Carb Cooling Fan info.

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soggy60 said:
There's two 'relays' !

One - behind passanger side kick panel; senses copnditions at sensor,
controls another relay (that powers fan), has timing circuits etc.
All this stuff is in a black box, second up from bottom of stack.
(bottom one has , umm had, that damn little beeping thing...key & seat belt alarm)

The 'another relay' is behind drivers kick panel, little 'can' relay
actually controls (on - off) volts for fan motor. activated by 'black box' noted above.
Click to expand...

How do you test these relays?
My fan is not working.
I took the thermo sensor (resistor) wire apart, cleaned it up, and also tried grounding it to the frame. Still not working.
Took the fan out, dissasembled the blower, and checked it. Runs normal with 12 volt power supply. The housing was clean- no debris.
The fan ran good with direct 12V power once I reinstalled it, but still not working after driving (and it is hot enough here for it to work).

I checked the voltage at the 2-wire green plug to the fan after driving- 0 volts. I assume one of the relays is not working, but don't know where they are or how to test them.

Anyone have pics of their location? My 60 has been noticeably more difficult to start since the fan quit working recently.

Thanks.
 
Here's the pictures of my kick panels. Does anyone know which of these relays control the carb cooling fan, and how to test them?

Driverssidekickpanel.jpg


PassengerSideKickpanel.jpg
 
carb cooling fan sensor location

Here is the location of the carb cooling fan sensor. It is located off the intake manifold on a bracket that runs into the PCV valve. Circled in red.
engine pic.webp
 
jasheehan said:
Here is the location of the carb cooling fan sensor. It is located off the intake manifold on a bracket that runs into the PCV valve. Circled in red.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Jasheehan, but I already took that sensor apart, cleaned it up, and even tried unplugging and grounding the yellow wire. The fan still did not work. I checked voltage at the green plug that goes into the fan after stopping the truck when the engine was hot- 0 volts.

I suspect it is a sensor or relay in the kick panels, I just don't know how to tell.
 
Alright, here's what I've done:

I removed the black carb cooling fan control box under the PS kick panel. Removed the metal bracket/cover and inspected the electrical panel- everything looks normal.

Next, I removed the relay from under the DS kick panel. I checked for continuity across the terminals, and there was none. I supplied power to the 1 and 2 terminals, then the 3 and 4 terminals by connecting it to the battery- nothing seemed to happen. Does this mean it isn't working?

I have searched ad nauseum for relay testing instructions to no avail. How can I confirm the relay isn't working?

BTW- the relay is silver, looks like a headlight flasher, has 4 prongs, and says "12V 22A 3G05 Relay M4 90987-02004 056700-4810, ND made in Japan."
 
I searched on toyotapartscheap.com the part numbers shown above, and there was no matching part available. Is this part still available?
 
Thanks, Valdriz and Ducks.

I had already PM'ed him when you posted. Here's the new part number from CDan:

Replaced by 90987-02004-83, list $11.84, net $8.88.

Coincidentally, after I posted this, I had taken the relay out, put it back in, and now the cooling fan is working- quiet and smooth as ever. I don't know how to explain it.

For reference- when the fan quit working as many others mentioned, my cruiser would run poorly for a few minutes after I started it. I think the vapor lock issue is a real problem.
 
hank14 said:
Thanks, Jasheehan, but I already took that sensor apart, cleaned it up, and even tried unplugging and grounding the yellow wire. The fan still did not work. I checked voltage at the green plug that goes into the fan after stopping the truck when the engine was hot- 0 volts.

I suspect it is a sensor or relay in the kick panels, I just don't know how to tell.
Click to expand...

Do the 60s have the 5A inline fuse from the timer relay to the fan?

That's the other usual source of trouble, easily fixed, once you know about it...

:)
 
hank14 said:
Thanks, Valdriz and Ducks.

I had already PM'ed him when you posted. Here's the new part number from CDan:

Replaced by 90987-02004-83, list $11.84, net $8.88.

Coincidentally, after I posted this, I had taken the relay out, put it back in, and now the cooling fan is working- quiet and smooth as ever. I don't know how to explain it.

For reference- when the fan quit working as many others mentioned, my cruiser would run poorly for a few minutes after I started it. I think the vapor lock issue is a real problem.
Click to expand...

Fascinating update- my fan quit working again. I couldn't figure it out- I could hear the relay kick on and off when I would unplug and plug it after driving to normal temps. I also was getting 12 volts of power at the plug in for the fan.

So...I tool the fan out and tested it by direct wiring it to the battery- it would work off and on, like a short.

Here's the great thing- I decided to take it apart, and found a lot of black "soot"-like powder inside the motor. I used a can of CRC Electrical Motor Cleaner (spray) to spray it out, cleaned it up, and it works like new again.

Moral of the story- Most of the time it's the 99.5% problem, but sometimes it's the odd 0.5% problem.

I was just glad the motor could be disasembled.:cheers:
 
OK so I am trying to get my carb fan running on my 85 FJ60 so that I can get rid of the hard starts when it the engine gets warm. Anyway, I read through this and other threads on the carb fan wire problem. Sure enough no wire on mine, so I just put a 16 gauge wire on the sensor end and trying to determine where to connect this on the carb fan side.

Can anyone clarify that for me?

If I wanted to forgoe the sensor and just ground the Carb fan what wire do I ground then?

Thanks. I am new to cruisers and I am trying to learn all the ins and outs of this 2F engine.
 
At the red arrow - it's the blue wire that's spliced (badly) to the black w/red stripe. Not me, PO -- I'm in the process of fixing it.

The connector to the right is from the top of the Brake Master Cylinder, as reference.
wire0001.webp
 
Much thanks Spike strip. I have it grounded right now, just to make sure the fan works, and it sure does. I guess I will wire it to the old sensor since i already went to the trouble of wiring that side of it.

Hopefully this takes care of the hot start issues.

Thanks again for the fast picture.

:beer:
 
No prob. Glad to help. All those sensor leads get fried, so if you're going to wire it to the sensor, insulate it somehow, or tie it up out of the way of hot things...

Alternately, some people who by-pass the sensor, wire in a switch so they can control how long the fan runs, if you don't want to let it go on for 30 mins.

Pete, are you getting the hard starts in this (Winter) weather ? Just curious.

S.
 
FJ40Jim said:
On the FJ60, the cooling fan power is from the dome light fuse.
They got rid of the secret hidden fuse!:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Jim saves the day for me, over a year later!
 
On my 60 the fan works well...But after my desmog the fan runs for a much shorter time. It's amazing how much latent heat is trapped by all the smog EQ.


Doug
 
also need help with the carb fan. at the sensor where does the wire go, my sensor has a broken off piece of wire and i cannot trace it back to anyplace and i dont see a loose wire hanging out?

or can i just splice into the blue and red/black and gound it to make it run for the 30min. interval?
 
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