
 
sometimes pulling the valve cover get's you more wrench space too.

I use a small 12mm wrench, little at a time on the bolts.
 
Make sure to spray them with a little PB blaster or something because if they are a little rusty and you get on there and strip them out it will really become a nightmare to get them off. If your having trouble try a wobble socket and an extension to try and get in there that worked for me! Just my 0.02! Good luck.
 
I think I used something like this, but if the bolts are rusty it's going to be tough.
KDT9556.jpg
 
I use a stubby 12mm, but I've had the carb of numerous times, and in the past I have changed both the studs and the nuts, so once they are loose they spin off pretty easily. The bolts next to the valve cover are the hardest. I stand on my bumper and lay down on top of the valve cover (with a mat between me and the cover), then try and make yourself comfortable and you fidget with the nuts.
 
Crows foot.
 
Cursing at 1 am right next to your neighbor's bedroom window, helps too.
 
Thanks for all the replies and suggestions guys.

That thing didn't stand a chance after I got a good nights sleep and thought about it all day!! Got the bad boy off in about 30min.

New problem!!!! I mangled/stripped a couple nuts on my air rail and. I soaked the nuts in PB blaster for 2 solid days and still managed to strip the darn things. Maybe I should have not absolutely cranked on them as hard as I could.:doh:

Anyone in the Portland Oregon area that has an extra air rail that they could part with? :cheers:
 
or take a long 12 mm with tourch, heat it up, bend the box end, then bend the open end to look what resembles a s shape and there you have it. I still have that one wrench from 15 years ago.
 
+1 on this. I have had the same custom bent wrench for yrs. Start with a cheap quality wrech...put it in the vice and bend away.
or take a long 12 mm with tourch, heat it up, bend the box end, then bend the open end to look what resembles a s shape and there you have it. I still have that one wrench from 15 years ago.
 
Would one of you mind posting a picture of this custom tool that you made?:cheers:
 
or take a long 12 mm with tourch, heat it up, bend the box end, then bend the open end to look what resembles a s shape and there you have it. I still have that one wrench from 15 years ago.

Does the box end fit in the tight space? Meaning, is it possible to slip it over the nut in order to engage?
 
I just bent a 12mm cheapie wrench in half - 90 degree bend in the middle. Not perfect, but gets the job done on my 40 and did on my 60.
 
I have used a snap on distributor wrench to get to the hard to reach nut, it's bent into a certain shape.
 
Can someone post up pictures of these tools. I just put a rebuilt carb on my 60 and would welcome anything easier than what I currently use.
 
As stated, a 12mm Distributor Wrench works very well. I also bent mine about 40 degrees, in the middle, to clear the Air Injection tube. Really helps get at those two valve-cover side bolts.

Don't need to get a snap on ($$$) just find a generic one... They're on ebay, amazone, etc. Box end (12 pt) is best.

s-l300.jpg
 
I just cut a standard 12mm combo wrench in half and rounded off the sharp edge where I cut it so it wouldn't hurt my thumb. You can turn it plenty tight, and I wouldn't want to turn it any tighter. Fits right in there.
 
I snapped the box end off of a small 12 and added a silicone cap for a grip to the remaining end of the closed side. It's about 5" long but I've thought about cutting another 1" off. Works pretty good. Someone told me the other day if it's a craftsman you can get it warrentied too, just leave it unfiled. :)

image.jpg
 

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