Carborator Question w/Chevy Long Block Engine

[tifgirl]

Hi there the title should say Radiator Question... Anyhoo, I am working on a restore of my PIG and have run into a technical question/problem that I hope someone else has encountered. I need a new radiator (engine was just rebuilt). Currently, their is a 1966 - 67 Buick Skylark radiator in it MOD - 433347. Id like to ramp up the cooling, but need a similar match up space wise. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[Pin_Head]

Skylark was a small car that typically had a V6 in it. This might be a little puny for a V8, depending on which size. The larger the displacement, the larger the radiator you will need.

Long block is a generic term that describes the engine assembly with the block and head.

Big block is a term that means 396/427/454 cubic inch Chevy engines.

Small block Chevy engines are in the 265/283/302/305/327/350/383/400 cubic inch series.

 

[Downey]

Rule of thumb is that a 4 cyl. needs 25 gpm of water flow, a 6 cyl. needs 35 gpm, and a V8 needs 45 gpm. The other rule of thumb (and argument between manufacturers of copper rads vs aluminum rads) is that aluminum rads cool better than copper. The copper rad guy says alum. cools 10% better, the alum. rad guy says alum. cools 40% better, lets split the difference at 25%. And I will always argue that fan choice makes as much or more difference than radiator.

 

[inkpot]

Howdy! Search for assorted phrases and you will find tons of discussion on this topic. You can also post up to the FJ 55 list on the Iron Pig Preservation Society at the bottom of the forums page. My solution to running a stock 350 in my Piggy is a combination of several things. Other folks have had success with other methods. I am using my original 4 core stock radiator. I had the core replaced with a high density unit, at 14 fins per inch. The old one was about 8. I had the lower hose fitting moved from the back of the tank to the bottom, with a 90 degree turn on it. This allows me to run a 19" fan, due to engine/radiator placement. I am using a FlowCooler water pump that puts out 30% extra water. I also am running "truck" pulleys. The water pump pulley is smaller, and the crank pulley is bigger that stock auto style, so it runs about 30% faster. Also spins the alternator about 15% faster. So far I do not need to build a shroud, but I have thought about it. I can go play in the desert at 115 degrees out, and the engine never gets over 180 degrees. Your results may vary!?! John

 

[tifgirl]

Thanks folks. I am a newbie to the whole restore thing and really to the whole engine thing. Was brought up around cars, but was never allowed to get my hands in them. After shelling out some serious dough it looks like I am finally going to get that chance. Seems like Inkpot and Downey have some good suggestions. Thanks for the support. Oh I believe it is a LBC 350 that I am gonna have to confirm though.