carb problems

[arcpres]

Po of the 55 had a carb rebuild kit that he gave me along with a few other goodies (2 alternators and a spare starter too). Anyway, took it all apart, got it back together and made 2 discoveries.
1- missing the stop lever throttle arm (has been running without it). Any ideas on where I can find one?

2- after install I can get it to start, but any timeni hit the accelerator it dies. Any amount of accelerator it dies... tried the idle adjuster and the mix adjuster screw and no improvement either way. Any suggestions?

It is an Aisan 2 barell on an f engine 1972 fj55. This was my first carb experience. Seemed to be going well...

 

[Pin_Head]

1. I don't know what a stop lever throttle arm is.

2. It may be lean off idle due to bad/inoperable idle fuel solenoid or a plugged idle port. What happens when you adjust the idle speed screw in the carb base to speed up the idle? Did you check if the accelerator pump is squirting fuel? Did you check for manifold vacuum leaks?

 

[JohnnyC]

1. Mark aka marks offroad give him a call for the part

2. With the truck not running... If you open the throttle... Does it squirt gas?

 

[arcpres]

Well, that leads to a couple more oddities... the idle solenoid has been cut (again, working without it since I got it, I guess). Figured he had it bypassed somehow.

I was reading the name out of a book, has different names throughout the section... high speed valve stop lever is what it says somewhere else.

I sprayed carb cleaner around base, no affect on rpm.

When inadjust the idle mixture it does speed up or slow down abit, but no affect on the pressing accelerator. Stalls at same point.

Yes, gas does come in when the pump arm goes in.

 

[arcpres]

Also, when I tried to test drive, I could push in accelerator and let out quickly, then repeat and the car would go, but I would jump after it was moving. Accelerator in same position it heaves forward then lets up then heaves again, and so on... dont know if that tells you anything

 

[Pin_Head]

It is possible that someone cut the tip off of the idle fuel shut off solenoid. Take it out and take a peek.

You need to check for all possible vacuum leaks, not just around the carb base.

I said the idle speed screw, not the idle mixture. The speed screw is on the firewall side down low in the carb base. It is hard to see.

 

[arcpres]

Tip is still on it. Just the wire is cut. I adjusted that screw too and I didnt notice an effect, either way I turned it.

I did see last night on a string from 2005 that someone posted that the part I am miasing isnt needed. It was only installed on the bbl model engine

Not sure how else to check for vacuum leaks, open to ideas.

Thanks for your help

 

[77mustard40]

Found that my leak was between the manifold and the cylinder head. Spray carb cleaner along the top and bottom of the manifold where it bolts to the head. Also along the bottom of the manifold looking for a crack in the manifold.

 

[Pin_Head]

If the idle speed screw has no effect, maybe the main jet/nozzle is plugged or restricted. By turning it in, you should reach a point where it is running off of the main jet. There are two other screws on that side that mount to the linkage and they are not the idle speed screw. The idle speed screw is in the cast iron base.

You can also use propane gas to find the vacuum leak. Put a hose on the end of a propane torch to get under the manifold and other hard to reach places.

 

[arcpres]

Im going to start from scratch and take it all apart again. I found a youtube video (I think yours) that will walk me through it. Doing that now

 

[Pin_Head]

It would probably be best to rule out manifold vacuum leaks first as this is a common problem.

 

[arcpres]

Just flung the ap check ball spring somewhere in garage. Wonderful

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Tip is still on it. Just the wire is cut. I adjusted that screw too and I didnt notice an effect, either way I turned it.

Are you saying that the wire to the idle solenoid is cut? If so, that would make the idle mixture screw do nothing. Plus you'd need to have the idle speed screw in so far that it's running off the primary. And then when you go off idle, it'd be lean due to lack of fuel from the idle circuit..that would explain almost everything.

 

[Pin_Head]

Just flung the ap check ball spring somewhere in garage. Wonderful

Drag a magnet around and you will ultimately find it after you have moved everything on the floor.

 

[arcpres]

Still searchin...
Yes. The solenoid has a cut wire. The ground wire is fine. So, is there a solution? Can i connect it somewhere?

 

[Pin_Head]

There is no ground wire for the solenoid until 1979. Before that it is grounded through the case and its contact with the carb. You can connect it to any switched (key on) power, preferably the Ign wire to the voltage regulator under the brake booster. In 72, it was connected to the + lug of the ignition coil, but this is a bad idea that was corrected later. If the solenoid wire shorts out, it takes out the ignition and you lose power while driving.

 

[sggoat]

The big accel pump spring is pretty easy to find a replacement(don't know about the "spring constants", etc., for this, but you could get a reasonable facimile from Grainger,etc).
If it is the little ball check retainer clip----now that's another story. Toyota still has a small stock of these for 75-78 year carbs-just be prepared to wait several weeks for delivery(they are only ~$5)

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Still searchin...
Yes. The solenoid has a cut wire. The ground wire is fine. So, is there a solution? Can i connect it somewhere?

Can you post a picture of this solenoid wiring? Something seems off. As Pin_Head said, only the later model solenoids have two wires. Earliers use one wire and the body as ground.

 

[arcpres]

I attached pic of solenoid. It is the retaining clip, not the pump spring

 

[edwjmcgrath]

Yep, this is definitely an earlier setup and has two wires. On the parts diagram that is called Valve Sub Assy, Slow but it's the same thing. I believe that wire was originally connected to the coil positive terminal, but the IG terminal of the voltage regulator is rumored to be a safer place. Here's a thread on early solenoid wiring.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/293192-early-idle-solenoid-oem-wiring.html