Carb cooling fan system in one diagram?

[caladin]

Is there a diagram anywhere or a series of photos that show the carb cooling fan system either in its entirety or piece by piece in situ?

I think I know what the 3 main pieces are the temp sensor, the fan, and the relay box, and roughly where they are, but I think mine is disconnected by the OP (which is dumb since it had heat issues, and it's in Texas). It never comes on at engine shut, off as my old cruiser did. I've had 2 really hard hot starts on hot days, so its going to be important for me soon.

I can't wrap my head around how all the parts are wired together. Normally when this happens I go to Megazip and find the parts diagram for that system, but It seems to be spread across several diagrams.

My normal approach is to open every link in Google and search that mentions the carb-cooling fan and try to gather all the info together,
I'm going to compile links and copy photos here, as part of my process of wrapping my head around it.,

I normally do this for myself and don't share it, but here it helps explain what I'm missing and might help others down the line.

(Edit I think I have everything figured out all here now in one place (if in a crappy order), so mostly please check to see if I've done a stupid, I"d hate to confuse the next guy because I'm a fool. Thanks, E-)

This thread has good pics of all sides of the fan assembly
Is this "carburetor cooling fan" essential for proper engine performance?? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/is-this-carburetor-cooling-fan-essential-for-proper-engine-performance.1260131/

This thread has a good photo of the temp sensor in situ. (It's a great freacking thread)
The infamous carb cooling fan - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-infamous-carb-cooling-fan.888003

Page 1 has it on a manifold (intake?) off the truck, and what I think is the plug and ground for the fan to the harness
(i'd copy the photo here, but I'm already at my max of 10 photos, so I'll put it in a reply below)


page 2 has it up from underneath the truck in 3 gradually zooming in photos (massive help)

page 3 has the wires in situ from the fan to the sensor.

<< -- I think post 2 makes more sense here

and a pic of matts reproduction of the wire from the sensor to the harness here :
(No idea if CruiserMatt still has it, I'm not that far along yet, here is his link, he's been great to me every time I've dealt with him, but some folks have complaints so YMMV , VintageTeqParts.com Home Page – VintageTEqParts.com - https://vintageteqparts.com/ )

View attachment 3635125

So I guess I just need a good idea of the wiring from the fan to the timer relay (which is on the driver's kick panel right?)

This thread has the wiring diagram, but it shows 2 relays not just one, and I have no idea where the other relay is
(see answer in post 3 the diagram with relay and computer/timer showed separately)
Carb fan.... is it working? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/carb-fan-is-it-working.801129/

here are 2 flavors of the actual "all in one" diagram I was hunting for in the top post, it's apparently from the haynes manual for the FJ 40, but I think it's good for a fj60

(which is weird because I searched the Haynes manual index in 2 versions before starting this thread, but hey I'm brain fried AF)
Link to thread

The fan relay appears controller appears to come in two colors, Looks like the black fan box is FJ60 and the grey is FJ40.
It appears to live on the passenger kick panel see the diagram in post 3 below.

I'm guessing the older one is upper right in this pic?

 

[caladin]

In a perfect world these picks would be up at the top of the first post, but i hit my max attachments limit, despite being subscribed) so these are here. If somone with powers wants to move themt o bemore logical, that'd rock.

From "freakign awesom" link at top pf post #1
The infamous carb cooling fan - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-infamous-carb-cooling-fan.888003/

Pictures of wires for fan in driver side corner of engine bay, nearest to firewall

THis is from the link below, copie dfrom a spoke strip post (i added name since I'm copying his text too)

Spike Strip Says:
At the red arrow - it's the blue wire that's spliced (badly) to the black w/red stripe. Not me, PO -- I'm in the process of fixing it.

The connector to the right is from the top of the Brake Master Cylinder, as reference.

(from another thread here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/carb-cooling-fan-relay-question-with-video.1330617/)

some more useful pics of how roasted the wire to sensor can look from here the sensor on the carb 85 fj60 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-sensor-on-the-carb-85-fj60.235268/

and here is a pic from link #1 at the top of the carb sensor on a nice clean intake (really belongs up there, but max attachments hoses me)

and a small photo of the sensor on the engine (from the link at the bottom with the relay in the kick panel)

This appears to be photos of the carb fan relay, on the driver's kick panel? I can't tell exactly from the photos

Carb Cooling Fan info.

forum.ih8mud.com

I think this is all the pieces I need, to understand it, and after making this post I think I have my head wrapped around it (but I'm super brain-fried today)

I'm rearranging the photos to make a tiny bit more sense, so some of the photos are not next to the links in the text. I wish I could organize this all better and have it in one place, but the limit hampers me. So Sorry for any who follow for it being all out of order and chaotic

Any Errors are Mine and any actual information is 100% from others in the threads linked, I'm just wrapping my head around it by creating this post)

Okay, gonna take all this info to the truck and see if it makes sense.

Thanks,

Cal/Eric-

 

[caladin]

One of the posts mentions that you can replace the OEM temp sensor with this one

I lost the link and I tried but I'm way too brain-fried to find it... ATM, sorry to OP of info.


found this image on the link above from the wiring diagram, I was going over everything again and this time it made sense... In a perfect world it would be right below the wiring diagram. it shows the relay and the controller (timer/computer)

this aparently is on the PASSENGER kick panel, not the drivers

#6 carb cooling fan relay, Part number Part No.: 90987-02004, is available, its less than $10 on Toyota Parts deal before shipping.

Link to party on TPD

and a pic of matts reproduction of the wire from the sensor to the harness here :
(No idea if CruiserMatt still has it, I'm not that far along yet, here is his link, he's been great to me every time I've dealt with him, but some folks have complaints so YMMV , VintageTeqParts.com Home Page – VintageTEqParts.com - https://vintageteqparts.com/ )

turn out the gey metal cooling fan controllers are from an FJ40, they look like this, in case you get confused like I was.

some what useful diagram shows the parts of the fan unit, including motor and vent to pull fresh air from fender, as the air by the fan is pretty hot. I think when i measured the fender by the fan with my laser thermometer it was 135, at the metal, and way hotter closer to the manifold, i think 400f on the exhaust manifold.

 

[caladin]

Sorry as I go through closing all my tabs, I keep finding more info

here are 2 flavors of the actual "all in one" diagram I was hunting for in the top post, it's apparently from the haynes manual for the FJ 40, but I think it's good for a fj60

(which is weird because I searched the Haynes manual index in 2 versions before starting this thread, but hey I'm brain fried AF)
Link to thread

testing procedure from FMS for Relay system (ground wire to sensor) and sensor

I finally found my FSM, but it does not have this section, it only goes up to 14, it's the brown one with the 1980 date on the cover.
What date should the later one with this section have on the cover? All I see on EBAY are more of the 1980 dated that end on section 14.

 

[caladin]

Dome light is on, so that fuse is good.
Car starts so ign fuse is good.

Power+ground straight to fan plug, and it blows.

Temp sender blue wire broken after connector before temp sensor , ground it no fan.

Broke on other end trying to disconnect plug, wires and plug extra toasty, but I could see blue color at harness end of wire.

spliced a wire to end, ground that and still no fan.

So it's the relay or the computer/controller.
Check that tomorrow.

 

[caladin]

Ordered parts to replace the wires to the sensor

This is a fiberglass reinforced wire that good up to 200c (and can operate at 200f )
I dug down into high-heat wires, and this is not the best mica-infused wire, but it's near the top, cheap, and easy to get.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B7B8Y6WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Because I'm paranoid, I got some 1/4" fiberglass heat sheathing to go over it, it's not white like the original Toyota, but it's easy to get and is cheap insurance.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZF8957W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I'm just going to pop the plastic insulation off a ring terminal I already have. For now, I'm going to use a spade terminal until I figure out how to take the Toyota connector apart and can wire it back into place.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Dome light is on, so that fuse is good.
Car starts so ign fuse is good.

Power+ground straight to fan plug, and it blows.

Temp sender blue wire broken after connector before temp sensor , ground it no fan.

Broke on other end trying to disconnect plug, wires and plug extra toasty, but I could see blue color at harness end of wire.
View attachment 3635244

spliced a wire to end, ground that and still no fan.

So it's the relay or the computer/controller.
Check that tomorrow.

- here is the main issue

TOYOTA used at least 5-6 different connector vacations as time went on all that wat to 1990 FJ62 ,

then you have a FJ40 , BJ40 , FJ60. , FJ62 , HJ BJ60 ,

all having 12v and 24V , and different lengths fender to the senders on various places on mounting & routing brackets ,

i would say , it RIVALS , the FUSIBLE LINKS topic in scale only ...........!!







- now the good newz for you ....
i have 100% of all the OEM TOYOTA Japan Spec. parts / supplies ......

shielded wire , fire loom , stainless rings , etc , ect ...



- the only thing i need is a JIG , Pattern , or your old one ...


i have NEVER once made the same 2 of these ., ever ... ?

- now that is DAM ODD indeed ,,,



i have hand made to order , at least close to apprx. 32ish to maybe 48ish since starting to get into these more then the average ....

vintageTEqelectrical " professional mechanical artist " .

- only Master @Coolerman my post T-TEN apprentice i am , would know more here indeed

.

.



/

3


,

 

[caladin]

Thanks Matt!

I'm assuming the good news is you still have it in stock with the square connector? Do you sell the other side of that connector?

Do you have a link? I have the hardest time finding stuff on your website. I just searched and failed to find it.

Barring that, do you have the Toyota single wire round connectors in stock, I bet putting a new plug together will be easier than messing with that old toasty plug. I bet it's as brittle as the wires.

 

[caladin]

- here is the main issue

TOYOTA used at least 5-6 different connector vacations as time went on all that wat to 1990 FJ62 ,

then you have a FJ40 , BJ40 , FJ60. , FJ62 , HJ BJ60 ,

all having 12v and 24V , and different lengths fender to the senders on various places on mounting & routing brackets ,

i would say , it RIVALS , the FUSIBLE LINKS topic in scale only ...........!!







- now the good newz for you ....
i have 100% of all the OEM TOYOTA Japan Spec. parts / supplies ......

shielded wire , fire loom , stainless rings , etc , ect ...



- the only thing i need is a JIG , Pattern , or your old one ...


i have NEVER once made the same 2 of these ., ever ... ?

- now that is DAM ODD indeed ,,,



i have hand made to order , at least close to apprx. 32ish to maybe 48ish since starting to get into these more then the average ....

vintageTEqelectrical " professional mechanical artist " .

- only Master @Coolerman my post T-TEN apprentice i am , would know more here indeed

.
View attachment 3635627


.



/
View attachment 3635622

3


,


View attachment 3635625

It kind of fell to pieces, not enough to pattern off.... I'll see if I can get measurements, I'd need 3-6" of blue, the the round green single wire connector in your last image then the heat proof wire with sleeve to ring terminal, what I have now is just a bodge with spade terminals... Oem water proof would be way better

 

[caladin]

I left the blue wire grounded last night after I was done testing, as the relay controller was testing bad, even when I injected ground directly into it...

But when I drove it today, the carb colling fan came on till I pulled the ground off... Is there anything inside the controller I can clean or tighten?

Any one have pics of the inside of one? I think I saw that in one of the threads, I'll have to go digging for it.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I left the blue wire grounded last night after I was done testing, as the relay controller was testing bad, even when I injected ground directly into it...

But when I drove it today, the carb colling fan came on till I pulled the ground off... Is there anything inside the controller I can clean or tighten?

Any one have pics of the inside of one? I think I saw that in one of the threads, I'll have to go digging for it.

As I mention above ..

I do have all the various OEM harness side connector plugs ..

All the various device side ones too …

In most cases the oem little brass NipponDenso sensor has a ceramic center and a stainless steel ultra fine unicorn thread pitch ..

So I use a stainless JIS ring terminal on out to your existing /. Intact harness side connector plug you have in-place now …

But ..

I see many of these exact same fan switch sensor sub-harnesses were there is ZERO intact harness side plug or wire because it has fatigued off from more then a 1/3 of a century now bumping up Ave down , so the end of the correct Color coded tracer stripe wire needs to be found and the end slipped out of the Harness a bit to hook up my made to order based on what you have going on exactly repair sub harness ..

- now …

- have you correctly identified the harness side connector plug I need to start form and work to your little brass sensors male stainless stud I go over Above ??

- if so I next need a exact length between the 2 in metric length posted here ..,

- you do not have to use the green square oem yazaki plugs connectors above ….

- we use the correct OEM ones you all ready have in place now

The idea here is we DO NOT cut your wires / = plug and play ..

The 40 and 55 are different lengths

Different years of both have the brass sensor located in various different mounting locations as the modie years roll on ..

We have the FJ60 2F. and a 3F carb set ups

All are unique hence made to order , perfectly by the FSM correct to what ever form you have intact now …


- now …that is alot of tech words to say I need photos below / several and the metric length ..

Thanks ..

 

[caladin]

Matt:

My existing wire is broken on both sides of the connector, the connector is the one shown in post 5, and is no longer connected at all to either end.
It was initially broken on the sensor side of the round plug, but when I tried to unplug the connector to test it, the wire also broke off of the harness side of the plug.

Do you also sell it with a replacement sensor? That is what it sounds like in your last post.

Question for the whole crew:

In some posts they say that just hooking the sensor wire to ground is a test, in others they say it's a good solution to the problem of a bad sensor..
In others they say it will make the fan run forever.

When the controller senses ground from the sensor, does it turn the fan on, until the sensor cools off and stops sending ground, or does it just run a timer and ignore the sensor. The first makes most sense to me, but different people threads say different things.

Operating on the assumption the fan runs as long as it's provided ground by the temp switch. But I wanted to be sure.
In essence the controller is just a latching relay that latches itself when ign turn from on to off, then turns itself off when there is no ground right?

 

[OSS]

As I understand it, the carb cooling fan brain box uses both the temperature sensor signal (hot grounds it, cold breaks it) and it has a timer function too.
When everything is working as it should, the carb fan will run until the sensor cools down enough to break the circuit. That time span is variable depending on how hot it is.
It may be that the timer function puts an end the the fan running after 30 minutes no matter what.
I never timed mine since it always seemed to work automatically just fine.
Just grounding the sensor wire will make the fan run 30 minutes after the ignition is shut off no matter how cold it is - which kind of sucks. Every time you turn the key on then off, the fan runs 30 minutes. That blows.

A better workaround for a screwed up carb fan circuit is to just install a mechanical timer switch that you can get at any hardware store. When engine turns off (when hot) just crank the knob to 30 minutes or whatever and it’ll shut off when it runs down.

 

[caladin]

Thanks for taking the time to explain it.

I hooked it all back up using the wire I built and it seems to be working, I'll probably take the controller apart when the one I ordered gets here. since it started working spontaneously when it got hot, I'm assuming it has a loose connector that I fixed taking it on and off, or heat fixed. Also going to check for cracked solder joints and re flow those.

Hopefully it will be reliable after that. If not I have a spare.

Just to add info for those who follow, the nut for the ring terminal stud was m7, so my best guess for a stud size to use to buy the correct high heat rated ring terminals is #8 stud(M4 JIS).

Have not found a source for SS ones, so I'm getting chromed steel as I can find it on amazon.

I'll probably replace it with one of Matt's, just to go back to the OEM controller, but this works for now, till I get all the bugs out.